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Steven Sharpe

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Posts posted by Steven Sharpe

  1. I really like it too. I like Jatoba to work with too. It works easily and takes a nice polish. That looks like a good little user. What are the dimensions?


    Blade length : 4.7 "

    Blade width : 1.4 "

    Thickness : .180 "

    Handle length (from wood to butt end): 4.7 "


    Thanks for asking

  2. Hi guys !


    Thought i would share these pics...

    It's been a long time since my last login but it's good to see more and more have join... I have spent the last year getting better acquainted with bladesmithing and

    spending most of my spare time forging and also remaking a new burner for the forge which took too long to fix... but now it works


    My first hidden tang knife in life, a trade-off between camp/hunting knife for my next hunting season.


    The blade is 1095 carbon steel and is a hand rub to a 400 finish (this knife will be used...) so i have no need to get overwhelmed with

    polishing and buffing except for the guard and butt which are 316 stainless steel. The handle is Jatoba (Bresilian Cheerywood) and although it is a hardwood

    i found it is rather easy to work...which came handy for the tang hole...


    Here are a couple of pics from the little project:


    Making the handle






    The completed knife







    To my surprise i was just finishing the hand rub with 400 when light struck at angle on the blade and there it was.... a hamon ? looks like that to me !!!






  3. Hi Matt !


    Although i don't spend as much time forging as i would like i have tried and successfully welded twice in this forge. The one time it did not work i had omitted grinding the surfaces of the 2 welded parts (i'll never rush again, through those steps). I had cleaned them roughly with acetone and some sanding but i now know this isn't enough to get a good weld. So the short answer would have to be yes i did twice. And i was much more surprised to see that i got up to welding temp at around 7-9 psi...


    For the part about the burner running rich i have to agree with you it sometimes does ... i have noticed that filling your propane tanks (i use a 30 pound tank) from the same source is a good idea. I know (i am no propane specialist) but propane is usually a mix of propane and butane (depending on where you are located in the world). I have noticed from trying to fill up from different sources you get different results, even with the same setup without any modification. Give a try for the 0.030 tip.


    One other thing i learned through reading (Burners for forges, furnaces and kilns by M.Porter) is that getting your tanks completely empty, before refilling, is important. Because of the difference of weight of those 2 (butane and propane) and the mix is different depending on where you get the propane (due to climate and location in the world). if you don't, you end up after 5-8 fill ups with a greater amount of butane or propane which your burner won't like at all.

    In my case it was a matter of trial and error and time of course. Someone with more knowledge confirm this if i have this mixed up or not.



  4. Hi Matt !

    The 3/4" burner is loosely based on The Reil naturally aspirated design.

    I use a .035" Mig welder tip. I had tried a .023" at first but i wasn't able to get a clean and stable burn and had constant sputtering from it. So i switched to a .035" tip (i gotta find a 0.030" to try it) and my problem was solved and saved a lot of gas.

    I found that using a bit of teflon tape on the nipple threads (the rest of the gas plumbing uses propane certified sealing compound) solved most of my problems... i had small amounts of propane leaking between the threads and the nipple.... problems solved.


    Yeah i guess if you have the ceramic wool use it ! The worst part is, i got 40sq. foot of 1" kaowool (almost for free) after this forge was built and i never got around to using it ! Here's a pic of the burner if it can help you !





  5. Hi Matt ! Thought i would pitch in my 5 cents on this !

    Though i have a very limited experience in forge welding and i have done it successfully a couple of times, I use the same forge for welding and for forging ! (i am in need of more space and money... lol). I made this forge from very inexpensive hard firebricks powered by a 3/4" propane burner that i also made, remade and re-remade. As you can see the forge gets to temp very easily (after 5 minutes) at low pressure around 5-8 psi. And you're right about the space thing i don't believe you need a huge forge for welding unless you weld big billets or parts ...

    And thanks Geoff for the trick about the plate at the bottom ! Getting tired of replacing bricks from being crusted by the melted borax !







  6. Hi Guys !

    thought i'd share those pictures with you bunch of metal addicts !


    The first one is a camp knife i am making, directly inspired by M. Neilson's Burlap Camp knife (which is very nice).

    Made from 5160 and around 10 inches for the blade length. Of course this is still in the rough grinding stage. Not having a belt grinder makes it a little longer to get where you want to.

    I eliminated a lot of hammer marks that i use to do. Well of course, finding out that i was using a hammer with a handle made for a left hand got me pissed. So i switched to a hammer that one of my friends gave me and put a new handle on it (a right one this time). God what a difference !




    This one is being worked on by my friend Bob. He had an old filet knife that really needed to be replaced. Also made from 5160 and he grinded it using a backing board (priceless advices from you guys) and things stayed straight even after heat-treating.




    Comments more than welcomed !


  7. Hi Guys !

    Donald couldn't be more right about safety : after my first setting hit on my last welding, i had a big blob of melted Borax land on my hand, of course i had neglected to put gloves on. And of course the more you fight to remove it, the more it spreads... :)


    That is good and sound advice !


  8. Hi guys ! here are some pics finally !


    This is the small billet that was cut in 3 parts with a cut off saw...

    I grinded and sanded one of the pieces to get a better look at the welding....

    In one the pieces (the actual end of the billet) i can see the 3 welding lines, which probably means it's not completely welded ?





    This is the third part of the billet still attached to the re-bar, in this one i can't see nothing except a solid piece...




    What do you guys think, is this welded ?



  9. Hi Donald !

    I use Adobe Illustrator for all of my drawings or making templates for blades that will be made in a near future !

    I tried using Autocad and other CAD softwares but illustrator seems to be the easiest to use for making bezier curves !

    autocad is a great software (don't get me wrong) but it seems to be missing tools to create curves that tou are looking for...


    I've attached a PDF of a drawing i made in Illustrator and converted to pdf for a smaller size ...


  10. Thanks guys for the tips !


    What i actually have in stock is 1075 and 1095 in 1 1/4" X 1/4 " and also some 5160 leafsprings ...

    I will probably try something between those three. I got to get some 15n20 !!!


    Beau you read my mind, i was actually planning on using 1095 and mild steel or wrought iron (hard to find here!) to make a santoku knife in a 2 layer fashion. High carbon serving as the cutting edge with a chisel grind ... Can't wait to give it a try !


    I'll try and take pics this weekend !...

  11. Thanks Adlai !

    I can't wait to try it again and this time use the bar to make a knife !


    What would be a good contrasting steel to use and which is still not too difficult to weld !

    Would 1010/1095 or 1010/1075 be a good combination to get a nice pattern after etching and multiple folds ?


    I know the low and high carbon steels have different welding temp and might get trickier to weld though...



  12. hi guys !

    i made my first try yesterday on forge-welding a billet made out of scrap pieces of steel (don't know what is except that

    it's low carb...). I made a small billet size: 1" X 3" X 3/16" made of 3 layers... I mig-welded the billet to a re-bar for easier

    manipulation. I got it up to a cherry-red and put some borax on the layers, sideways, so that the flux would melt and flow between those layers... I got it up to a bright yellow and watched the flux bubbling on it !

    I have no pyrometer or anyway of knowing for sure that i am at welding temp... I got it hot as i could and gently made

    my first tap to get the flux out from between the layers (and it did)... I practice on the last inch of the billet just to test !


    I've let it cool down and grinded the end of the billet (to check it out) where i made my weld and all i could see was 2 lines

    from where the layers melted ! I tried using a chisel in between the layers and whacked the hell out of it to see if it would split !

    i did not split ! the lines i see are a fraction of the size of an hair ! The pieces felt and acted like it was one steel block and not layers...


    My question is simple : did it weld ? Does anyone have a sure way of knowing if the weld is good ?



  13. Hi guys !


    i got a question regarding forced air burner ? I use a venturi burner for general forging in my forge, i thought a while about putting the small blower that i had on my charcoal forge...

    My question is :

    I use a mig welder tip (0.035") for my gas output in the burner. If i use a blower to attach to the back of the burner, can i still use the same size tip with just less gas pressure or do i have to redo the whole thing to calibrate it for the new air amount coming in ?

    Of course i will put a restriction on the blower's intake, just like i used to on my charcoal forge, to get the amount of air i need to come in with the gas !




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