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tell

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Everything posted by tell

  1. not loco just smith posessed ha ha , even tho you wellded the pices together the still retain there individual grain , and yes there would be a pattern for multiple foldings lenth wize & widthwize. just vary the folding between lenth and width to get a more interesting pattern, then draw out lenth wize and twist fold again weld and draw and twist the opposit way then make your blade /axe what ever and you have a damascus blade easy , this way more folds and twists you have Burl pattern just dont go crazy with the folds and twists . when you flattern for a fold clean and
  2. No you would only be compounding the situation by coating it with a pickeling agent i got a small hand held sandbasting gun like a spray gun got it from an auto store ,, workd on about 50 psi up . use river sand with no salt in it blast it blow it off and re weld you can also use ulmanite black crushed slag even old clean iron filings hope this helps tell
  3. it was the rairoad spike its spring steel and will not take the heat wrought will try 1050 next time and yes a gas forge will melt steel like butter you have to regulate it i do it by the coulour of the steel easy when you get your heat chart up on the wall and your eye in or get a temp regulator hope this helps tell
  4. tell

    Help!!

    it was too brittle( quench temp to high ) medium to cold ) 2 hrs in your oven at 250 to draw it back the second with the blue bit had a crack to start with try warming the quench medium just forge and normalize air cool then heat to non mag pull out count to 4 then quench fully adjitating lenthwize then do the oven as above hope this helps tell
  5. yes i have one they we normaly known as dead drop anvils because the hammer blow was a dead stop no bounce i find it usefull for putting in the bevel's on japanese blades were more controle is needed to avoid the item or hammer bouncing around but if you miss and hit the face yes it will mark like most anvils but for a first time anvil they are very forgiving to the novice bladesmith trying to get the hammering side up to scrach go for it tell
  6. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I find a shed 22ft long 12ft wide 7ft high with a side door one end and tilt door the other will give you all the room you need look around for second hand even Ebay you need a 5inch slab dont forget to set your anvil stump in before concreat unless you whant it mobile . tell
  7. Firstly you have to make and lose fit all hilt guard etc alow for the ammount you are going to lose in polishing and balence the blade approx 3 to 4 inch forward of the cross guard if one is going to be fitted thats the easyest way then add or remove material from hilt polish blade ect till happy hope this helps tell
  8. FIRE BRICK'S CHEAPER IN THE LONG RUN AND NOT AS MESSY AND SAVES PINCHING IT OFF THE CAT LOL, TELL
  9. Firstly it will have a soft center seeing it has no back secondly yes coat with refactory morter not refactory cement a common mix up somthing like satanite i beleive you call it in the states wash an degrease the blade realy well and make sure you have good file marks for it to stick to make it about 1/8 or a touch more thick when applying trying to get it even warm the water to approx 55deg hope this helps greg terry
  10. tell

    Been thinkin

    maybe we could help but you never said what kind of commpressor petrol /elec psi output a pic may help or what the problem was could be a faulty shut off valve /idle valve or not sufficient air output or its just plain rat shit ? terry
  11. you could use a cheap hand blender set on low some of the cheapy shops or pawn shops may have one for a few bucks make up a fitting to hook onto your quench tank too easy mate hope this helps tell
  12. oh yes MY Daughter works in child care so we get a nice selection of germs to pick from seeing she brings them all home from the beautiful children at the child care center , who's parents allow them to attend and share the germs with everyone very considrate folks so i sympathys with you mate anyhoo have a good holyday best wishes to you and yours tell
  13. Firstly the first myth it is brass or copper that stuffs the forge for welding steel not bronze lesson 1 learn the facts on bronze before busting and yes Bronze will not explode in water as it contains lead and zink and cools and solidifies very fast as above lesson 1 again yup a mandril will make life easyer lesson learnd BUSTED LOL, ON a lighter note dont apply for a job on mythbusters . good to have a laugh mate, no offece ment tell
  14. Just drop the thing in the oil leave till cold no problems the 30sec is mostley for water quench tell
  15. Iwould be useing KAOWOOL you can buy a spray on hardener then coat with satanite , SATANITE on its own it will crack and fall off , put fire bricks in the bottom to protect against the flux you may use in forge welding .. hope this helps PS kaowool has a glue you can use to stick it inplace " KAOWOOL COMES IN 2" 1" THICKNESES TELL
  16. i use a dremal with burrs and needle files not even close to wood carving and be sure to wear a mask it can be burned with a small soldering iron to add highlights hope this helps tell
  17. my understanding of American steel i think this is a Spring steel if it is you will be hard pressed to get a hamon but spring stuff is nearly always oil quenched full temper but hey you can try warm water would maybe not crack it make sure the spine in lightly coverd not thick hope this helps but as i say not up with 5160 in the usa tell
  18. Its a modern day steel thing no two batches are spot on the same Iv even seen it aocour in the same bar buggerd if i know why as its all computor controled / the water temp may be off from one blade to the next or as we say in aussy Murphys law even the japanese smith's only get 3 out of 5 to quench sucsessfully maybe the dreaded fire Kami of the forge as the japanese think but im with you its a pain in the ass tell
  19. Never new brass had Zink in there seeing they are two incompaiable eliments yah a decent fume respirator will give protection double charcoal filters and eye protection with your gloves and leather apron for any splashes oh and good leather boots and long tongs go for it
  20. these were done for me by a guy here in australia he taught himself he will not use anything mechanicl he only uses hand engravers the guy suffers from MS so if he can do it so can you with time and paitence he belives the gravers you buy are cheating and take away the real artistry of hand engraving he inlay's the gold / silver /copper the deatail is amazing enjoy tell
  21. WELL NOT SURE IF THIS IS THE RIGHT PLACE ? MOVE IF NOT PLEASE i have a good friend who used to engrave guns here in Australia he hand engraves he will not use a machine he also inlays copper /brass /gold /silver etc he has recently got into doing japanese fittings has any body out there got any idear just what the going price of sutch items would be he has made these for me personaly , im trying to convince him to do them for sale . any help is appreciated tell
  22. even the japanese smiths sometimes have to re do the blade i think you have about three chances then its no good to try again i have done a blade twice with no ill effects and got a better hamon but it sounds like you have an uneven heat problem id sort that out first hope this helps , tell
  23. forge looks great mate i would use a leaf blower one with speed control I use a car heater blower run on a battery charger i also got the 3 speed control's from the car old ford's had a fan enclosed in a housing ready made to stick on the forge datsun /toyota /all good fans and get to welding heat no problems and beaing 12v you just need a Battery a deep cycle one for portability easy,try to get the Rail line used on the docks its got a wider head and the foot is wider too just a tip for you mate , have fun tell
  24. You could try building a small smelter there is a topic on here about smelting and simply melt the iron from the rock but be carefull the rock wont explode IE granet etc sandstone is ok it will crumble and the slag should carry it away leaving the iron smelt hope this helps the only other way is to crush it and use chemicals to seperate it not economical unless doing a ton or more tell
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