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tell

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Everything posted by tell

  1. a thing the guys faild to mention and i think is very important when the wife is a bit mad at you you can always Cook your own fish and chips or burger in the forge area tell
  2. firstly japanes blades are two type's of steel hard outer skin soft pliable inner core forge into one blade lenth wise then the lower portion of the blade is hardend to get the cutting edge, the Hamon denotes the transition between the hard cutting edge the softer upper portion of the blade ,also if the whole blade were hardend it would snap from stress , or worse fail in battle .the soft inner core is even softer for flexability . in use but in essence the hamon is cosmetic off shoot of this prosess that the polisher exploites when polishing the blade , and bring out more charecture in the blade mainly for art lovers you can find all the tec term's elswere in this forum for simplicity i used laymans terms above hope this helps
  3. G day Anaman send me an email mate ill see if i can help im in brisbane PM SENT TELL
  4. stuff in aussie is sold in metric and at he's age he would only work in metric feet and inches has be out of date for yrs in aussie mate
  5. the place i think you mean is PERTH WA only 4,500 klm away from NSW
  6. Yes mate he is pulling your leg its a typicle tradesman to apprentice joke , like a carpenter sending his apprentice out for a lefthanded hammer or lead tack's or a glass hammer eather that or he is a compleat prat tell
  7. Sound's like Mild steel or up to 1040 no good for blades , google sutable steel for welding , but there are different steels for MIG TIG ARC BRAZE some can be miged but not arc welded but it may help wack it with a hammer on edge if its Mild it wont take a lot to dent it, if its carbon steel will dent but not as mutch, or spark test it ,, tutorials are on this forum , hope this helps tell
  8. yes fold lenthways then sideways in alternating pattern remember Tamahagane is softer to work than modern steel and gains strenth as it is worked were our stuff is very dence to start with thers is more like working wrought iron tell
  9. You dont say what steel your useing ?? and the clay is way too thick the blade is cooling to unevenly and not fast enugh the clay is thinner towards the edge and thicker on the upper portion 1/8th and thinner on the spine try warm water approx 70deg tell
  10. tell

    Hamon

    WRONG DONT USE ANY KIND OF ACID IN YOUR CLAY TELL YOUR SO CALLED MASTER TO PULL HIS HEAD IN YOU ONLY USE AN ACID IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE A FALSE HAMON ETCHED LIKE THE CHINESE EBAY JUNK
  11. You think thats frustrating try to buy anything above 1045 in Australia we have to send to the USA and there about as reliable as the bloody iraqi malitia or taliban no chance in hell you may have to go to tool steel the companys in the usa got too greedy , i was quoted US$350 6 lenths 3" x 1/4" x 3ft and $560 shipping to aust ,,, or a engeneering co for off cuts /surplus 1080 your not alone in your frustrations mate a few aussie smiths are in there with you tell
  12. you can use car muffler putty thin out just a bit with water, its totaly heat resistant up to 2,000deg tell
  13. JUST TELL THE SCRAP YARD YOU WORK FOR MYTH BUSTERS AND NEED I BIG CHUNK OF STEEL FOR A SHOW AND YOU WILL MENTION THE YARD ON TV always works tell
  14. i suggest some kind of vibrating table to vibrate the mold or tap it gently this will drive the air to the top depending on your set up ? care must be taket to avoid getting the material on yourself hope this helps , tell .
  15. See if you can stone it out on a flat water stone NOT OIL this will thin the blade out on the heel and tip but bring it out flat , but the ammount of warp i can see in the pic.s i would say go ahead and finnish it , its not that bad then sell it i have seen worse in very expensive Japanese swords and tanto hope this helps you. tell
  16. firstly DO NOT GRIND ,,, USE A WET STONE rubbing the blade on the stone I suggest you look at the way the japanese polishers do it the hamon should show up as you decrease the grit in the stones but vinigar /archers etchant /lemon juice will show were it is there are tutorials on the forum try looking for them tell
  17. in the long run KAOWOOL IS THE LONG TERM SOLUTION it will outlast all the other products buy it from a refactory outlet and ask about the spray on coating use a ordenary spray bottle it mixes with water just cant remember the name of it off hand , the other mixes you will be renewing more offten and end up costing you more hope this helps you can also get a kaoglue to stick it to the side of your forge tell
  18. g day Alan i agree but also he would have been better just doing stock removal and heat and quench in OIL he did not say what meadium he used but i bet it was water but over heating and cold hammering as you said above i try not to work the older stuff to mutch tell
  19. depends what your starting with ? how good you are with a hammer / what tools you posess / have you worked hot steel before / what equipment have you got ie forge / anvil hammers /if the answer is no to these then firstly dont make a chopper start on something small ,its ok to have big idears and ambitions but unless you know at least the bacics then the only thing you will end up with is a big lump of disapointment and a hunk of scrap steel. and a power hammer is something i would say at the stage your at is asking for a disaster, and im guessing by the way you asked the question you are a compleat novice , then all i can say is find a smith to help set you on your way read a lot on this forum etc , good luck remember knowlage is half of doing it right , tell
  20. well your useing rounded dies not flat this has a tendancey to push the steel sideways and i think you may be gripping the billet so tight your actualy twisting it and as you turn it over you doing the same again you have to be very consious of the way you present the steel to the hammer,because the hammer will only exagerate any twist you give the steel , i found i was twisting the billet without even realising it and the hammer only makes it worse try flatter dies and dont hold the steel overly tight but not slack enugh so it can shoot out of your hands it takes practice hope this helps happy birthday tell
  21. dont charge to little or you screw the market for others $25 pr hour is about right but be sure to keep track of all hr's even if you go out to get more materials for the job and traveling expenses ie $30 for gas. etc tell
  22. tell

    1018

    its akin to mild hair clips for the wife or girl friend ha ha ha seriously ya pattern weld as above or hinges for the gate both good options dont go lower than 1045 tell
  23. yup been there done that right on the shnoz red hot coke pinocio move over ,, and scale off the steel right down my shirt front off the work on the anvil missed the leather apron totaly thats the day i learnd the watuzi and the twist all in one lesson and got a few small burns on the belly while a mate p+++d himself laughing till one hit him in the ear. happy hopping everyone if you cant laugh ot your stuff ups somebody may whant to lets post as many funnys as we can tell
  24. forge and fold a few times it cannot be hardend ie quenched it looks like strands of spaggeti when forged and folded , use borax to weld you can etch to check the pattern but clean up well , then a good carnubia wax on the finished article this will preserve it hope this helps tell
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