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Ariel Salaverria

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Everything posted by Ariel Salaverria

  1. Please check out this http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/knifemaking27.htm Ariel
  2. Some months ago I got a request for a massive damascus buckle for a PAM. I thought it was a very interesting challenge and this is what I came up with. Fully stainless damascus from 420 MV and 304 (both stainless steels) 46mm wide, 27mm long, and 5.5mm thick. It weights 26.4 grams (0.93oz) Please let me know what you think! Much more pictures of this on my website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/gallerypendantsedc.htm Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-s....cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel
  3. I do place a piece of paper soaked in wd40 or gasoil. The final finish on these is, as you say, an etch in Ferric Chloride as I do with damascus, only less time as the copper gets eaten up in less time. I call this mokume as it's got other than steel metals. I've decided to use mokume for this combinations, regardless if I use any steel on them and stick with damascus for the 100% ferrous combos. When I finally get time to make a san mai with this mokume on the sides, then I don't know how I'm gonna call it... Ariel
  4. Just like this http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/tutorial12.htm Ariel
  5. I've finally manage to get better pictures. Thanks much to Jose for ordering this piece! Please check out the Knives Gallery of my website for more pictures: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/gallery.htm Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-s....cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel
  6. This is a custom order from a customer that wanted a crucifix. He asked me for this "could the top 2 or 3 layers extend towards the points as representing the arms & legs? They don't physically need to resemble a body's limbs, but more to give a clue as to it's overall cognitive content" and I went with a "Cristo Redentor" theme and this is what I came up with. Thankfully he liked it! Mokume from 1010, 1070 and copper. 1.77" (45 mm) long, 1.41" (36 mm) wide and 0.40" (10 mm) thick. It weights 1.52 oz (43 gr) Lots more pictures on the Damascus / Mokume Pend
  7. Another tanto, this time for a local customer. San Mai damascus in 1070 and 52100 from a motorcycle distribution chain, with a 52100 core. 8" blade, 13" overall. Handle in home made black and red micarta, with a copper / SS decorative pin. Nickel silver / copper mokume habaki and copper tsuba. Teaser pic, I'll get nicer ones soon My website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/ Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-s....cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel
  8. I finished this one in December before going on vacation and for some reason I forgot I took some pics before delivering it. It's the same san mai damascus and ebony I used on the Nessmuk I made some months ago (you can check that one here: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/available.htm) My customer wanted a knife for his wife and wanted it to be care-free as she's not a knife person and would probably not take vary good care of it oiling it. San mai damascus from 304/416 (both stainless steels) with a D2 core. 8 1/2" overall length, 4" cutting edge. 1/8" thickness. Copper
  9. I've got lots of emails and PMs with similar questions, so I'll reply in public so that everyone can read about it If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask. About where I get the 304 and 420, a knifemaker friend of mine got it for me on a company that sells to factories. They sell thin stainless steel sheets for different uses, and since the thickness was appropiate for my use, I got some 2x1 meters sheets and got them cutted in strips to use. I have no idea where to get that stuff in the US or Canada, but if I were to look for it, I wouldn't look for typical knife s
  10. Here's how I've made it http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/knifemaking27.htm Ariel
  11. You guys just wait til I post a tutorial on pizza making... Ariel
  12. About a year ago I got an inquire about making a stainless damascus spoon, so it could be used all the time in the kitchen. Some emails back and forth and I got an order. Took me a lot more work to make than a knife, but it ended up looking really cool. My customer just got it so here are the pictures of it. Please mind you, the dark spots or lines that look out of place are not really on the actual spoon, they're just optical effects due to the curved surfaces, that are really hard to photograph. It's 9 1/2" long and for maximum contrast, I've used 304 and 420MV (Molibdenum Vanadium)
  13. Here's the story on these: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/projects.htm San Mai damascus in 1010/1070 with a 5160 core. Overall length is 8" with a 3 1/2" cutting edge. 3 3/4" from tip of the blade to the handle Full stag handles - Lanyard hole with tube - Cable/copper pins - Mokume lanyard bead - Brown sheath. More pictures here: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/pro_nessmuk_gallery.htm Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-s....cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel
  14. Two I finished this week between orders. I'm late replaying emails, I'll get back to everybody today/tomorrow! Integral San Mai Damascus Criollo Knife San mai damascus from 1010/1070 with a 5160 core. 13 1/2" overall length, 8" edge. Red deer stag handles with leather spacers and mokume (nickel silver and copper) buttcap. Hand made leather sheath. San Mai Damascus Kiridashi / Cutter San mai damascus made of 1010 and 1070 with a 5160 core. 5 1/8" overall lenght. 1 1/2" cutting edge. 1/8" thickness. Leather lanyard with a 1010/1070/copper mokume bead. Leather s
  15. First, a knife I've already showcased, but this time with the finished sheath too. Stainless San Mai Integral Nessmuk Knife San mai damascus from 304/416 (both stainless steels) with a D2 core. 8 1/4" overall length, 3 3/8" cutting edge. 1/8" thickness. Copper and stainless steel guard with leather spacers. Macassar ebony handle. Stainless steel and copper mokume buttcap with a leather spacer. A leather sheath will be made. More pictures here: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/available.htm And here: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/gallery32.htm Th
  16. With this method you avoid some issues that arise when you use a leather / metal combination as a spacer. When you sand and polish the metal parts that sandwiched leather pieces, these metal layers get hot and transmit that heat to the leather strips, which gets contracted, resulting in an end piece with the metal and leather parts at a different level. You can feel and see the difference, and it's not the proper finish I'd like my customers to get on their knives. I've been doing this for over a year now, with excellent results. Strip of leather (8" x 1 1/4" x 3/16"), plastic b
  17. Thanks for the comments gentlemen, I really apreciate those Now here's the finished sheath. My website http://www.aescustomknives.com/ Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-s....cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel
  18. So I finished it and got decent pictures. Integral San Mai Sub Hilt Fighter San mai damascus 1010/1070 with a 5160 core. 16 1/4" overall length, 10" blade. 1/4" thickness. Double edged. Hand made black and grey micarta handle. Cable pins. Leather lanyard with a 1010/1070 "droplet" style bead. Heavy duty handmade leather sheath. Way more pictures on my website: http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/gallery.htm Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-s....cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel
  19. I repaint those areas with perclorure after I mask the handles materials How about some teaser pictures until my webmaster finishes up the rest of the pictures and uploads them? My website http://www.aescustomknives.com/ Sign up for my Newsletter: http://yourwebapps.com/WebApps/mail-list-s....cgi?list=79955 Thanks for looking! Ariel
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