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Todd Gdula

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Everything posted by Todd Gdula

  1. Thanks, Bruce! I'll start exploring, but I do believe it's all here: http://web.archive.org/web/20130806062850/http://dfoggknives.com/index.htm
  2. Howdy! Back when this site was http://www.dfoggknives.com/forums, Don kept a buncha how-tos, WIPs, tutorials, and resources at the parent site http://www.dfoggknives.com/. Does anyone know if they still exist? Where they are? (I searched, honest I did ) Thanks!
  3. Logan, I apologize for answering late. This thread is not notifying me when there's a new post. I used most of a full roll. Your math is probably right.
  4. One more question on this topic... I'm researching them also, and I can't find anything written, but the pictures seem to show a full convex grind. Anyone have input on that?
  5. John, thanks for sharing the pictures!
  6. That reminds me... Tim (and Nathan) won't be there this year. It'll be strange without him.
  7. Niiiice. And your little'un was right about the pointed tip - it looks good!
  8. Guys, sorry to get back to you late - the site didn't notify me there were more replies. Stewart, I know of guys who have used 100# bottles but I have no personal experience. I've heard they work fine. Brian, I haven't dropped a blade yet but the burner port is big enough to give pretty good access to get a dropped blade out. I temper big blades in my propane grill - I have a big Weber with a thermometer and good temp control. It'll run steady at up to 600F in hot weather, 525 in cold weather.
  9. Tyler, it's pretty close to "right" the way it is - it will pull a slack yellow flame in, but resists a little with a blue flame till it gets warmed up. A little tuning will get it perfect. Alan, the temperature differential appears to be pretty small (remember I'm going by eye) and like I said it's actually a little hotter at the bottom - probably because of the huge burner. I wanted to go vertical to avoid sag in the workpiece, but the beauty of this design is if it doesn't work out (It looks like it will) it can be made horizontal with only minor adjustments. I'm probably going
  10. Tyler, I noticed that it needs to be in the forge until it gets hot and then can be backed out. I stopped backing it out at about 1" inside the forge - but I'll try your suggestion tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks!
  11. Just for heat treating. It heats way to long a section for forging - a long blade would flop around like spaghetti. That's an ACE Red Dragon burner. They go for ~$70-80. You can get one cheaper, but they won't last as long. Oh, BTW, the $100-150 cost estimate is without the burner.
  12. George, it's about a days work and ~$100-$150 in materials. Not a big deal.
  13. Good tip, thanks. I fired it tonight and thermal cycled a katana - HT tomorrow. So far so good - everything is working right and staying together.
  14. You're absolutely correct. For venting the 3" plug unscrews and there's no wool under it. If that's not enough vent then I'll cut the slot bigger. We'll see ow it goes when I fire it.
  15. WIP build along posted here: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=24457
  16. As promised in this thread: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=23241 Here's a little WIP build along... 55 gallon drum marked "Texaco" with other markings - which I looked up. It had contained hydraulic fluid, so no issues with dangerous substances. It was nearly dry, so I just washed it out with the hose and some laundry soap. It's a strong enough surfactant to clean up most oils. I cut around the circumference with a reciprocating saw. My first cut was just above a "rib", the second was through the middle of the rib, removing an ~1" ring. The ring is ga
  17. Thanks Tyler, great input. I'm going to get this done either just before or just after Ashokan.
  18. Thanks, guys. Owen, I have always moved belts from metal duty to wood, but I'll have dedicated wood belts based on your advice. Thanks!
  19. Thanks, Dave. Norton Blaze is one of the few I haven't tried yet. I've been using 3M Ceramic 967 Cubitron for hogging metal and 3M Trizact CF for finishing metal. I'm convinced that for finishing metal Trizact CF are going away the best belt on the planet (thank you Delbert!), but for hogging and woodwork (obviously) I'm still experimenting. I'm shopping right now and I'll throw some Blaze in the basket. Thanks again!
  20. Thanks, Nate. Sometimes it's helpful just to know it's not me or something I'm doing. I have some Klingspor Jflex on hand - I'll check to see if I have a coarse enough grit and give'm a try.
  21. I find myself getting frustrated at how quickly my 2 x 72 belts clog when rough shaping wood. I've tried quite a few types and grits running from 36-80 and haven't found anything I'm happy with. I do use a rubber block belt cleaner, but it doesn't work nearly as well on wood as on metal clog. Any thoughts? Yes, I do use a respirator, I know that would come up.
  22. Actually mine. DC to anyone outside Dutchess County pretty well means District of Columbia.
  23. Doug, DC for me is Dutchess County - which is in rural upstate NY. You couldn't catch me living in a big city! The facility is in Poughkeepsie, which is about as urban as I want to deal with.
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