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J. Helmes

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Posts posted by J. Helmes

  1. if you do get some 1/4 inch to work with you can actually chisel the hole out. Provided you have a good cold chisel and some free time it wouldnt be all that much of a big deal. You don't have to be hercules to get it done but you will have to make several passes.

  2. we've got an old coal forge here at work where the metal has burned away from around the pot. I would not recomend puting wood anywhere near the pot.. perhapse you could lay down some high temp cement or adobie or something along those lines.. I've seen an ash dump glowing red because it filled with little bits of lit coals , Granted I've never seen someone try it with a wood table. I realise you said that you have no time and money but if your really lucky you might be able to get some plate cheap from a scrap yard and if your even luckier they tend to have an OA torch handy and may just cut it out for you. hey its worth a shot. good luck

  3. check out the victoria albert museum they have an awsome display of metal work. theres also a few swords here and there. The japanese culture section has a few REALLY nice katanas definatly worth a look.

  4. Fastenal stores have W-1 drill rods at most of there stores reasonable priced

    http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex

    You can use the store locator to find what's near you

     

    I'm not sure if it's different everywhere but I just got some drill rod from a fasenall here on ottawa canada and theirs is O1 not W1 . Thanks for the suggestion though I was having an impossible time finding good high carbon steel from the local steel guys in town here. jeff

  5. i think i finaly got the hang of this car tie rod end bar steel

    i just have to final polish the Hamon ect and laquer the case

    and it finnished from car to blade it lives

    Please pass your opinions on this blade ect

    as i said before now i have to learn to take pic's lol.

    good_tanto_017.jpg

     

    good_tanto_004.jpg

     

    good_tanto_012.jpg

    the blade is 1ft from seppa to tip 1ft 6 approx overall

    black horn fittings carved with a dreble tool seppa and hibacki from copper

    with dragonfly menuki black and gold red ash wood saya ect

    blade width just over 1.1/4 at hibacki 1./4 thick at hibacki with taper at kissack

    clay temperd water Quench warm water now i have to try to work out what its worth

    if i wanted to sell it :excl: opinions please :)

     

    hi thats a nice tanto you made there. its hard to see from the pictured but I cant make out the hammon. how did that work out? do you have any idea what tie rod is made of . I use it for all sorts of hot work like chisles and punches and such. I know some smiths who swear by it for hot work even more than h13, but i'v never compaired myself and you cant beat the price.

  6. Sounds like you're on the right track Rex. If they are wood cutting bandsaw blades they are likely to be 15N20 equal to 1075 with 2% nickel and not L6. Big OLD round wood cutting circular saws maybe L6. I think you have a great find with your "suppliers" of scrap steel. Make them some knives for trade.

     

    Good luck with the Guild. A community of like minded individuals is very much better than being alone.

     

    sorry to miss lead anyone there. I keep posting on the forum after i've hade too many beers. thanks for clearing me up with the L6 though.

  7. hi david I totally agree with jake when he says look at whats already been done . your design is a good idea but I dont think you need the extra bit under the tweer. just run the air into that bit o pipin and you should be just fine. or you could look up ron reil ( if you are interested in gas.) fuck just for the spirit of the thing I have a video about making an imitaition katana using the most minimal tools . The guy has an ok section where he builds a long sword forge to heat treat his sword. ( dont expect to learn anything about forging on this video, its all grindin.) basically if you want it ,and you have a vhs player I'm never gonna watch it again so it's all yours. just let me know Jeff

     

    Sorry I didn't realise that the extre bit WAS the tweer (had a few pints last night. I do think that those drilled holes will need to be larger to let out ash (and maybe clinker if you use coal. The air holes on a coal forge tend to be quite large.

  8. Myself and my two other friends, Mason Haskett and Andy Davis, who are part of the MAD Dwarf Workshop, are using an old wood burning oven for a forge at the moment. We have converted it into a working forge with electric bellows that is controlled by a dimmer switch and all, and it works great! But it cannot heat large long blades evenly..

     

    Here is the current forge:

     

    MAD.jpg

    So we are thinking about building a forge specifically for forging long blades.

     

    We recently bought a hand crank bellows and would like to use that on this new forge, but we are not completely sure that we are happy the forge design, and if it will even work properly.

     

    Here is the sketch:

     

    madforgeof8.jpg

     

    We bought some sheet metal but we are not sure if it will be thick enough

    This will obviously involve some welding but my dad has that under control.

     

    What we want your opinion on is if you think the air flow will work?

    And how thick of metal should we use to make this forge, because under such high heat, could it warp if it was not thick enough metal???

    ANY opinions comments or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!!! :) We want to hear what you think!

     

    Thank's so much! :)

    David D. the MAD Dwarf Workshop

     

     

    hi david I totally agree with jake when he says look at whats already been done . your design is a good idea but I dont think you need the extra bit under the tweer. just run the air into that bit o pipin and you should be just fine. or you could look up ron reil ( if you are interested in gas.) fuck just for the spirit of the thing I have a video about making an imitaition katana using the most minimal tools . The guy has an ok section where he builds a long sword forge to heat treat his sword. ( dont expect to learn anything about forging on this video, its all grindin.) basically if you want it ,and you have a vhs player I'm never gonna watch it again so it's all yours. just let me know Jeff

  9. I went and saw a saw doctor today to see about getting some old or broken band saw blades to use for damascus work. He was very helpful and supplied some material.I asked him about the type of steel in them but all he knew was that they were high carbon with some nickel for flex. Does that sound right? They were nice and shiny.

    Even better he got me in contact with the firm that make his blades. They have off cuts of the blank material left over from the blades. They said it ranges from 0.85 to 2.0 mm thick and can be up to 14 inches wide.

    I am going to see them on tuesday to have a look through their scrap bin.

     

    What thickness would be the best for making up billets of damascus?

    What size strips should I cut it into?

    How many layers in each billet?

     

    So many questions...... I would really appreciate some advice

     

    Cheers Rex

     

     

    hi if it's used to cut wood it might be L6 which i think might be 1070(?) with nickle. get as much as you can get. it makes great blades espeially it they are of the longer type like swords. it welds very well to regular 1070(?) and has a great contrast. take everything you can get and forget the thickness I promise you wont regret it .

  10. here is a pic of my first shop (well indoor shop of my own that is) in the making. The predicted grand total for this building will be just over a grand. Thats insulated too with a gravel floor.a steel roof and steel walls in the inside.( I managed to get a hold of an obsceen amount of galvanised air duct for ten bucks. when cut appart the ducting works out to 3x4 foot pannels.)

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