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loneronin

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  1. look this long (22 min) and detailed video! http://www.viddler.com/explore/rashid11/videos/1/
  2. Yes, I agree the quench tank is too far from the owen and wrongly in the sunlight. I prefer to quench and forge late in the evening, or at least after the sunset. thanks for your considerations about the quench-stop to check warpage.
  3. I was talking with a friend of mine about the queching method we saw in many youtube video (also for katanas) for the carbon steels. first of all they uses warm oil (60° C) as a qunching medium. when the blade is at the right temperature, then they put the bevel in the oil for 3-4 seconds, then they pull out of the oil it for other 3-4 seconds and finally put all the blade in the oil letting it still for a longer period. end of quenching. now I understand clearly that first edge quench. this will give a harder edge and a softer spine. simple. my question is: why they pull out the blade for a while before diveing it completly in the oil??? why don't they simply wait the first edge quench and then put immediatly all the blade in without extracting it from the oil??? we could't find any reason...
  4. finally I did it. I add a piece of pipe and a joint and now I can angle my knife vise in all the directions I want.
  5. wait, save some other money and get a KMG!
  6. very well done in my view! I'm working on something similar. I hope it will be like your!
  7. thaks Jim, it is very easy to be done. all you need is a scaffolding joint and some scraps. the only improvement I can imagin is to get a different joint to use different angles but, as far as I know, the joints are orthogonal (the one I used) or sviwel but thes ones can't be locked at an angle, simply sviwe freely and are unuseful for this job. please post some pics of your vise when you'll have done it!
  8. thanks Jacues, it's my old n.8 carbon steel opinel
  9. I started thinking a simple way to build a reliable knife vise with little or no welding work as my skill in welding is orrible as you can see. :mad: I used a base 4"x4" (10x10cm), a scaffolding joint ad tow pieces of 2" (5cm) diameter pipe. it can be easily clamped to the workbench. very simple and adjustable. this is the result. I still have to improve the wood jaws with a piece of rubber to lock the blade an add another nut where you see the holein the first pic. but you get the overall idea. it works great!
  10. probably this is one of my absurd dream but I'm wondering if it could be possible to convert a welder inverter to a three phase motor speed controller for my KMG clone. I'm asking because next week I should buy a welder (to use it as a welder ) and it could be great if I can use it also in this second way... out there some master electician can give me his opinion? the welder wil be something like this one, not this one actually: welder inverter
  11. you can also try this: put the steel with the tap on the anvil and give a good hammer blow at the tap. it is much more harder and brittler than the steel so it should break into crumbs. than you can extract the tap pieces. just my 2cents
  12. I can see it too now. beatiful forge!!!!! Thaks!
  13. I am redy to buy the stencils with my signature to etch my blades. it will be my name followed by my logo (the hunter with the spear). how height shoud be the letters of the name to be clearly readable? 3 mm (0,12 inch) sounds good for me. how height are the letters of your marks?
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