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Dave Armour

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Posts posted by Dave Armour

  1. Newest one off the bench. Small (4 3/4” blade) fighter. Stainless San Mai (304/W2) blade, Damascus guard, & stabilized buckeye burl handle.  San Mai has become my favorite technique. Stainless is a new attempt one for me, but won’t be the last. Thanks for looking. 
     

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  2. 52 minutes ago, Bob Ouellette said:

    Did you do any forging after you welded it or is it strictly stock removal after that?

    I drew out the point and tang somewhat. More to make sure the billet is solid rather than forging to any particular shape. I didn’t do any forging on the bevels. 

    • Thanks 1
  3. billyO-tig would work better, but I just have a cheap wire welder. One of the videos talked about problems with the welds because of the copper. So I would make sure the copper is slightly narrower than the steel not sticking out of the edges. 

  4. 24 minutes ago, billyO said:

    Looks good.  I'd like to learn how to add copper into my forge welding. 

    Is that some nickel/copper on the edge towards the tip, though?  

    There’s a couple YouTube videos (they call it CuMai)that explain it well. Basically the top workable fusing temp of copper is right at the bottom temp for bonding nickel. Pretty straightforward but tricky to control the temp. I went to welding the seems closed like you would with stainless San Mai. That way you don’t have molten copper flying if you overshoot the heat.  Yep- there is one spot where there is nickel on the edge. I’m keeping this one for me, so I’ll live with it till it annoys me to the point I regrind to fix it. 

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  5. Latest one of the bench. 5” recurve skinner. Blade is Go Mai mild steel outside/W2 core/nickel & copper in between. Wrought iron guard with stabilized claro walnut. As I play with adding nickel and/or copper to the mix I’m coming to realize I like one or the other. If I mix both it just looks “off”. Thanks for looking. 
     

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  6. Latest one I wrapped up. One of my finds when i remodeled my shop was a 3’ bar of 3/4” 52100. This is a 4” utility out of that bar. Guard is low layer Damascus and the handle is stabilized banksia pod with black & silver pearl resins. Thanks for looking. 
     

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    • Like 7
  7. Wrapping up a last minute Christmas gift for my wife. 7” blade length.  200 layer ladder pattern 1095/15n20 with nickel silver hardware & some stabilized coral she picked out for me at a show years ago I never found a project for. Just waiting on the sheath to dry before wrapping up. First attempt at stamping leather on the sheath. It was semi successful, but I still hate leather work.  Thanks for looking. 
     

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  8. 3 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

    Definitely an alignment issue, as in the small wheel axle is not parallel with the belt under tension.  How's the tracking?   I'm going to guess that it was fiddly when you first built it, but now holds pretty steady once the small wheel wore in?  

    It was never really touchy tracking wise, but it definitely is less sensitive than it was. I’ll recheck things. Thanks

  9. Built a 2x72 grinder a couple years ago. I just noticed that the contact wheels are wearing unevenly. The top wheel (3” diameter) is the worst. It is basically square for the first inch. Then it has worn down just over 1/8”. The bottom wheel (8”) is about half of that. The wear is on side closer to the frame. Trying to figure out the cause. I will say due to work picking up I’ve ground more in the last 4 months than I did probably in the previous year+. Attaching a couple of pics. 

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  10. 15 hours ago, Garry Keown said:

    Mixed reaction when I looked at them.I really liked everything except the length of the guard. I do know that many like the security of the long guard (and these are nicely done) but I have had  instances  many years ago where a long guard just got in the way and in particular on EDC or utility knives I have found that (for me personally) a guard that extends below the edge of the blade is of limited benefit if any from the shorter version. Personal preference only.

    I can see that point. These were to a client’s specs. Thanks. 

  11. Small tomahawk I’m wrapping up. Just needs a few more coats of tru oil. Mild steel & 80crv2. Curly maple handle. 2” edge & 13 1/2” overall.  Need to make some kind of edge protector or belt sheath for it but am drawing a blank. Any suggestions?  Thanks for looking. 
     

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    • Like 2
  12. I recently redid my shop (insulate, drywall, new cabinets) and cleaned out the “why do I have this?” piles. One of the things I found was a 20 lb box of High Temp Tool’s low temp salts from when I thought about building a salt tank setup. I have no use for them but don’t want to seek them if they are no longer good. They’ve been in a plastic bag inside a cardboard box. Are they still usuable?

  13. 8 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said:

    That is interesting, would you mind showing the board you start with?

    It’s 4/4 thickness by 5.25” wide. It’s actually a little lighter color than the picture makes it look like. 

     

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  14. 8 hours ago, billyO said:

    Hempwood?  Never heard of it, but I like it.

    It’s a company out of TN or KY ( I forget). It is compressed industrial hemp fibers. I’m playing with my first board of it. It really needs stabilized before use as a handle, but I’m liking it. 

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  15. Latest one off my bench. 4 1/2” O1 utility with a bronze guard. Handle is dyed & stabilized Hempwood. I don’t do a lot of mirror finishes, but decided to buff this one out.  Thanks for looking. 
     

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  16. Rejoining back into the internet world and getting back into the forums. Thought I’d post a pic of one of my newer ones.  Set of a small ( 6 1/2”) fighter and one of my Squirrel Axes with a 2” edge. Both are are made from 52100. Handle on the axe is carbon fiber with g10 & fiber spacers. Knife handle is carbon fiber, micarta, & g10 with blued steel guard & pin. Thanks for looking. 

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  17. Love the salted maple,just not a big fan of the handle shape.Not enough curves for my tatse.

    I can see that. This one I let the figure of the wood dictate the shape since I wanted the snake-like appearance of the lighter section.

    • Like 1
  18. Has anyone seen the Davinci cam/ helve hammer videos on YouTube? There's a couple out there: one with a wood frame and a multi part video on one with a steel frame. I'm kind of at that point where I don't need a power hammer but it would be handy to have a small one. Our local welding shop has a 25 lb LG, and it's really overkill for me. Has anyone ever used or seen one? The ones online are kind of thrown together, but I was thinking one made with changeable dies would be faster without taking up a huge amount of space.

     

    Thanks

     

    Dave

  19. This is a simple 4" hunter I made for Blade- this knife I'm surprised made it home. It was one of the most handled piece on the table. 1084 steel with a really cool piece of stablized spalted maple and a 1084/15n20 guard. Really light for its size. The short secondary temper line/ point is a lot brighter than the main temper line right above it. Never could get a good shot that showed it. Thanks for looking

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