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Steven Sharpe

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  • Location
    Quebec, Canada
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, hunting/fishing, camping, computer imagery and art in general.

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  1. So i wasn't hallucinating when i saw this !!! lol
  2. In fact, no. I didn't even think on putting a hamon on this blade. No clay and an oil quench, i guess things turned out better than i thought...
  3. Wow ! so elegant yet simple and complex at once... Figure that out... Love the wood color, really makes the blade pattern stand out in all its beauty ! damn that's nice ! i love it
  4. Blade length : 4.7 " Blade width : 1.4 " Thickness : .180 " Handle length (from wood to butt end): 4.7 " Thanks for asking
  5. Hi guys ! Thought i would share these pics... It's been a long time since my last login but it's good to see more and more have join... I have spent the last year getting better acquainted with bladesmithing and spending most of my spare time forging and also remaking a new burner for the forge which took too long to fix... but now it works My first hidden tang knife in life, a trade-off between camp/hunting knife for my next hunting season. The blade is 1095 carbon steel and is a hand rub to a 400 finish (this knife will be used...) so i have no need to get overwhelmed with polishing and buffing except for the guard and butt which are 316 stainless steel. The handle is Jatoba (Bresilian Cheerywood) and although it is a hardwood i found it is rather easy to work...which came handy for the tang hole... Here are a couple of pics from the little project: Making the handle The completed knife To my surprise i was just finishing the hand rub with 400 when light struck at angle on the blade and there it was.... a hamon ? looks like that to me !!!
  6. Here is some other pictures of the same one : Rough grinding (as rough as you can get with a file) is finished and i just did my 3 normalization process !
  7. Hi Matt ! Although i don't spend as much time forging as i would like i have tried and successfully welded twice in this forge. The one time it did not work i had omitted grinding the surfaces of the 2 welded parts (i'll never rush again, through those steps). I had cleaned them roughly with acetone and some sanding but i now know this isn't enough to get a good weld. So the short answer would have to be yes i did twice. And i was much more surprised to see that i got up to welding temp at around 7-9 psi... For the part about the burner running rich i have to agree with you it sometimes does ... i have noticed that filling your propane tanks (i use a 30 pound tank) from the same source is a good idea. I know (i am no propane specialist) but propane is usually a mix of propane and butane (depending on where you are located in the world). I have noticed from trying to fill up from different sources you get different results, even with the same setup without any modification. Give a try for the 0.030 tip. One other thing i learned through reading (Burners for forges, furnaces and kilns by M.Porter) is that getting your tanks completely empty, before refilling, is important. Because of the difference of weight of those 2 (butane and propane) and the mix is different depending on where you get the propane (due to climate and location in the world). if you don't, you end up after 5-8 fill ups with a greater amount of butane or propane which your burner won't like at all. In my case it was a matter of trial and error and time of course. Someone with more knowledge confirm this if i have this mixed up or not. Steven
  8. Hi Matt ! The 3/4" burner is loosely based on The Reil naturally aspirated design. I use a .035" Mig welder tip. I had tried a .023" at first but i wasn't able to get a clean and stable burn and had constant sputtering from it. So i switched to a .035" tip (i gotta find a 0.030" to try it) and my problem was solved and saved a lot of gas. I found that using a bit of teflon tape on the nipple threads (the rest of the gas plumbing uses propane certified sealing compound) solved most of my problems... i had small amounts of propane leaking between the threads and the nipple.... problems solved. Yeah i guess if you have the ceramic wool use it ! The worst part is, i got 40sq. foot of 1" kaowool (almost for free) after this forge was built and i never got around to using it ! Here's a pic of the burner if it can help you ! Steven
  9. Hi Matt ! Thought i would pitch in my 5 cents on this ! Though i have a very limited experience in forge welding and i have done it successfully a couple of times, I use the same forge for welding and for forging ! (i am in need of more space and money... lol). I made this forge from very inexpensive hard firebricks powered by a 3/4" propane burner that i also made, remade and re-remade. As you can see the forge gets to temp very easily (after 5 minutes) at low pressure around 5-8 psi. And you're right about the space thing i don't believe you need a huge forge for welding unless you weld big billets or parts ... And thanks Geoff for the trick about the plate at the bottom ! Getting tired of replacing bricks from being crusted by the melted borax ! Steven
  10. Hi Guys ! thought i'd share those pictures with you bunch of metal addicts ! The first one is a camp knife i am making, directly inspired by M. Neilson's Burlap Camp knife (which is very nice). Made from 5160 and around 10 inches for the blade length. Of course this is still in the rough grinding stage. Not having a belt grinder makes it a little longer to get where you want to. I eliminated a lot of hammer marks that i use to do. Well of course, finding out that i was using a hammer with a handle made for a left hand got me pissed. So i switched to a hammer that one of my friends gave me and put a new handle on it (a right one this time). God what a difference ! This one is being worked on by my friend Bob. He had an old filet knife that really needed to be replaced. Also made from 5160 and he grinded it using a backing board (priceless advices from you guys) and things stayed straight even after heat-treating. Comments more than welcomed ! Steven
  11. Congrats David ! Someone else from Quebec ! That's good to know one more smith in my province ! Steven
  12. Hi Guys ! Donald couldn't be more right about safety : after my first setting hit on my last welding, i had a big blob of melted Borax land on my hand, of course i had neglected to put gloves on. And of course the more you fight to remove it, the more it spreads... That is good and sound advice ! Steven
  13. This is beautiful, slick, simple and yet elegant like all the knives i have seen from you ! No wonder it sold this fast ! Steven
  14. Hi Stephen ! very good for your first forged piece ! My 2 first knives ended up as 4 pieces of steel !!! Very good start !
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