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About TimWestover

  • Birthday 10/03/1973

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    Ontario Canada
  • Interests
    Knives, swords, martial arts,classic Land Rovers, bowmaking, firearms, etc, etc,
  1. Wow! I'm glad that one didn't end going to the scrap yard! That turned out to be a beautiful piece!
  2. Nice seax! I really like the proportions on that piece, well done!
  3. Well, I've been here for a while wondering where to post his. Under critique? Well, I do deserve critique, but still it is more of a show and tell. I don't want to disrespect all the great finished works shown here, but with that that disclaimer firmly in place, here I go; I first took an interest in making knives about 14 yeas ago around age 20. I got "The Complete Bladesmith" about 12 years ago and still I didn't move on. There are things that absolutely shut me down and I'm not sure why. This is meant to encourage people like me to just hit hot metal with a hammer. Just go ahead safely and learn. Make mistakes and learn fom them. I read in a bowmaking book to not waste wood and time, just go ahead and waste the wood and learn. I am 34, have 2 kids and still have yet to finish a blade. I am getting dangerously close to finishing a blade, so I thought I would take this time to make this my official entry into the non-finishers club. Here it is in all it's glory! If you want to make knives, go ahead and FINISH them. If you do, let me know, and maybe enough shame will gather on my avatar's shoulders that I will eventually go down to the basement and finish a blade. Best wishes to everyone in their blademaking, and I hope soon to submit my entry to the finishers club. Tim Westover
  4. Thanks for sharing the pics Jim. They're very interesting. It reminds me of the stories my sensei tells about how he they used to abuse "kamikaze" blades as a kid in Vancouver in the 50's. He used to use them to clean fish with. He also used to throw fairburn sykes commando knives as throwing knives until the tips broke. The pictures make it kind of difficult to see, but does the hamon continue up along the kisaki? If not, then it probably is a cut down wakizashi. Anyway, I always appreciate seeing detailed pics of Japanese blades, thanks.
  5. Nice work Sam! I really like this! But why is the rum gone?!?!
  6. Wow! Transparent steel! Where did you get it? Just kidding, excellent work on that finish! You could give this to a SWAT entry team for peaking around corners, but I guess they have fibre optic cameras and stuff for that now. Whoever gets that is gonna be one happy pappy, but I think I'd be hesitant to use a knife with such a beautiful even finish. Since you asked for crits, I think it could use a choil, but I could be wrong. I Photoshopped a choil into a pic just to see. Great work again!
  7. Nice! I really like that "from temper" look, no wonder you left it! That and the hemp give it a tribal kinda nod.
  8. Wow, great work! I really like the plain hammered ones as is. Thanks for all the pics.
  9. Very nice blades both! I really like the hamon on the first one and the second on looks just incredibly wickedly sharp and pointy! When you swithced to Parks #50 for quenching did you notice any loss in sori? I have heard that oil doesn't give sori but makes the hamon not as crisp as water quench, but those hamons both look really nice and well defined. Keep up the good work and thanks for the pics.
  10. That's looking really nice! Please keep us up to date as you progress with the polish, I'd like to see that hamon better. Thanks!
  11. Good lord that looks wickedly sharp!! Nice work, it looks really precise. Also, I have no problem seeing the hamon in the first picture!
  12. There a lot of good stuff there! Keep up the posting, I can't wait to see some better detail shots and get a look at that katana.
  13. First of all, wow! Great hamon and excellent polish work. There is a lot of detail in that blade that a beginner could miss. Does it have fumbari or is it a trick of the picture? Also, quit apologizing for the photos, they show your work quite well. Also I LOVE that patina on the habaki! If you don't mind sharing how you did it, I'd sure like to know. One last question, did you scrape the clay off the spine? I notice a few hard spots in the mune. Keep that baby and good for you!
  14. I agree that cross section would have a big affect on it. Also I believe variables in clay thickness could affect the difference between how quickly it's cooled on edge and spine, thereby affecting the resulting hamon and habuchi.
  15. Just to wrap this up for any who were interested. I did end up ordering some more HR1075 from page 3 of the blade steel catalogue. But what I wanted was spheroidize annealed HR 1074/1075 from page 13 of this catalogue. http://www.admiralsteel.com/pdf/catalog.pdf So I called and talked to Heather, (very helpful BTW), and she said I would have to buy a 10 foot sheet of that and get it sheared. I did some quick math and thought that would make about 96 inch and a quarter bars and weigh about half a ton and scurried my hobbiest butt back to the blade steel cataloque. So the bladesteel catalogue is for smaller orders for sure. Also, in my opinion, if you have a question for Admiral Steel, just call them, don't bother with email. Thanks for the help and suggestions.
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