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J. Helmes

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Posts posted by J. Helmes

  1. :excl: Two different types of grain we're talking about here. I, and I suspect Nabiul, was talking about grain as in crystalline structure of modern steel. With wrought iron and wrought-derived steels, there's also the silicate slag grain to account for, which is why slitting with the grain and drifting was stronger than drilling prior to Bessemer steels. In modern steels it's not an issue, as there is no slag grain. Also, you can't "cut" the crystalline grain; it's a property of atomic structure. You can fracture it, or make it bigger or smaller via heat and mechanical manipulation. That's called "bladesmithing." ;)


    The reason the Rhenish/Merovingian/Viking swordsmiths liked to grind the fullers seems to have had to do with pattern development in composite blades. That is not totally confirmed but seems likely. After the demise of pattern-welded blades in the 10th-11th century, more fullers seem to be forged in. Proper control of forge atmosphere and steel temperature = reduced scale = much less pitting and thus cleanup afterwards. Yes, it takes skill. :o



    thanks for the great post allan, very informative. i was wondereing about the nature of bessimer and its reaction to spliting and drifting holes.. so are you saying that a forged blade from a bessimer steel can essentially have the same makeup as a ground blade but the actual heat treating has more to do with the final product than the way it was shaped?

  2. So, the European swordsmiths of the high middle ages had it wrong? :huh: And who said anything about using a sharp edge to fuller with? Of course we're changing the grain, that's what we do! :blink: That's also why we normalize before hardening.


    Yes, some cultures/areas/timeframes did only ground-in or scraped-in fullers in their blades, but plenty of others forged 'em in as well. Ask Kevin Cashen or Randal Graham about how they do it sometime. Not a big deal to clean up or to keep straight.


    Research must come before broad generalization. B)



    i agree with you...wouldnt cutting into the grain also defeat some of the bennifits of forging a blade? i once heard that a split and drifted hole is stronger than a drilled one because the grain goes around the hole as opposed to being cut? i've never seen this tested but it does stand to reason...well at least with sonething like wrought iron. and as far as pit marks are concerned they tend to be only shallow anyway. so grinding them would seem to be a far more labour intensive process to me. just a thought...cheers jeff

  3. You wanna forge those in?






    I take no credit for the idea I did not make it I only found it. GREAT idea though.




    hey, thats a neat looking tool sam, have you made one yet? It looks great but i'm worried that it would draw in one direction because of the pivot as opposed to a guitine which would spread evenly.

  4. Thanks for all the comments everyone, i appreciate it. I've admired and actually collected pictures of work (and advice) from most of you so it's nice to be able to show some work of my own for a change. I havent done much carving before so when i started with this i did'nt know any better. (ignorance is bliss). i found the most important aspect was to have REALLY sharp chisels and to not let the grain carry the chisel off. As far as preventing it from loosing colour i havent the feintest idea how to do that. I just put the tung oil to her several times. oh and jake I agree with you about the shape , but for some reason i cant stop thinking about how a blade will work as a skinner and forever keep forging them so they would work in that situation. The fittings are all fabricared. i forge welded a bunch of wrought together and got out the drill and files. i'd love to learn to cast but it will be awhile before i get to that.



    cheers and thanks jeff

  5. though i am a full time blacksmith i don't often get a chance to make knives but when i do i really enjoy it, and i've been lurking around here for far too long now so here's a knife i recently made. 257 layer pattern weld. steel is from shovel head leaf spring and saw mill blade. it's mostly saw blade though. fittings are old wrought iron and wood is purplehart. the overall design is compiled from varous works i've been inspired by mostly from this site.. comments and criticisms are welcome. thanks jeff





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