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Steven Sharpe

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Everything posted by Steven Sharpe

  1. So i wasn't hallucinating when i saw this !!! lol
  2. In fact, no. I didn't even think on putting a hamon on this blade. No clay and an oil quench, i guess things turned out better than i thought...
  3. Wow ! so elegant yet simple and complex at once... Figure that out... Love the wood color, really makes the blade pattern stand out in all its beauty ! damn that's nice ! i love it
  4. Blade length : 4.7 " Blade width : 1.4 " Thickness : .180 " Handle length (from wood to butt end): 4.7 " Thanks for asking
  5. Hi guys ! Thought i would share these pics... It's been a long time since my last login but it's good to see more and more have join... I have spent the last year getting better acquainted with bladesmithing and spending most of my spare time forging and also remaking a new burner for the forge which took too long to fix... but now it works My first hidden tang knife in life, a trade-off between camp/hunting knife for my next hunting season. The blade is 1095 carbon steel and is a hand rub to a 400 finish (this knife will be used...) so i have no need to get overwhelmed with
  6. Here is some other pictures of the same one : Rough grinding (as rough as you can get with a file) is finished and i just did my 3 normalization process !
  7. Hi Matt ! Although i don't spend as much time forging as i would like i have tried and successfully welded twice in this forge. The one time it did not work i had omitted grinding the surfaces of the 2 welded parts (i'll never rush again, through those steps). I had cleaned them roughly with acetone and some sanding but i now know this isn't enough to get a good weld. So the short answer would have to be yes i did twice. And i was much more surprised to see that i got up to welding temp at around 7-9 psi... For the part about the burner running rich i have to agree with you it someti
  8. Hi Matt ! The 3/4" burner is loosely based on The Reil naturally aspirated design. I use a .035" Mig welder tip. I had tried a .023" at first but i wasn't able to get a clean and stable burn and had constant sputtering from it. So i switched to a .035" tip (i gotta find a 0.030" to try it) and my problem was solved and saved a lot of gas. I found that using a bit of teflon tape on the nipple threads (the rest of the gas plumbing uses propane certified sealing compound) solved most of my problems... i had small amounts of propane leaking between the threads and the nipple.... problems solve
  9. Hi Matt ! Thought i would pitch in my 5 cents on this ! Though i have a very limited experience in forge welding and i have done it successfully a couple of times, I use the same forge for welding and for forging ! (i am in need of more space and money... lol). I made this forge from very inexpensive hard firebricks powered by a 3/4" propane burner that i also made, remade and re-remade. As you can see the forge gets to temp very easily (after 5 minutes) at low pressure around 5-8 psi. And you're right about the space thing i don't believe you need a huge forge for welding unless you weld bi
  10. Hi Guys ! thought i'd share those pictures with you bunch of metal addicts ! The first one is a camp knife i am making, directly inspired by M. Neilson's Burlap Camp knife (which is very nice). Made from 5160 and around 10 inches for the blade length. Of course this is still in the rough grinding stage. Not having a belt grinder makes it a little longer to get where you want to. I eliminated a lot of hammer marks that i use to do. Well of course, finding out that i was using a hammer with a handle made for a left hand got me pissed. So i switched to a hammer that one of my friends gav
  11. Congrats David ! Someone else from Quebec ! That's good to know one more smith in my province ! Steven
  12. Hi Guys ! Donald couldn't be more right about safety : after my first setting hit on my last welding, i had a big blob of melted Borax land on my hand, of course i had neglected to put gloves on. And of course the more you fight to remove it, the more it spreads... That is good and sound advice ! Steven
  13. This is beautiful, slick, simple and yet elegant like all the knives i have seen from you ! No wonder it sold this fast ! Steven
  14. Hi Stephen ! very good for your first forged piece ! My 2 first knives ended up as 4 pieces of steel !!! Very good start !
  15. Good to know i'm not the only one having to cleanup the forge, once in a while !!! I use off the shelf Borax from Wal-Mart and it puddles the same at the bottom of the forge .... I also use hard firebricks for the forge floor and that stuff sticks !!! Steven
  16. Cool ! it's good to know i'm on the right track ! Hard to know when you've never done it... Thanks for looking guys ! Steven
  17. Hi guys ! here are some pics finally ! This is the small billet that was cut in 3 parts with a cut off saw... I grinded and sanded one of the pieces to get a better look at the welding.... In one the pieces (the actual end of the billet) i can see the 3 welding lines, which probably means it's not completely welded ? This is the third part of the billet still attached to the re-bar, in this one i can't see nothing except a solid piece... What do you guys think, is this welded ? Steven
  18. Hi guys ! could help noticing some nice renderings ! This is something i started a long time ago in 3ds max, a model of a 2002 subaru impreza...
  19. Hi Donald ! I use Adobe Illustrator for all of my drawings or making templates for blades that will be made in a near future ! I tried using Autocad and other CAD softwares but illustrator seems to be the easiest to use for making bezier curves ! autocad is a great software (don't get me wrong) but it seems to be missing tools to create curves that tou are looking for... I've attached a PDF of a drawing i made in Illustrator and converted to pdf for a smaller size ... Santoku.pdf
  20. Thanks Gezell ! That pretty much, sums it up ! Good to know what i should try to weld together ! Now if i can get my hand on 15n20... Steven
  21. Thanks guys for the tips ! What i actually have in stock is 1075 and 1095 in 1 1/4" X 1/4 " and also some 5160 leafsprings ... I will probably try something between those three. I got to get some 15n20 !!! Beau you read my mind, i was actually planning on using 1095 and mild steel or wrought iron (hard to find here!) to make a santoku knife in a 2 layer fashion. High carbon serving as the cutting edge with a chisel grind ... Can't wait to give it a try ! I'll try and take pics this weekend !...
  22. Thanks Adlai ! I can't wait to try it again and this time use the bar to make a knife ! What would be a good contrasting steel to use and which is still not too difficult to weld ! Would 1010/1095 or 1010/1075 be a good combination to get a nice pattern after etching and multiple folds ? I know the low and high carbon steels have different welding temp and might get trickier to weld though... Steven
  23. hi guys ! i made my first try yesterday on forge-welding a billet made out of scrap pieces of steel (don't know what is except that it's low carb...). I made a small billet size: 1" X 3" X 3/16" made of 3 layers... I mig-welded the billet to a re-bar for easier manipulation. I got it up to a cherry-red and put some borax on the layers, sideways, so that the flux would melt and flow between those layers... I got it up to a bright yellow and watched the flux bubbling on it ! I have no pyrometer or anyway of knowing for sure that i am at welding temp... I got it hot as i could and gently m
  24. Hi guys ! i got a question regarding forced air burner ? I use a venturi burner for general forging in my forge, i thought a while about putting the small blower that i had on my charcoal forge... My question is : I use a mig welder tip (0.035") for my gas output in the burner. If i use a blower to attach to the back of the burner, can i still use the same size tip with just less gas pressure or do i have to redo the whole thing to calibrate it for the new air amount coming in ? Of course i will put a restriction on the blower's intake, just like i used to on my charcoal forge, to
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