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Matt Gregory

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Posts posted by Matt Gregory

  1. I can't remember if I bought this from USAKnifemaker Supply or if I stole it while working on knives at Dan Farr's shop. I know you can order direct from Crucible steel in Texas, they have it, too. You might check with Aldo at NJ Steel Baron, too... he doesn't list it on his site, but that hardly means anything. The guy's amazing and can get anything. Patience with him right now though, as i believe there was a death in his family...


    I love CruForgeV... heat treatment is simple, it's a significant improvement in edge retention and toughness compared to any of the forging steels I've used, and exhibits forging properties akin to W2. The drawback is that along with the improved wear resistance comes tougher finishing requirements. Ceramic belts after heat treat are a must, and shop rolls barely touch it.


    Thanks for the comments, gang!

  2. I think what will likely end up happening is that I'll make a cradle to pull the entire pivoting portion of the hammer... this will buy me access to the pivot bolts (assuming, of course, the same thing doesn't happen on the other side!!!). No worries - like I said, this poor thing ain't young, and I'm not relying on it working any time soon to keep me fed. ^_^ All good fun - as soon as it stops being so, it'll be someone else's project. :D

  3. Well, I got a bit of time to work on the ol' girl today. I power washed it to get the crud off, loosened the helve husk to see if I could work it free so when I have a helve I can spread it open...





    ...then had it slip off the pivot on the left side! Thought for sure the entire upper half of the hammer was coming down. I managed to jury rig a platform and got my floor jack under it, propped it back into place, and tried to tighten it in place with the fulcrum pivot screw. The bolt moved freely, but I can see the threads next to the husk, and they ain't budging. Removed the bolt to find that it's sheared, with the pivot point of it in place.




    Now I gotta find a bolt, and find a way to get the sheared end out. I'm guessing I'll to have to build a chainfall cradle in order to keep the upper assembly from collapsing. Oh well, she's over 100 years old. I guess this stuff is bound to happen!



  4. ... at long last, I can provide an update on this!


    One of the tensioning bolts of the helve husk was missing, and after resigning myself to having one made, a gentleman named Phil Cox found exactly what I needed!!! As previously mentioned here, Phil collects power hammers (Bradley's in particular), and he's been an enormous asset to me!


    Here's a shot of the nuts and tensioning bolt I received from Mr. Cox - perfect!!





    ...now if it'll just warm up for a while and let me get to the darn contraption I can get fiddling with it again. It hasn't risen above the high twenties here yet in weeks - cold even for us this time of year.

  5. If I could warrant a guess, I would bet that the 'fixed' tensioning system virtually eliminates hop and any other motion that could be caused by variable tensioning systems - ingenious! Does it track really smoothly? That would be the proof, as they say...


    What size are the tool arm bars?


    I know you specifically asked not to make reference to other grinders, but my suspicion is that for the amount of money you spent you can't touch any of the grinders you mentioned with the same capabilities or features. Nice machine - and cheap, too!

  6. I use 1.5 hp 1800 rpm motors and run them at double speed. I have tried to slow the motor down and can not do it. My grinder was used at Bowie Clairborne's hammer-in this October and was used by professional knifemakers. They didn't slow it down either.


    While at Bowie's Bill Wiggins demonstrated using a disk grinder and I felt that I needed to supply the 1 hp motors and VFDs for that application also. I have built mine and have Rod Nielsen's Interchangable Disk System on it http://www.nielsende...om/Welcome.html.




    Hi Wayne,

    Not sure if this is thread hijacking (mod's, if so, tell me and I'll start another thread or email Mr. Coe), but would you mind explaining how you're running the motor at double speed? I'm guessing it's an adjustment on the VFD, but I've never heard of doing such a thing. Is it detrimental to the life or longevity of the motor or VFD?


    Both your machines and your website look great, btw!

  7. Hi Chuck!


    I've tried the battery acid method before, and you're right - it works. However, my results weren't like what I got from these folks. When I used the acid, it certainly increased the 'bite' of the files, but it didn't last long. These really work like new files!


    Loved your sheath dvd, btw.


    How ya surviving the winter up there, Dick? You folks are getting pelted this year, eh?

  8. I stumbled across a thread on a machinist forum regarding a file sharpening service. Most of my files are shot, and many of them were my grandfather's and are 40 or 50 years old - or older!


    I sent out 14 files to Boggs Tool & File Sharpening Company, 14100 Orange Avenue, Paramount, CA 90723 on January 24th. At least 5 of the files were what I would have thought were spent, including a couple mill bastards and a big rat tail file that was my grandfather's.

    I just took th old files and wrapped them in newspaper, rolling one from the corner and then adding another each time the roll covered the first one, taped them up good and tight, and boxed them up. I dropped a note in the box asking them to contact me about payment. The invoice asked me to mention how many files I was sending in the package next time.


    I received them back today, and I can't tell you how impressed I am. Even the ones they marked as 'rejects' (meaning "please don't send us these again, there's not much left in them") came back sharp enough to use, and the good ones are sharper than when they were new!!!!


    Better still, this service is so darn cheap it borders on lunacy. All 14 files including shipping back to me cost $24.82!!!!! You can't buy one good file for that cheap...



    Check them out - it's absolutely painless and the files are hella sharp!

  9. BTW, it was never intended to be sold as a supersteel, merely a steel that was designed with conventional blacksmithing in mind that would offer better performance than the usual old chevy spring or the simpler steels.

  10. This steel offers almost NO characteristics similar to W2, so I think it's dangerous to label it as such. It's a through-hardening steel, with enough alloying to increase it's carbide content significantly, with the requisite increase in capable toughness due to properly formed martensite (which can be tempered to offer greater toughness), rather than relying on it's toughness from an unhardened pearlitic state. W2's vanadium content is so minimal that it's presence is merely there to pin grain growth rather than offer any additional wear resistance.

    The intention of the steel was to offer a material that a bladesmith could use, using conventional bladesmithing techniques (forge for heat source for heat treatment, just abut any quench medium including the usual vegetable oils, etc., methods such as reading color to determine temp) that would improve performance for knife blades without requiring additional special tooling.


    The results in the photos above should be significant because ANY bladesmith can achieve similar, consistent results with this steel and have a better performing blade with nothing more advanced than the stuff they'd use for any of the simple steels. There are lots of other comparable steels available, but none of them can be properly heat treated as easily or with as consistent results as this. THAT was the end goal of this steel, and I believe it manages this admirably.

  11. The following images are tests which were performed by Crucible's metallurgists on a test blade which was forged and heat treated by Dan Farr. The blade was heat treated using a propane forge, and the spine temper was drawn back using an oxy/acetylene torch. The vanadium content was chosen to increase wear resistance and also pin the grain boundaries during proper forging practices.





















  12. I use the steel all the time, and I love it. Greater wear resistance by a considerable margin than most forging steels with no significant reduction in toughness. Not sure it's what I'd plan to use for swords, but works great for anything smaller, with WAY better edge holding than any of the simple steels.

  13. Is he dead yet?


    Remember, as soon as it appears as if he's passed, we need to cut his head off before he reanimates... sometimes they can fool you into thinking they haven't really died, and are just sleeping heavily in a painkiller induced haze. If there's anyone nearby, stop in and check - late at night is the best time. Sneak into the house so the monster doesn't suspect anything, then WHAM!





    Now would be a great time to catch up on all the bad movies you can stream through Netflix, bro... take your mind of the healing. Besides, when was the last time you watched Rodan? :lol:


    Get well, bro!

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