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Ariel Salaverria

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Posts posted by Ariel Salaverria

  1. Full descriptions :)

     

    San Mai damascus in 1010/1070 with a 52100 core.

    Tapered butt-end. Overall length is 8" on the 3 smaller ones and 8 1/2" on the bigger.

     

    Red wood is Padouk, Brown is Guayacan, Yellow is Garabato and the micarta is a white/black combination (made by myself, as always)

     

     

    Thanks for looking!

     

    Ariel

  2. San Mai damascus in 1010/1070 with a 52100 core.

    I've tapered the butt sections and I really like the effect it creates.

     

    Now I just have to put some slabs on them :D

     

     

    damascusbladesw1_big.jpg

     

    damascusbladesw2_big.jpg

     

    damascusbladesw3_big.jpg

     

    damascusbladesw4_big.jpg

     

    damascusbladesw5_big.jpg

     

     

    Now with handles :)

     

    damascusbladesw6_big.jpg

     

    damascusbladesw7_big.jpg

     

     

    Thanks for looking!

     

    Ariel

  3. INTEGRALS

     

     

    Cable and Micarta Skinner

     

    Cable damascus (1085) from 3/4" diameter cable

    Overall lenght: 8" About 3 1/2" cutting edge

    7mm thickness, width: 1 1/8"

     

    Home made micarta slabs (red and black), with a lanyard in leather and matching micarta.

    Handmade leather sheath.

     

    cablemicsk1_big.jpg

     

    cablemicsk2_big.jpg

     

    cablemicsk3_big.jpg

     

    cablemicsk4_big.jpg

     

    cablemicsk5_big.jpg

     

    cablemicsk6_big.jpg

     

     

     

     

    Cable and Micarta Wharnie

     

    Cable damascus (1085) from 1 1/4" diameter cable

    Overall lenght: 6 1/2" - 3" cutting edge

    7mm thickness, width: 1 1/8"

     

    Home made micarta slabs (green, brown, black), with a lanyard in leather and matching micarta.

    Handmade leather sheath.

     

    cablemicw1_big.jpg

     

    cablemicw2_big.jpg

     

    cablemicw3_big.jpg

     

    cablemicw4_big.jpg

     

    cablemicw5_big.jpg

     

    cablemicw6_big.jpg

     

    Cable and Stag Recurve Clip Point

     

    Cable damascus (1085) from 3/4" diameter cable

    Overall lenght: 8" About 3 1/2" cutting edge

    7mm thickness, width: 1 1/8"

     

    Axis deer stag slabs with a lanyard in leather and matching stag.

    Handmade leather sheath.

     

    cablestagr1_big.jpg

     

    cablestagr2_big.jpg

     

    cablestagr3_big.jpg

     

    cablestagr4_big.jpg

     

    cablestagr5_big.jpg

     

    cablestagr6_big.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

    Cable and Stag Drop Point

     

    Cable damascus (1085) from 3/4" diameter cable

    Overall lenght: 8" About 3 1/2" cutting edge

    7mm thickness, width: 1 1/8"

     

    Axis deer stag slabs with a lanyard in leather and matching stag.

    Handmade leather sheath.

     

    cablestagred1_big.jpg

     

    cablestagred2_big.jpg

     

    cablestagred3_big.jpg

     

    cablestagred4_big.jpg

     

    cablestagred5_big.jpg

     

     

    Cable Tanto

     

    Cable damascus (1085) from 3/4" diameter cable

    Overall lenght: 8" About 3 1/2" cutting edge

    7mm thickness, width: 1 1/8"

     

    Please don't mind the sticker! (Handle slabs can be added if so desired)

     

    Handmade leather sheath.

     

    cabletanto1_big.jpg

     

    cabletanto2_big.jpg

     

    cabletanto3_big.jpg

     

    cabletanto4_big.jpg

     

    cabletanto5_big.jpg

     

    cabletanto6_big.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

    HIDDEN TANG

     

     

    Cable and Stag Drop Point

     

    Cable damascus (1085) from 3/4" diameter cable.

    9 3/4" overal lenght with a 4" blade.

     

    Handle in axis deer stag with a Quebracho wood section and leather spacers.

    Argentine non current circulation coin on the butt.

     

    Handmade leather sheath.

     

    cablestagdp1_big.jpg

     

    cablestagdp2_big.jpg

     

    cablestagdp3_big.jpg

     

    cablestagdp4_big.jpg

     

    cablestagdp5_big.jpg

     

    cablestagdp6_big.jpg

     

    cablestagdp7_big.jpg

     

     

    Cable and Quebracho Recurve Clip Point

     

    Cable damascus (1085) from 3/4" diameter cable.

    9 3/4" overal lenght with a 4" blade.

     

    Handle in Quebracho wood section and leather spacer.

     

    Handmade leather sheath.

     

    cablewoodclip1_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodclip2_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodclip3_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodclip4_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodclip5_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodclip6_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodclip7_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodclip8_big.jpg

     

     

    Cable and Palo Santo Pointy Recurve

     

    Cable damascus (1085) from 3/4" diameter cable.

    9 3/4" overal lenght with a 4" blade.

     

    Handle in Palo Santo wood section and leather spacer.

    Argentine non current circulation coin on the butt.

     

    Handmade leather sheath.

     

    cablewoodko1_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodko2_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodko3_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodko4_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodko5_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodko6_big.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

    Cable and Quebracho Recurve Drop Point

     

    Cable damascus (1085) from 3/4" diameter cable.

    9 3/4" overal lenght with a 4" blade.

     

    Handle in Quebracho wood section and leather spacer.

     

     

    Handmade leather sheath.

     

    cablewoodch1_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodch2_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodch3_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodch4_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodch5_big.jpg

     

    cablewoodch6_big.jpg

     

     

     

    Thanks for looking!

     

    Ariel

  4. A customer of mine liked my Nessmuk knives (I gotta admit I didn't even know this style of knives before a now regular client introduced them to me) but wanted something in damascus and very usable.

     

    San mai was the obvious choice :)

     

    This one has a 52100 core with 1010 and stainless 304 on the sides.

     

    Ruben Calo did the filework on the spine :)

     

     

    sanmainessmuk1w_big.jpg

     

    sanmainessmuk2w_big.jpg

     

    sanmainessmuk3w_big.jpg

     

    sanmainessmuk4w_big.jpg

     

    sanmainessmuk5w_big.jpg

     

    sanmainessmuk6w_big.jpg

     

     

    Thanks for looking!

     

    Ariel

  5. Thank you :)

     

     

    For the previous knives I've used 3/4" diameter cable, but for this one I've used 1 1/4" (you can notice the thicker strands)

     

    As you can see on these pictures, the entire piece is welded. The only exception is where the actual strands are showing, as that's the intended look :)

     

    Specs for this one are:

     

    Cable damascus (1085)

    Overall lenght: 6 1/2" - 3" cutting edge

     

    Home made micarta slabs (green, brown, black), with a lanyard in leather and matching micarta.

     

    I liked the leather texture that much that I've also made a wallet :D

     

     

    cablewharniemic1_big.jpg

     

    cablewharniemic2_big.jpg

     

    cablewharniemic3_big.jpg

     

    cablewharniemic4_big.jpg

     

    cablewharniemic5_big.jpg

     

    cablewharniemic6_big.jpg

     

     

    Thanks for looking!

     

    Ariel

  6. I added some micarta slabs to a knive as a request from a customer and I've decided to make some others like it too.

     

    Cable damascus (1085)

    Overall lenght: 8" About 3 1/2" cutting edge

    7mm thickness, width: 1 1/8"

     

    Home made micarta slabs, with a lanyard in leather and matching micarta.

     

     

    cablepsyc1_big.jpg

     

    cablepsyc2_big.jpg

     

    cablepsyc3_big.jpg

     

    cablepsyc4_big.jpg

     

     

     

    cableredmic1_big.jpg

     

    cableredmic2_big.jpg

     

     

     

    cableblackmic1_big.jpg

     

    cableblackmic2_big.jpg

     

    cableblackmic3_big.jpg

     

    cableblackmic4_big.jpg

     

     

     

    Thanks for looking!

     

    Ariel

  7. Folks,

     

    Below are all the question I got from the forums answered to my best knowledge.

     

    I keep getting A LOT of questions about the resin, times, etc, but those depend on LOTS of factors that vary from resin to resin, depending on manufacturer and type of resin. Locally I have access to thick, medium thickness and more liquified resin, and that's pretty much it, the only difference resides on the ammount of liquifier (styrene monomer) that has been included in the mix.

     

    If I buy the thick one that comes with 2% and I add 8% more in my shop, I get the same liquified resin as if I'd gotten the liquified one (that has the maximum of 10% of SM)

     

    My advice is to ask ALL this questions to the seller or manufacturer of the resin you have access to, as, again, this is just my experience.

     

    And regarding that fact, I'm not trying to sell anything here, I'm just posting what works for me on my shop, with the materials I have access to. What I post in these tutorials is simple stuff that actually works for me, I'm not making theories about it. But with any other shop related stuff, you will have to find your own way to make it, trying and changing some variables in the process :)

     

    I will help anyone with questions, but please don't think that you will do exactly as I do on the pictures and get the exact same result on the first try. Maybe you do, maybe you don't, but don't feel bad if you don't succeed at first, it's all part of the game.

     

    I don't mean to sound condescending or like I'm hiding stuff here (I can assure you neither is the case) but just wanted to say this as this is not an exact science, and if some folks try it and don't succeed at first, I don't want them to be dissapointed or think that I skipped some steps to "hide the secret" or anything like that :)

     

     

    That wood is beautiful, I take it that it is a native plant/tree to your area?

    Nah, I don't know where walnut is originally from, though this root came from one of our Northern states (provinces)

     

     

    What is that pump you are using?

    It's a compressor of a regular (house) refrigerator. I just connected it on the proper end :D

     

     

    What does one use to thin epoxy type resins ? Or are they all different?

    It is NOT epoxy resin. It's Polyester resin, as it's more liquid than the epoxy one. Epoxy doesn't get liquified enough (at least with the epoxy resins I have access locally)

     

     

    How deep does the resin penetrate? How does this work if you want to dye the wood? The box elder is basically white. I've been dyeing it with brown leather dye. I wouldn't think the wood would absorb the dye after being "resinated". Would it?

    It gets COMPLETELY saturated, and you're right, you wouldn't be able to dye it after this process. However, you can add dye to the resin and get it dye on the same process. I just don't know how it would exactly look though.

     

     

    Looks like a neat idea but I would question how effective it is.

    1. How far is the hole drilled down the wood?

    2. I would think that a shallow hole would not have a lot of vacuum in the lower end of the block.

    3. Does this work only for a hidden tang knife? Do you have to have a large block for scales so you can cut them off?

    4. Have you ever sliced the wood crossgrain from top to bottom to see how much penetration this procedure gets?

    1. Like on a hidden tang knife. about 3/4, 7/8, etc. As deep as posible.

    2. Probably not.

    3. No, I can slice the material and use them for scales. The ones I tipically use are around 4x3x15 cm.

    4. Of course, it was the first thing to test. And it was ALL saturated with resin. I will post a picture next week.

    If you see the last picture, you can see a 45 degrees cut on the end of the piece. As you can see by the polishing, it's all resinated.

     

     

    What resin do you use?

    Polyester resin, diluted to be liquified enough (10% SM).

     

     

    how long does it usually take before you turn of the pump? and how do you stop the resin from being to thick? do you thin with acetone maybe?

    It takes me 6 minutes to start seeing the resing getting thicker on the hose end. To liquify it I use Styrene monomer up to a 10% of the resin.

     

     

    What is the average time period for a piece to get completely saturated?

    About 6 minutes for the size I posted (4x3x15 cm.)

    This is for a room temperature of about 20C, but it also depends on teh manufacturer, how old the resin is, the drying time, the ammount of styrene monomer that it has, the % of dye (if any), etc.

     

     

    how deep does the resin penetrate? can you contour the wood or make finger grooves?

    The entire piece gets resinated, so you can do whatever you'd like with the finished piece.

     

     

    How long does it take before the resin starts to harden? Have you tried this with any other type of resin or epoxy?

    6 minutes. I can't use epoxy resin as it doesn't get liquid enough.

     

    Regards :)

     

    Ariel

  8. I've modified them a bit for a better grip and cutting abilities.

     

    San Mai damascus made of 1010 and 1070 with a O1 core. 4" overall lenght.

     

    One of them is coppered while the other is just etched as usual.

     

    They can be used for last ditch SD situations if you'd like, but they are designed with opening boxes in mind :)

     

    cutter1_big.jpg

     

    cutter2_big.jpg

     

    cutter3_big.jpg

     

    cutter4_big.jpg

     

    cutter5_big.jpg

     

    cutter6_big.jpg

     

     

    Instead of that simple coppered thingy on the lanyard, I've used mokume for it.

     

    Sheaths are made of leather, glued and sewn with wire (matching the color of the cutter) with a metal clip for belt of pocket carry.

     

     

    Thanks for looking!

     

    Ariel

  9. There are many beautiful woods that are too soft and porous to be used on knife handles.

     

    If you still use them, when you finish the piece and polish the handles with rotative polishing cloth and polishing paste, you fill all the porous with the paste, leaving a dirty and matte look.

     

    With this method I'm about to describe, it's fairly easy to get a nice finish and a decent hardness. For this I use a Vacuum pump (what can be seen on the pictures is an old refrigeration system with a vacuometer connected to it - it marks 22.5 inches).

     

    The idea is to impregnate all the empty spaces of the wood with the polyester resin.

     

     

    Piece of nut tree root

     

    tutorial_resin1_big.jpg

     

     

    Making a hole on it like I was going to use it for a hidden tang blade.

     

    tutorial_resin2_big.jpg

     

     

    Threading it.

     

    tutorial_resin3_big.jpg

     

     

    I screw a threaded accesorie to allow me to fix a piece of hose. This hose ought to be transparent/translucent so we can check when the resin starts to get into it and cut the process before it reachs the pump.

     

    tutorial_resin4_big.jpg

     

     

    Placing 50 grams of polyester resin (is important that it's as liquified as posible) on a plastic bag similar in size to the piece of wood to later place the wood inside it.

     

    tutorial_resin5_big.jpg

     

    tutorial_resin6_big.jpg

     

     

    Once the wood is placed inside the bag with the resin, I seal it with pvc tape and start the vacuum pump.

     

    tutorial_resin7_big.jpg

     

    tutorial_resin8_big.jpg

     

     

    When the resin starts to harden, I turn the pump off.

     

    tutorial_resin9_big.jpg

     

     

    These are the wood piece from the process and another a little bit bigger after sanding with a 400 grit and polishing them with a rotative polishing disk with polishing paste.

     

    tutorial_resin10_big.jpg

     

    tutorial_resin11_big.jpg

     

     

    On this picture you can see an inner crack on the root, completely sealed with the resin.

     

    tutorial_resin12_big.jpg

     

     

    And finally, here you can apreciate the good polishing this wood takes after this process.

     

    tutorial_resin13_big.jpg

     

     

     

    As always, questions welcomed!

     

    Thanks for looking!

     

    Ariel

  10. I have a question that you might be able to answer me : Is the inner ring and outer race on a bearing also made from 52100 ?

     

    Yes they are :) I've cutted and flatened many of them and used in damascus myself.

    Ariel

  11. Thank you all for the warm welcome :)

     

    Great work, what's the pattern on the sheath in the top picture?

     

    I pressed the wet leather thougth a sheet of holed metal :)

     

    Ariel

  12. Hello gentlemen,

     

    A customer of mine recomended me this place, so I'd like to introduce myself :)

     

    My name is Ariel Salaverria, and I live in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I've been making knives since I was 12 years old in 1977. Since then, I alternate knifemaking with other activities, such as electromechanics, music instruments repairing and customization and enameling techniques.

     

    I've also worked as a mechanic in diesel locomotives, electric facilities, in artistic bladesmithing shops.

     

    I've been posting on knife related internet forums for about two years now (I believe) and I've found them to be an extremely powerful tool to gain and share knowledge with fellow knifemakers.

     

    I usually post tutorials on how I make stuff, there are some links on my website (I should have it updated with more tutorials) and with pictures of my work.

     

    I'm looking forward to learn from my fellow knifemakers and to be of any kind of assistance if you have questions to make about my work :)

     

    These are some of my latest knives:

     

    criollowood3_big.jpg

     

    criollostag1_big.jpg

     

    handledcable3_big.jpg

     

    longintegral1_big.jpg

     

    allmetal2_big.jpg

     

    cablegene1_big.jpg

     

    ward24w_big.jpg

     

    awesomefighter1_big.jpg

     

     

    Ariel Salaverria

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