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tell

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Everything posted by tell

  1. Ok firstly you did not say what the blade was japanese or other second are you claying up for a hamon (japanese ) or just a normal through harden japanese you have to clay up and get the blade to none magnetic making sure the whole blade 1 inch into the tang is the same coulor and even heat by moving it backwards and forwards then pull out count 1 and 2 and 3 plunge into tank of luke warm water depending on the steel , but with not having a blower your going to find it hard to get to temp and get it to give an even heat and your clay is going to get rubbed off the blade in the
  2. tell

    Parents

    hi well depending how old you are that would help but take them out ans let them see you at work show then you can be trusted and know what you doing failing that tell em to pull there heads in and this is 2009 not 1800 but beware if you have stuff'd up in the past your screwd tell
  3. Sounds like it was not forge welded in the first place a lot of the old waggon weels were hot wrap'd not welded sort of like coiling paper then the end was forge welded you may have to get it hotter up to a yellow over non mag just before it starts spitting sparks -- clean up realy well get all the crud off get it hot stick Borax or what ever you use and re forge weld fold a few times and weld the stuff will have a grain a bit like spaggetti this is normal hope this helps tell
  4. hi here goes simple way get blade up to shape and fine file ,, stick it in the forge heat till red take it out let cool do this three times clean off scale ,, re heat to bright red keep moving blade through the flame to get even heat ( but not the tang ) test with magnet on end of a lenth of rod ,, when the magnet will not stick then take out plunge into Quench oil of choice edgways down move back and forth not sideways till cool , you should have turnd off the gas forge by this time ,, wipe oil off the blade shove back in cooling forge , keep turning let it stay in there for 5
  5. hi mate well depending on thickness type of blade i would go this way ___________________ 1095 --------------------------- W2 --------------------------- L6 ____________________ 1095 ----------------------------- L6 ----------------------------- W2 ______________________ 1095 THIS IS 7 LAYERS MAKE them 1/4 thick 1.1/2 to 2" wide 9 " long and spottless mig( clamp in vice ) weld together on the ends to stop seperation just a bead on the coners or it contaminates the steel once you have forge welded them useing Borax to weld together , draw out
  6. I agree mate funny what some will belive in thos movies as real fact its calle d poetic licence or in other word's BULLSHIT by ignorant directors and writers same as the last samurai what a lode of crap read as mutch as you can go to sword web sites ( not chinese ) contact smiths most will freely help some are arogant mony grabbing dicks but you'll get there mate keep at it the guys here have a lot of knowlage just keep on asking cheers tell
  7. Depends if you claying for a hamon as in japanese stuff other than that just Quench the whole blade in Oil or water dependin on what steel you used the method you refer to would be an edge Quench were you only immerse the edge not the spine ni on impossible with a double edge hope this helps tell
  8. hi mate the tang is 4 inch from were the hibacki sits against the blade the thicknes would be about 1/4 were the hibacki sits width of blade at same point approx 1 inch depending on style of blade 1 .1/4 is about normal but they were all shapes and sizes i suggest you look at a few sites on Tanto http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/nihonto.htm have a brows here hope this helps tell
  9. I have ground the stuff off but if it is a good Qualaty gal it will have penitrated into the meatal myself i fixed this problem ,I buy some steel and copy /make the part myself i look at it this way if the part was made by a man then it can be made by me give it a go you seem to have the tools on hand what have you got to lose tell
  10. thanks mate i try but it's actualy a NAGAMAKI-NAOSHI A TYPE OF SPEAR that can be mounted as a sword i make odd type blades for collectors that they cant get on the open market , or are only in picture from the musium in japan cheers tell
  11. Thanks for the comment as for the files yah any good file with teeth and bite i file with PFERD OR NICOLSON but in a bit lucky My oldest son owns Queensland Engineering Suplies so i get all my stuff as cheap as lol, file for $10 no matter what cutting disks for $1 each the list is endless , and thats Aust not US , but i think you have to work with what you can get somtimes , and what fitts the pocket for most of us cheers tell here's a couple of mine i do Bowie knife's too thanks for looking
  12. You can get a Marine grade alloy, as there are different alloy's with different properties normaly just plain alloy with steel causes a reaction (over time ) a white poweder will form locking the two together ( a form of DRY acid ) this is why you should never use alloy rivet's on a steel car body ect ( causes a metalergic reaction ) they are for alloy sheets , copper tends to go green but can be cleand so maybe a copper mix as said above is the way to go and cast the parts , or use a hard Bronze ? hope this helps tell
  13. i fitted one of those emergency cutoff valves and got the same results also the regulator has to be the same type as the welders use for propain the regulator has to be a direct connection to the tank if the tank is a small one this could be a pressure flow problem i use a 9kg bottle i tryed a 8kg and it ran out of steam because the forge demand was greater than the botltle could put out , hope this may help cheers tell
  14. for solid handle's i use the drill press drill a hole then get a drill with burs on the edge ( local wood working store ) and move the handle till you hollow it out nr enugh then small file it the rest for japanese two part handle's the old chisle mate or a steady hand and a dremle tool hope this helps tell
  15. I agree i dont like Gal eather but the pipes above dont get hot the flame is created were the stainless flare comes out this is the outer guide pice i was talking about the gal pipe merly transfers the gass to this point and will not get hot enugh to even cause a hassle THANK GOD or it would be out the door faster than a lizzard drinking mate , but a good reminder thanks tell ,
  16. cheers for the info ill see if i can fine any of that typ here in Aust grate info thanks tell
  17. Im not familier with that water heater but ours have a sort of gas ring like on a stove lit by a pilot light as the water is turnd on to keep the water hot as new cold flows in ? i was thinking more the Bar B Q type burner or a prtable camping stove set up so you could be right about your type of RV water heater I made this for a friend the blower parts are water fitting's with a blank off inserted /drilled out and tapped with a 6mm thread screw in two mig tips i use oo6 fit the rest up as seen to tap then to regulator on the propane tank be sure to u
  18. Your spot on mate just ditch the old regulator get a propane welding reg you can even drill out the burning tips or replace with a mig welding tip , and as you pointed out cheap but good ready made burners add the tube and air intake hole good thought mate good for you hope things get a bit warmer at your place its 32deg here stinking hot cheers tell
  19. Whooh mate it was not intended as a personal insult to anyone but if you look at a lot of the reply posts you get a bit uptight at the better off guys thinking EVERYONE is loaded or has money laying around waiting to be thrown at anything , i may have fraised the post wrong if i offended anyone then im truly sorry as Don said were here to try and help i myself am an invalid pensioner and find that i have to invent my way out of problems even tho the world seems to think pensioners are ritch try living on $300 aust a fourtnight mate taint no fun i assure you thanks guy
  20. The links not working ? and the guy said he has limited funds im always amazed how some folk's dont read the posts or dont realise that limited funds or out of work normaly means " hey i aint got no money " so dum ass suggestions like buying a water stone grinder dont cut it , out in the real world fella Please dont asume that everyone out in the forging game has a pocket full of Bucks as this is a stupid and ignorant attitude if this offends you then you should not be answering a Question like this with assinine answers tell
  21. I concure with the above forge the hollow's into the blade first then you may be able to use a half round file to file lenthwise a lot of work but more control over the amount of hollow , or even an old sharpening stone roughd up to a halfe round shape i have used these on japanese blade's i have made and saves throwing them away Recycle them this way cheers and good luck tell
  22. the riccasso was origionaly used like a wedge to hold the blade in the scabbard much like the Hibacki on Japanese blades hence it was thicker than the blade but became more of a decoration my old school chum is the second head Curator of the York arms Musium in England and the info came from him hope this helps cheers tell
  23. your right mate it will work I just forgot about that i tend just to sand the stuff off Quicker than boling the vinegar and messing about waiting overnight time is money so they say , i dont have eather lol, cheers tell
  24. No worrys its a rolling slag part of the normal proccess of producing steel ," ecept stainless " and why its not on the edge is because its sheard from a larger plate / sheet best bet is to sand it off just about all steel strip has this unless its a bright steel and so is perfectly normal if you are forging you will get this again from the heat burning the surface of the steel or if you heat treat your blade it will happen every time hand or belt sander will remove it .. cheers tell
  25. I agree etch with ARCHERS ECHANT ( the stuff they use for circuit boards try Tandy's store or good electrical outlets ) bit i Quench in oil anyway then de stress in the cooling forge till to hot to touch then Quench again cheers tell
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