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Andy Davis

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    http://maddwarfworkshop.com/
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  1. Sincere apologies about the image size. Forgot BSF doesn't have a resize function! Will fix it!
  2. Hey everyone! Been a while since I have posted here, although amidst renovating a shop, moving closer to said renovating shop, graduating college, and becoming a full time teacher and knife maker, somehow I forgot about BSF! Quickly i'd like to say, I'm exceedingly jealous that i am not heading to Alaska this weekend for the most bad-ass sword seminar to have ever happened in the past 1000 years. I do hope you all are safe, but not too safe! So here is my catch-up post. I would like to introduce my new LLC "A. Davis Metalworx" that will be solely my teaching and knifemaking business. as of the past month I have been teaching a few one-on-one classes and absolutely LOVE it. I cannot wait for my 4 new students to start in July. I am really looking forward to what they can teach me and what i can learn from them! Since graduating college I have seen my work in a completely new light. "close enough" doesn't cut it. It's the details that count when it comes to knives. I have a whole new outlook on how I make knives and how to teach that to other people. In the midst of teaching I have learned a great deal about my own craftsmanship as a knifemaker, and as an artist. That being said, I'll keep this topic mostly images, since i honestly don't have the attention span to sit down and write you guys a book about my life, and my future, although I am SURE you'd be excited to know Without further ado, I will prove to you I have not slacked off this month. First up. Double ground carbon fiber with red liners and stainless pins. It was crafted from some W2 rom Aldo. It warped heavily during Heat Treat, but I was able to get it back strait as arrow. I then overcorrected for the bend and quenched it again, perfectly strait. Next is a bit of an odd project. But one that was extremely challenging as an artists and a craftsman. I had to utilize every aspect of woodworking and metalworking I knew. While the finished product looks good, almost everything was made twice. Although i had to coin a new phrase to repeat every night before bed "if it's not right the first time, do it again tomorrow." Many nights I fell asleep telling myself that! In the end it was well worth it. The owner (a chef who works in Washington, DC) was extremely satisfied with it! Bloodwood, 1095 and 15N20 blade. Next up is the most recent knife i made. Worked on a set of three of these yesterday and today. I only got this one finished though. But the other two are waiting for glue to dry. They are very utilitarian knives compared to what I normally make. i hope whoever ends up with them will use them! Walnut, 1095, and bronze. Next is another double hollow ground knife. It has Tiger maple scales and has some hefty duty filework. The steel again is Aldo's W2. This guy is just a really quick experiment with Teak. I have never used the material before and wanted to see how it looked in an overall package. I have ALOT of teak (>2tons) so I will probably be pumping out a few with teak here and there. Kinda looks like a shark. It still needs some etching on the blade as well as some woodburning on the handle and sheath. blade is 1085 last but not least, A bushcraft machete. i sold six of these guys to a man who was going to resell them. Keep an eye out for any of them if they pop up! They are 1085 with cord wrap. Nothing special, but they are good utility knives. The patina is a little experiment. It's just finely ground sawdust sprinkled on the blade, then ferric Chloride is squirted on with a spray bottle and when it comes in contact with the sawdust it pools up in funny looking shapes. Worked out nicely for these guys. Wish I could type more, but my hands are numb from the grinder and there are some designs bouncing in my head that I have got to get on paper before they fly the coupe! Thanks everyone for your support of both David and I as we travel down our roads into new horizons. I'm sure we will both have an ever increasing amount of new work to post as the days and weeks go by. Thanks again BSF! -Andy A. Davis Metalworx
  3. That said, how "stainless" is it? Unfortunately I have no experience working with stainless (exclusively use 10xx steel) but have been looking for better option. Would this be a decent stock removal steel for medium size blades? Also what type of surface does it have? will it take patina? or does the finish act like 440C? More importantly, how do you heat treat it? I think i'd only be down for maybe two or three sticks, but looking at the prices makes me question giving up such a great deal :| another question I had was, what is the forge-weld characteristics of this stuff? can it be fused to 52100 or some equivalent? Thanks for your reply Ric.
  4. Hey everyone, just got sent this from a friend in an email today. Looks like some interesting stuff. Does anyone have any more information on this type of steel? what would it's use be? quench? ect? Thanks, Here is the LINK
  5. This past week I have been rather busy working on these 4 knives. I took a break from commission work for a while and have been cranking out some things that i really enjoy, so here we go! Knife #1..... I've been calling this guy "Roughmans Edge" because it is the thickest stock i have worked in so far. it's 1/4" thick spine with a flat grind then a couple seconds on the slack belt to blend everything. The blade is forged from ATV drive chain. I had a good supply of it, and decided it was time to make something out of it. It's funky stuff to weld up. very difficult to get it to press evenly. Although It turned out kinda crazy. I have alot of the billet left over, so i'm going to see if etching it for 4+ hours makes the pattern pop anymore than this. The wood is Bark inclusion Beech. It was really interesting stuff to work with. i found a tree of it in our woods and we chopped it up into handle sized pieces and let it dry for a year. Copper bolster and thats about it. Knife #2..... I make a knife that I refer to as a "bloodwood knife" and people really like it and order it quite often, however I got so tired of making the same knife I HAD to make something different. It is kinda japanese kitchen knife in style, but it feels more like a utility knife when you hold it. It's 1080 with fireplace cement and Parks 50. Knife #3.... This is one of those knives that never seem to get finished. David forged the blade about three years ago. I stuck a bolster and handle on it. then it sat around for a year, then David ground the handle a little. Then I made a sheath the other day, so it is now finished. It's a scrap knife that has no real purpose, but i like it all the same. has an elven feel while still being usable. Knife #4.... just a quick utility knife forged from 1075 fireplace cement and parks 50. It has a tiger maple handle and is just a good EDC. Hopefully we will be posting more pictures soon of some of the bigger commission projects we've been working on. However some urgent work has been slowing us down lately. hopefully David will clue you in once the film comes out Thanks, Andy -Mad Dwarf Workshop-
  6. I finally went to the shop this afternoon. I had been gone for an extended period due to the newlywed lifestyle and being in school for the summer. However I managed to escape to the shop for some much needed steel. A quick thanks to everyone who congratulated me and my new wife, we are very happy to be together and she has even gone as far as to let me keep my grinder in the garage instead of her car! Boy did I pick a good one! Now for the knife. This is just some plain 1075 from Admiral. This was my first attempt at getting a hamon line. I used chimney mortar for the clay and Parks 50 for the quenchant. It didn't show anything when sanded to 400 grit but when I dunked it for a couple seconds in ferric it popped right off the blade. I went with some random scrap maple, however once it was clean given the time I invested. How do you normally bring out a hamon in 10XX steel? does it always take ferric? Next up is a sheath and lanyard, then it will be up for sale in the coming weeks. David and I have a ton of awesome new projects on the list and will be using every spare minute this summer to work on it. Thanks everyone for their support and kind words! Andy -Mad Dwarf Workshop-
  7. Found this. I'm kind of suspicious of it due to the price. However it has all of the veriables i need. What do you guys think? http://cgi.ebay.com/VARIABLE-FREQUENCY-DRIVE-INVERTER-VFD-3KW-4HP-13A-NEW-l-/260662168498?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb0ad0bb2
  8. Here are some photo's depicting the flat platen and all the bells and whistles this thing has. I think I will be very happy once I get this thing installed!
  9. Hey guys, I'm in the same boat. I'm looking to get a VFD with an input of 220V 30amp single phase, and output to my 4HP three phase motor. I will email you later wayne to get your opinion on a VFD. Thanks
  10. Hey everyone, purchased the grinder, I saw it run in the shop and it is an absolute BEAST. One thing I didn't realise it how versitile this machine is. There is a flat platen on the top of the machine that is 3" by 16" and it has a 8" contact wheel. The platen and dust box can be removed so I can grind verticly as well. The seller had to rip me away from it so i could give him the cash. UNFORTUNATLY. I need to get either a phase converter (i'm thinking static for financial reasons). OR a VFD (some VFD convert single, to 3 phase). Any suggestions on places to look for a VFD? I found some static converters on grizzly for $190, but does anyone have any they arn't using and would sell me? The motor is 4HP and runs at 3800rpm!!!! A bit much for basic bladesmithing, but I can make it work. It is currently set for Delta wiring at 240V. Thanks for your help guys.
  11. Anyone have a guess at what the electric pull will be? 220? I will be seeing the gentleman tomorrow to witness it run and to get some more info on what exactly it is, and if I can change contact wheels. I will be sure to keep you guys up-dated.
  12. LOTS of belts, $50 for 10 of them seems to be the norm. comes in all sorts of grits. we would use low grits mainly.
  13. I have a guy who posted on a forum who offered this machine of unknown origin to me for $200. my question to all is.... Should I buy it? It runs, I'm going to see it in action tomorrow. The base says "wilton" and it looks like the unit was made for the base, so i'm assuming it is a Wilton Grinder. It has a 3" by 79" belt and runs at what he described as "EXTREMELY high speeds for a beltsander". However he has no other info on it, and he couldn't find a model number or anything. It APPEARS to have a 4 or 5 HP motor on it, and I REALLY hope it's 220 and not bigger. If anyone has any info on this unit, please share! and if they think it would be a decent investment for profiling, shaping, ect. Attached is a rough cell phone picture he sent to me. If it isn't what I am interested in, would anyone be up for purchasing it? Thanks, Andy -Mad Dwarf Workshop-
  14. I am enrolled in a casting and marriage of metals (Mokume Gane) class at the local University. here are a few of the projects i have been working on with the casting aspect of things. The ring and toy soldier are centrifugal, the texture studies are vacuum castings. I will post a few pictures of the things I’ve done in Mokume in the following weeks, but for now I'm focusing on getting the castings out of the way so i can clean them up later. Most of these castings I have not done any clean up, other than grind the sprues off. These all came out of 3 flasks, one had all the texture studies and where vacuum cast with 600g of bronze. The others where centrifugal cast with 200g of metal. Anyone know of any Mokume artists with a website? something other than ring makers preferably. Let me know what you guys think, I PROMISE I will get back to swords in the next post! Thanks, Andy -Mad Dwarf Workshop-
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