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  1. that is only an example on the things you can do using this stand. I have also a 2x72 belt grinder and for sharpening knives I use that machine. but if you have an ugly knife, an axe, a billhook, even a hoe, this support can be a cheap and easy-to-make option for everyone.
  2. yes, it is safe in my opinion. is an angle grinder that has 11k rpm so you have to pay attention at your eyes, fingers, lugs, and so on but the support is solid and once it is firmly attached at the vice holds the grinder safely. you are right about sitting in line with the disc. it is important to use good discs and never take the grinder guard off.
  3. some time ago I made this support and I must say that I find it very convenient and useful. it is assembled and disassembled in few seconds and allows you to fix the grinder to the vice and work by holding the piece with two hands. so it is possible to be much more precise especially if you work on small pieces. you can mount all the discs and use the tool to grind, cut, wire-brush, smooth, sharpen, polish, sandpaper, remove rust, strip paint, etc. etc. in addition it allows to hold the grinder in the vice in many positions here you can find the video and inside the
  4. I was not satisfied by my chinese drill press so some time ago I start looking for a better one... it takes some time to find it out a at an accettable price but in the end I found it: It's a totally different animal. incredibly better. if you are interested here is the link to the video: https://youtu.be/zdXPffsP8w0
  5. Yes, you are right Daniel. I was quite worried that during the heat treatment I would get some problems on the welding line but with a couple of normalization everything went perfectly. in my view the secret is to make big bevels on both the parts so that the welding penetration can be 100% deep.
  6. I found a 700gr hatchet in a market that had an elongated and teardrop "eye" for the handle with a beatiful shape. I took it with the idea of modifying it and obtaining a bearded one with the addition of a steel beard obtained from the leafspring of a truck thick enough to be forged. then I cut away a piece of the bevel of the purchased axe and welded the leafspring. then I forged the new bevel, reshape the profile, heat treated and sharpened it. with a nice piece of walnut I made the curved handle and with a piece of lthick leather a sheath to protect the edge (and myself). for those who w
  7. Thank you clint! I'm glad you like it.
  8. with the steel bar obtained forging a rail road clip I made a single-edge push knife. handle scales asymmetrical also in thickness of chestnut briar. brass pins and black-forge finish. I will appreciate your comments
  9. look this long (22 min) and detailed video! http://www.viddler.com/explore/rashid11/videos/1/
  10. Yes, I agree the quench tank is too far from the owen and wrongly in the sunlight. I prefer to quench and forge late in the evening, or at least after the sunset. thanks for your considerations about the quench-stop to check warpage.
  11. I was talking with a friend of mine about the queching method we saw in many youtube video (also for katanas) for the carbon steels. first of all they uses warm oil (60° C) as a qunching medium. when the blade is at the right temperature, then they put the bevel in the oil for 3-4 seconds, then they pull out of the oil it for other 3-4 seconds and finally put all the blade in the oil letting it still for a longer period. end of quenching. now I understand clearly that first edge quench. this will give a harder edge and a softer spine. simple. my question is: why they pull out the blade fo
  12. finally I did it. I add a piece of pipe and a joint and now I can angle my knife vise in all the directions I want.
  13. wait, save some other money and get a KMG!
  14. very well done in my view! I'm working on something similar. I hope it will be like your!
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