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Steven Sharpe

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Everything posted by Steven Sharpe

  1. Thanks guys for your comments ! cool to know they're pleasing to look at I was hunting for Moose on a second year try on a new territory... No luck, even the salt and all baits weren't touch all summer long, so moose population ain't big there (last year there)... I'm leaving for deer hunt in 4 days !
  2. That's a very good camera ! Lucky treat it well ! I love the third one, but i fancy B&W to start with ! Very nice
  3. Hi guys ! thought i should share those with you ! Those were taken during my last hunting trip... Hope you enjoy them ! Steven
  4. Hi Terence ! i use a similar setup also with charcoal and i used a blower that was used on an old wood stove, anyway... I made an air-gate on the side blast, because i couldn't use a dimmer (to get wanted flow) which is not good on the kind of motor (shortens motor life fast)... Steven
  5. Welcome Ariel ! my friend found your website a week ago and he freaked out when he saw the ball bearing knife you made and the cable damascus with the handle made from manilla rope .... Those are very impressive ... Having access to 52100 (one of my friend is a machinist in a electric motor repair shop) in almost any size and shape possible i will probably give it a try one day I have a question that you might be able to answer me : Is the inner ring and outer race on a bearing also made from 52100 ? Very impressive work i am riveted ... thanks Steven Sharpe
  6. Hi guys ! regarding tempering in a kitchen oven - I have a propane gas range with convection modes in it ! Would this be good to temper blades ??? provided it will be calibrated (comes with a calibration mode) using an infra-red heat indicator (temp indicator gun) ??? Steven
  7. Wo! i'm freaked out ! Ye fireworks ! Very nice picture !
  8. Thanks Ron ! but due to my forge location (outdoor backyard) i can't use coal because of the heavy smoke and soot that would freak out neighbours... (still have two 45kg bags sealed) so i managed to build a small "Japanese type" forge with firebricks : Modified it from 9 inch wide hearth to a 5,5 inch wide - which cut down a lot on fuel comsumption... and it works very well but still a lot of wasted fuel.
  9. Hi guys ! I have used only lump charcoal to date for the past month (i am new at bladesmithing / blacksmithing) in a firebrick forge that has a 5,5 inch wide hearth and adjustable depth. I does use a lot of charcoal but i am not sure if it is due to the amount of air going in or the size of it. I also made a tight airgate on the side blast and i have a very good control over the amount of air going in... - Which brings me to this question for charcoal users : I made my first knife - small game / paring knife (6 inch blade) from round 1/2 inch round 1045 and it needed around 10 pound of char
  10. Fine looking blade ! The blade shape looks alot like an Alaska Ulu knife used by the natives for skinning and tanning hides. Though the handle is set to be parallel to the blade edge - let me send a pic easier to see ...
  11. After consideration about loss (waste) of fuel i decided making the forge hearth a little narrower from 9" to 5,5" and it will probably help save a lot of fuel for it ! Also i added a air gate on my tuyere to get more control on the quantity of air going into the forge - Coal doesn't need much to get white hot ! Thanks for the tips - very useful Steven
  12. I know what you mean Brian ! i had the same look over here in Canada and also to mention the province i live in has been producing charcoal (hardwood from maple) for the past 300 years. When i ask for charcoal the same thing happens all the time the guy comes back with briquettes. Imagine trying to find blacksmith coal !!! Many BBQ restaurants up here use charcoal for BBQ and bread (some bagels) made in charcoal heated ovens so i got it from a supplier in Montreal at 15 $ (roughly 10$ US) for 100 pound bags and he also carries blacksmith coal - who knew ??? Some people up here need to mak
  13. Hi Jake ! My guess would be to start out with mild carbon (1045-1060) for their ease under the hammer and also inexpensive compared to making a billet with alloys like nickel plates or 15n20. Good fluxing is also very important (but you must know that) ! Send pics if you got them ! Steven
  14. Wo ! this is a very nice axe ! One of my friend would die to see this ! Beautiful, and i love the rough hammer finish :notworthy: Steven
  15. Hi Geoff ! Well, the reason i made it on the ground was to save space a little for first and since this space is granted to me by my folks, i wanted to keep things small, since i'm a beginner at blacksmithing and bladesmithing so i will probably try making a propane forge soon enough... About my anvil it is a 130 lbs. Waterloo foundry (Fonderie Waterloo- french) made from ??? i have no idea but i know it was made here in Waterloo, Quebec (Canada). When i bought it and brought it home i couldn't wait to find that company's phone number and call to ask about fabrication and stuff but i got
  16. Hi Ron ! i haven't forge much with it yet but i know it get's too much air in. So i plan on making a second baffle (on the air output this time) to get the volume of air down a little ! If i stick the bar or too close to the sideblast then i get scaling of course but in the center and on the right section of the forge it's reasonable... also i wet-forge most of the time so it helps a bit. If i reduce the volume of air with another baffle it probably do the trick and reduce those sparky willows also Steven
  17. Hi everyone ! Just tought to post these pictures of the firing test : I lined the part of the tuyere pipe that goes into the forge, with fireclay and fired it up ! I use a small blower 110v app.3000 rpm with a baffle on the intake and even with the baffle closed to max i get a reasonable draft to hold it hot (quite enough). I tested it with 2-3 lbs of charcoal and made a small mound in front of the tuyere and that baby was singing I will move my back firebricks forward and make that fire smaller (for what i need now) and test it this time with a good amount of fuel ... Here are
  18. Hi everyone ! Just tought to post these pictures of the firing test : I lined the part of the tuyere pipe that goes into the forge, with fireclay and fired it up ! I use a small blower 110v app.3000 rpm with a baffle on the intake and even with the baffle closed to max i get a reasonable draft to hold it hot (quite enough). I tested it with 2-3 lbs of charcoal and made a small mound in front of the tuyere and that baby was singing I will move my back firebricks forward and make that fire smaller (for what i need now) and test it with a good amount of fuel ... Here are the pics of
  19. Hi Ron ! Yes i do have a baffle (sliding cover) to choke my intake on the blower and the back wall (of firebricks) of the forge can be moved inside towards the front of the forge to size to work needs ... I also go hunting and fishing a couple of times a year and lots of wood can be found in my hunting spot so i will probably give it a try at making my own charcoal (plus we have been opening trails at this place so leaves us with lots of free wood)... Thanks Ron Steven I feel like building a propane one also - many folks suggested a propane forge which can be mo
  20. Hi Stephan ! The side blast tuyere comes from a muffler pipe from a pick-up. I thought they were mild steel or something similar - doesn't look galvanized (by eye) but i can always do a grinder test to see if it burns green (zinc most often burns green when grinded) - Are silencer pipes usualy galvanized (would be logicial because of high heat) ??? need enlightment !
  21. Thanks for looking Edgar ! I wasn't sure of the correct sizing to make it but i figured 1 brick length (9 inch) between the walls so i can always move the back wall towards the front to size to work needs. I just forgot to check the clearance to allow a brick to move freely so i got cutting to do to a couple of bricks (should have checked it before the ref. mortar finally set ) Do you use it with charcoal also or Blacksmith coal ?
  22. Hi everyone ! This is the forge i am currently building : It is based on the design found at the twin Oak Forge (very nice tutorial by the way) which is based on Japanese style forge. So here are some of the pictures of it : I also added (not shown in pictures) an enclosed area all around the forge (just higher than the bottom of the forge) with treated wood and filled it with 1/2 inch of gravel or river bed rock to isolate from the area around the forge. This is the front view and as you can see and i left the top 12 X 12 tiles and the bricks at the back unmortared so they can b
  23. Nice pics ! Clears a couple of questions from my mind !!!
  24. Unbelievable ! i am speechless !
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