Ariel Salaverria

Thank you very much gentlemen Ariel

A pair going to the Old Continent. Chainsaw San Mai Damascus Integral Criollo Knife San mai damascus from a motorcycle chain and bronze with a 5160 core. 10 1/4" overall length, 5 3/8" cutting edge. Itin wood handles, with carbon fiber spacers. Hand made leather sheath. My website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/knives.htm Sign up for my Newsletter: http://server.com/WebApps/mail-list-subscribe.cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel

Two more Nessmuks: San Mai damascus in 1010/1070 with a 5160 core. Overall length is 8" with a 3 1/2" cutting edge. 3 3/4" from tip of the blade to the handles. 1/8" thickness. Full handles. Lanyard hole and tube. Heavy duty hand made leather sheath. Nickel Silver / Copper Mokume Copper / Brass Mokume My website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/available.htm Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-subscribe.cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel

I just finished this one for one of my regular customers as part of my "learning how to make my own folders" process. In case anyone's wondering, I agreed to make the reblade as Mr. Emerson doesn't offer san mai blades and because one of the requests from my customer was a no-wave blade. To keep things clear, I also engraved "Base knife: EKI Horseman. Work by AES" on the inside of one of the liners. Can't take a picture of that without disassembling the knife, but it's easily readable with the knife opened. That said, here's the knife! Customized Emerson Horseman Base Knife: Emerson Knives Horseman. Modifications: - San Mai Damascus (carbon 1010 and stainless 304, with a D2 core) re-blade. - Deer stag handles. - Mokume (brass/copper) dovetailed bolsters, backspacer and opening disk. Much more (and bigger) pictures on the Gallery of my website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/gallery.htm Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-subscribe.cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel

San Mai Damascus Nessmuk Knife San Mai damascus in 1010/1070 with a 5160 core. Overall length is 8" with a 3 1/2" cutting edge. 3 3/4" from tip of the blade to the handles. 1/8" thickness. Full stag handle. Lanyard hole and tube. Damascus (1010/1070) lanyard bead. Heavy duty hand made leather sheath. Cable Damascus Neck Knife Heat colored cable damascus (1085).
85mm (3.34") long, with a 47mm edge (1.85") It's 5mm (0.19") thick at the handle and tapers towards the tip. Stag lanyard bead. Neck carry leather sheath. Cable Damascus EDC Knife Cable damascus (1085)
8" overall length, 3 1/2" cutting edge. Lapacho wood handles and lanyard bead. Decorative cable / brass pins. Hand made leather sheath. More pictures on the Gallery of my website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/gallery.htm Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-subscribe.cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel

Damascus Belt Buckle 1010/1070 damascus, heat colored and laquered (transparent) for rust resistance. 75 mm x 50 mm. 85 grams - 4 mm thick. (3" x 2" - 3oz - 0.16" thick) It can accomodate a belt up to 37 mm (1.45") wide and 8 mm (0.3") thick. Mokume Cross Mokume from stainless 304 and copper. 22 mm (0.86") wide, 31 mm (1.22") long. 3 mm thick (0.12") It weights 5 grams (0.17oz) My website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/ Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-subscribe.cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel

Another one for a local regular customer of mine. BBQ Set (Knife and Fork) in San Mai Mokume San Mai Mokume from 1010/1070/copper sides and a 5160 core. Differentially HT'd. 4 1/4" blade - 8 3/4" overall length. Lenga burl handles with mokume guard (stainless/copper) and mokume buttcap (1010/1070/copper) Spacers in black and white acetate, black micarta and copper. Customer initials etched on blade on request. Matching fork with 8 3/4" OAL. Brown hand made leather sheath. Much more (and bigger) pictures on the Gallery of my website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/gallery.htm Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-subscribe.cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel

Mokume Cross Mokume from stainless 304 and copper. 26 mm (1") wide, 38 mm (1.5") long. 5 mm thick (0.2") Stainless Damascus Panerai Buckle Stainless damascus from stainless 420 MV and stainless 304. 44 mm wide, 28 mm long, and 5 mm thick. For a 26 mm strap. Stainless Damascus Bear Claw Pendant Stainless damascus from stainless 420 MV and stainless 304. 1.7" long, 0.63" wide and 0.23 thick (43 mm long, 16 mm wide and 6 mm thick) My website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/ Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-subscribe.cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel

Thanks guys! Maybe it got "lost in translation" It is a knife to stick meat in the middle so later on you can fill it with cool stuff like cheese, bacon, vegetables, etc before putting it to cook. We call that "mechar" the meat, so in Spanish the knife would be a "mechador" Ariel

San Mai Damascus Carving Knife San Mai damascus in 1010/304 with a 52100 core. 8 5/8" blade with an etched Ace of Spades - 13 3/4" overall length. Handle in "Halloween" micarta. Mokume (copper/stainless) bolster. Handmade leather sheath. Damascus French Nail Knife Damascus in 420MV and A2. 8 5/8" blade - 8 3/4" overall length. Handle in 1010/1070 damascus. Handmade leather sheath. In case you're wondering how I've made the different damascus for blade and handle, I've places different steels on each end of the capsule. More pictures on the Gallery of my website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/gallery.htm Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-subscribe.cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel

Thanks guys! I've got some questions on how I worked the Ti, so here it is: Grit 60, then 150, then 220 and then 400 by hand. After that, polishing paste and cloth in the bench grinder. Key to CF (IMHO) is to round it. That brings up much better looks Ariel

Thanks! Ariel

It only took me four years to finish up this one It started as a kitchen knife, but I decided to turn it into a sterile fighter. Integral Fighter in Forged Titanium and Carbon Fiber Forged 6AL-4V Titanium from a barstock. 26 cm overall length, 13.5 cm blade (10 1/4" OAL and 5 3/8" blade) Blade thickness at the bolster is 7 mm (0.27") and it tapers towards the tip. Carbon Fiber rounded scales with micarta spacers and CF lanyard bead. Hand made cross draw leather sheath. Knife weights only 150 grams (5.3 ounces) and sheath weights 125 grams (4.4 ounces) Any imperfection on the pictures is because of reflections! Now since I know you're going to ask, some info from when I forged this: "To forge the 6AL-4V Ti I took the barstocks to 1000C (yellow) and hammered til they were red (about 900-870C) and then I took the Ti piece to the oven again til it was yellow and started all over again til I got the desired shape. I didn't have my hydraulic press set up back then. This forging process took me about 3 times the time it takes me to forge 5160 as the Ti gets cold sooner than the steel. The blades have a 47RC hardness, and I didn't heat treat it after forging, as the Ti got hardened in the process. I find the behavior of this knives edge wise to a knife made out of 1070 with a hardness of 56RC. After I sharpen them, they get razor sharp and can shave arm hairs. After some use (again, picture a 1070-56RC knife here) they stop shaving hair, and might seem dull, but they keep cutting meat and tomatoes and potatoes with ease. From what I've read, this is because of the micro structure of the Ti, that makes the edge to resemble a micro saw, so if you move the edge against the food, it will cut like hell still. Also, I've read that if you reheat Ti several times, it becomes brittle... This is NOT what I found here, as the blades are almost as maleable and flexible as steel ones. I find this material to be exceptional for kitchen use, as they are light, so after prolongued use you don't get as tired, they don't give any foreign taste to the cutted food like some carbon steels might, and because with a sharpening rod you can get it popping sharp again in some seconds, so if you remember to do that just before each use, you'll have a REALLY light and super sharpened kitchen knife at your disposal." Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-subscribe.cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel

No prob! If you ever wonder how I make something, chances are there's a "how to" on my website Ariel

Thanks guys! Here's how I make the mokume: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/tutorial12.htm Ariel