Jump to content

J. Helmes

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by J. Helmes

  1. Hi, I would recomend cutting the grill out. Then I would fix a tube to the end of your burner port that extends to the end of your forge. This tube would have 1/2 inch holes drilled every 3 inched down the entire length. Cap the end of the pipe In each of these holes put a short length of 1/2 outside diameter tube with a cap on the end. drill a hole in each of these caps.The caps/tube will just sit loosly in the forge. This will allow you to vary the length of heat, by pulling out tubes and blocking the holes with carage bolts or some such, and then burying the section of tube not in use. For most work you will only need three. Now fill the bottom of the forge with something righ to the top of the pipe. Some folks use adobe but ashes and such work well. I'll draw a pic and show you. I have a friend who has been using a forge like what i just described for something like 30 or more years now. You will also need to cut a port out of the far end of the forge. Cut it to the level of the blower pipe
  2. Get a really good liquid flux. Get everything super clean.
  3. Thanks for posting the link to the interview article Jim. That was a really good read. The bit about the nitric acid was a real gem as well.
  4. No problems with expansion. If the wire is popping out then your chanels probably aren't cut properly. Jeff
  5. Rob Martin sells anvils new. Just google Thak . I got a big one from him a few years back. To be honest with you. If I was starting out again, I wouldn't even buy an "anvil" . The form isn't nesicary really. I am always amazed by watching smiths in Asia or Africa, and seeing the work that they produce with next to no tools. You can find a sutable chunk of steel from nearly any scrap yard. A 2 or 3 foot length of 3 inch square on end would be the equivalent of a much much more massive anvil. If it is mild steel you can easily buy some hard facing rods and put a hard face on it. Jeff
  6. I did the inlay prior to heat treat.
  7. This is awsome Alan! How did I miss this the first time it came up?
  8. This is great! The perfect blend of themes. It seems completly natural, despite the fact the seax and wakisashi are separated by thousands of miles and hundreds of years. It could be from either culture.
  9. Great tongs Sam! I really really love how you made the jaws on the box tongs. That is pure genious. They look way tougher without having to bulk up the jaws. Did you come up with that? I'd like to nik the idea if it's alright with you.
  10. Thanks Guys! Dave, Alan summed it up best there.
  11. Thanks Guys! Wow Alan ! That is a fine compliment.
  12. Here is a seax. The blade is wrought iron and W2 with auto-hamon. The handle is oak. Jeff
  13. I was once told by a blacksmith that gas forges don't really weld the steel, and they only get the outside of the metal hot. Strange how propane can change the conductive properties of steel. Good job!. A lap weld can be tricky in a gas forge as the oxides can be nasty.
  14. Thanks guys! Mike, I hand polish to 600 grit.
  15. Thanks for the encouraging words guys! It always means alot to me to get positive feedback from the forum . Dan, as near as we can tell it's might be some form of middle high German. I can't honestly tell you what it means though. Failing all else of course, as Peter said, it's probably elvish. Perhaps written by some shifty shop nisse.
  16. Hello, Here is a sword I have just completed. It is based off of a find from Germany from probably the 13th century. The blade is inlayed with bronze. Further imaged of the sword can be found on my facebook page here . For those interested there is a thread on MyArmoury detailing the reconstruction process here .
  17. Really Awsome work Jeroen! I like everything about this seax. Is that some etched weld lines in the W2 I see ?
  18. Awesome work Jesus! I had forgotten how nice cable was. The Menuki are incredible!. I had assumed that they were cast.
  19. Thanks Peter. I was thinking that something like this would probably be the case. I just needed to hear it.
  20. Cool! Thanks Scott. My intention is to make a set type XVIIIs but push the taper almost to the XV. I love the elegance of the XV but slashing is also an important part of the Lichtenauer tradition. Some of those XVIIIs appear to have nearly as acute a taper as the XVs. I have a set of average measurments for the type XV but I was wondering if the distal taper was different for the XVIII. I would assume that the tip was slightly thinner in the XVIIIs to compensate for the wider blade, but that is just a guess. Jeff
  21. Hi, I have recently been bitten by the western martial arts bug and am now looking for a general range of specs for the type XVIII. Single handed and the longsword. Primarily I am interested in blade thickness and distal taper , which i find to be the hardest measurments to deduce from pictures. Jeff
  22. They are both great but I really like that socketed knife !
  • Create New...