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loneronin

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  1. I was not satisfied by my chinese drill press so some time ago I start looking for a better one... it takes some time to find it out a at an accettable price but in the end I found it: It's a totally different animal. incredibly better. if you are interested here is the link to the video: https://youtu.be/zdXPffsP8w0
  2. Yes, you are right Daniel. I was quite worried that during the heat treatment I would get some problems on the welding line but with a couple of normalization everything went perfectly. in my view the secret is to make big bevels on both the parts so that the welding penetration can be 100% deep.
  3. I found a 700gr hatchet in a market that had an elongated and teardrop "eye" for the handle with a beatiful shape. I took it with the idea of modifying it and obtaining a bearded one with the addition of a steel beard obtained from the leafspring of a truck thick enough to be forged. then I cut away a piece of the bevel of the purchased axe and welded the leafspring. then I forged the new bevel, reshape the profile, heat treated and sharpened it. with a nice piece of walnut I made the curved handle and with a piece of lthick leather a sheath to protect the edge (and myself). for those who w
  4. Thank you clint! I'm glad you like it.
  5. with the steel bar obtained forging a rail road clip I made a single-edge push knife. handle scales asymmetrical also in thickness of chestnut briar. brass pins and black-forge finish. I will appreciate your comments
  6. look this long (22 min) and detailed video! http://www.viddler.com/explore/rashid11/videos/1/
  7. Yes, I agree the quench tank is too far from the owen and wrongly in the sunlight. I prefer to quench and forge late in the evening, or at least after the sunset. thanks for your considerations about the quench-stop to check warpage.
  8. I was talking with a friend of mine about the queching method we saw in many youtube video (also for katanas) for the carbon steels. first of all they uses warm oil (60° C) as a qunching medium. when the blade is at the right temperature, then they put the bevel in the oil for 3-4 seconds, then they pull out of the oil it for other 3-4 seconds and finally put all the blade in the oil letting it still for a longer period. end of quenching. now I understand clearly that first edge quench. this will give a harder edge and a softer spine. simple. my question is: why they pull out the blade fo
  9. finally I did it. I add a piece of pipe and a joint and now I can angle my knife vise in all the directions I want.
  10. wait, save some other money and get a KMG!
  11. very well done in my view! I'm working on something similar. I hope it will be like your!
  12. thaks Jim, it is very easy to be done. all you need is a scaffolding joint and some scraps. the only improvement I can imagin is to get a different joint to use different angles but, as far as I know, the joints are orthogonal (the one I used) or sviwel but thes ones can't be locked at an angle, simply sviwe freely and are unuseful for this job. please post some pics of your vise when you'll have done it!
  13. thanks Jacues, it's my old n.8 carbon steel opinel
  14. I started thinking a simple way to build a reliable knife vise with little or no welding work as my skill in welding is orrible as you can see. :mad: I used a base 4"x4" (10x10cm), a scaffolding joint ad tow pieces of 2" (5cm) diameter pipe. it can be easily clamped to the workbench. very simple and adjustable. this is the result. I still have to improve the wood jaws with a piece of rubber to lock the blade an add another nut where you see the holein the first pic. but you get the overall idea. it works great!
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