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Everything posted by tell

  1. yes price up all the materials time etc then do what the knife guys always do ADD 20% TO THE COST easy and give you bargening room to boot tell
  2. did you get the definate ashi line as for the mune you pile it on thicker so it cools slower hece the curve but you can use whatever fitt's your bill , i just use what the japanese smith told me he used ?? but then as now they all have different methods i myself have used charcoal with good results i did not say it was no good , mearly what they used because it will not burn again like charcoal will no worrys mate do it your way ,thanks chris a good point made about the Mune . tell
  3. Ok a little secret dont use charcoal powder think about it charcoal will still burn therfore transmiting more heat to the part your trying to protect . why the hell do you think the japanese use burnt rice straw /in our case hay /straw because when burnt first it becomes inert and will not cause the Satanite to shrink or fall off i have used this for god knows how long since learning from a Japanese smith so if your after a good hamon mix 3/4 straw ash with satanite make a demarcation line along the blade then add more satanite to bring the mix to half and half fill in the
  4. Ok here goes i finaly got a new putor and camera so heres a spark test so you tell me ha ha this pic may be better to see i have pounds of this stuff ha ha ha tell
  5. I think the furnce was not running hot enugh i did not get a third of the slag in mine i ran it F hot it seperated nicely and i draind it off just before i turnd the blower off virtualy blew the sucker out the bottom im still trying to get my hands on a drop saw to cut the son... but i got on my trip around aussie soon so getting ready for that be away for about 4 to 8 weeks ill try to get it done before i head off guy's cheers tell
  6. Yah mate lesson learnd about bloom size to say its heavy for it's size would be an understatment silver sparkle grain approx the size of a pin head at the higher end then smaller ill try for a pick but im going to have to get a drop saw on this baby as for the furnace no problem making another plenty of clay on our joint i think the advice on dropping it in water was a boo boo im goint to let cool naturaly it should be easyer to smash or cut then but i will try and keep you posted guys thanks again i cleand up the off cuts and crack'd blade tin nicely 1050 1065 107
  7. Well I fired the beast up used a regulated leaf blower ( Ajustable Calmp on the hose ha ha ) but i got a 16lb bloom of silver gray and black bloom now to smash it up now a tap hole in the bottom would be great a taperd bowl check seeing the clay is free just smash it to get the bloom out with the leaf blowere you can make a deeper bowl and bigger bloom stop adding scrap when the stuff bubbles and you cas see it nr the top but tapping the slag is a definate yes tell as you can see the scales whanted to go round again all up good fun th
  8. Fistly thanks for the post I have had a feeling for years and suspected the japanese were making what i call maliable iron drive carbon into it and you have a form of one could say mild steel ( but not as we know it ) the thing we know as high carbon steel has more junk added so in essence they correct term for this would be Maliable iron in billet form add to this the forge folding again in charcoal acording to the book The Craft of the Japanese Sword ,Yoshindo Yoshihara prefers 0.7 % carbon content (page 30 ) over 0.8 it will become brittle but descibes it as i
  9. Yes it will ignite keep the blade moving but also keep it under the oil do not lift it out till its cool dont worry about the oil it will stop burning as the blade cools but protect your hands keep face and body away if the can get burnt i have done Katana in oil with no big problems its just an initial reaction dont try to put it out unless it its realy burning things a wet towel will kill it not dripping water just wet fully cover the tank . bucket make sure the oil covers the blade fully dont use the steel cover as oil vapor can build up and cause a flash explosion tha
  10. tell


    Good score brass and copper are not cheap any more you could make Hibacki too with little effort tell
  11. Yah sure you can cut to size wet it belt the crap out of it with a meat tenderiser till you have a nice patern fitt and glue it a light spray of an off white and a touch of yellow to blend together while wet rub with tooth brush let dry and wrap easy mate not all tsuka were wrapped in same hope this helps tell .
  12. One your setting up for a fire and potental burning pewter all over you the wood will burn so no inlay left 2 it will spit and splutter covering you make a carving of the object then cover in plaster /clay let harden so you have a mold pore pewter into this draw round it on handle then cut out and inlay the pewter carving easy hope this helps tell
  13. None taken mate i took the chart at face value as i said our steel is different here even the spring stuff is 12 something or other i wish the manufacturers would get it together the world over with the designation numbers cheers Alan mate tell
  14. well i bear no responsibility for miss information on the chart seeing as it is an American chart just shows dont belive everything you read from there , i cant use it because it bears no relationship to steels we have here , as the say dont kill the messenger , you guy's know your own steel better than i do . i just thought i was trying to help , but seeing as it just confuses the issue i will not post again , sorry for any inconvinience caused NUFF SAID tell .
  15. quote name='Clint h.' date='Mar 26 2009, 07:36 AM' post='119404'] hey, i saw on a previous post a chart of tool steels and where they are found commonly (drill bits, screwdrivers, files, ect) and i cant find it so does anyone know of a good one online? links or pictures would be great - thanks did you mean the one i posted junkyard steels ? cheers tell
  16. The flats would have been for the retainer pin's or cross pins to stop the lay shaft rotating or end flote movment thats if were correct in asuming they are lay shafts the lenth has me in some what of a quandery , a bit short to be a car gearbox they are normaly approx 9 to 12 inch long to accomodate the gear clusters and transfer gear baulk rings etc , and normaly you have an upper shaft (longer )and a lower shaft (shorter ) the top one is splined were it fits into the eng block through the clutch flex plate to the crank , i suspect your's may be off a ride on mower or a
  17. they call it a Lay shaft mate normaly tool steel high tensile and hardend good for blades but dont forget to aneal before forging to get the origional temper out of it or it will crack if you go right into forging it hope this helps
  18. Drive shafts could be tool steel but most were made of a spring steel there are about 5 different spring steels of varing carbon content more than likley 4140 This is an american list hope it helps tell
  19. I dont know about there but here they normaly have a brand sticker and somtimes the contence of the bar IE high carbon if you can belive the cinese or indian companys strike it with a hammer if it has a ring its carbon steel if its more a dull clunk its more pig iron with steel Ie cast iron with 4% steel to give some strenth the ring test is like the anvill test but not as pronounced a ring cheers tell
  20. you can Quench in oil but the hamon will not have as much activity ay be a safe option till you get to know how the steel moves most of our crowbars in Aussie now come from china or India and are made of scrap steel / iron / mild / so it acts more like cast iron and is verry brittle and normaly shatters on Quench but yours in the states may be ok our government taks cheap crap from anywere , glad you like the blade tell
  21. Yes you can and even a katana just dont make it to thin i use them all the time Quench in warm water NOT COLD about shower temp go for it the 0lder the bar the better , modern stuff is crap .. tell These are before polish sorry there a bit blurred
  22. Try 1050 -1056 -1075 -1095 there are plenty of mob's in the states doing this stuff and just about all take a great Hamon for japanese blades , w2 is now made under the guise of tool steel it just thay have done away with the W1 W2 acronim there were just to many different companys giving it and other steel different names , you may find some steel mob that has off cuts etc scout around , or a company that has some left over from a job cheers tell
  23. Mate there are places on here you can read this stuff,,, for somebody to try to walk you through EVERYTHING you are asking would be a monumental task at best maybe start with building a forge coke / coal /gas you did not say and depends on acsess to said products in your area same with steel / satanite / water stones / walter sorrells has some great vidios /DVD'S on making japanese blades and im sure there are links her to making forges too ya just got to look mate ,,, tips and tricks bloomers and triuphs are all here for the asking have a ball read everything you
  24. Must be Quite a few recipies out there the one i got was supposed to be the one the japanese use for tsuba ?????????? it works for me anyway if any of you use it and its ok then pm me cheers tell a friend of mine did these for me he used to do guns but the ban here on fire arms kinda stuffed him up and the guy Has MS to boot ,
  25. here ya go you should be able to download and print this To_turn_steel_black.doc tell
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