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Everything posted by loneronin

  1. Thank you clint! I'm glad you like it.
  2. with the steel bar obtained forging a rail road clip I made a single-edge push knife. handle scales asymmetrical also in thickness of chestnut briar. brass pins and black-forge finish. I will appreciate your comments
  3. look this long (22 min) and detailed video! http://www.viddler.com/explore/rashid11/videos/1/
  4. Yes, I agree the quench tank is too far from the owen and wrongly in the sunlight. I prefer to quench and forge late in the evening, or at least after the sunset. thanks for your considerations about the quench-stop to check warpage.
  5. I was talking with a friend of mine about the queching method we saw in many youtube video (also for katanas) for the carbon steels. first of all they uses warm oil (60° C) as a qunching medium. when the blade is at the right temperature, then they put the bevel in the oil for 3-4 seconds, then they pull out of the oil it for other 3-4 seconds and finally put all the blade in the oil letting it still for a longer period. end of quenching. now I understand clearly that first edge quench. this will give a harder edge and a softer spine. simple. my question is: why they pull out the blade fo
  6. finally I did it. I add a piece of pipe and a joint and now I can angle my knife vise in all the directions I want.
  7. wait, save some other money and get a KMG!
  8. very well done in my view! I'm working on something similar. I hope it will be like your!
  9. thaks Jim, it is very easy to be done. all you need is a scaffolding joint and some scraps. the only improvement I can imagin is to get a different joint to use different angles but, as far as I know, the joints are orthogonal (the one I used) or sviwel but thes ones can't be locked at an angle, simply sviwe freely and are unuseful for this job. please post some pics of your vise when you'll have done it!
  10. thanks Jacues, it's my old n.8 carbon steel opinel
  11. I started thinking a simple way to build a reliable knife vise with little or no welding work as my skill in welding is orrible as you can see. :mad: I used a base 4"x4" (10x10cm), a scaffolding joint ad tow pieces of 2" (5cm) diameter pipe. it can be easily clamped to the workbench. very simple and adjustable. this is the result. I still have to improve the wood jaws with a piece of rubber to lock the blade an add another nut where you see the holein the first pic. but you get the overall idea. it works great!
  12. probably this is one of my absurd dream but I'm wondering if it could be possible to convert a welder inverter to a three phase motor speed controller for my KMG clone. I'm asking because next week I should buy a welder (to use it as a welder ) and it could be great if I can use it also in this second way... out there some master electician can give me his opinion? the welder wil be something like this one, not this one actually: welder inverter
  13. you can also try this: put the steel with the tap on the anvil and give a good hammer blow at the tap. it is much more harder and brittler than the steel so it should break into crumbs. than you can extract the tap pieces. just my 2cents
  14. I can see it too now. beatiful forge!!!!! Thaks!
  15. I am redy to buy the stencils with my signature to etch my blades. it will be my name followed by my logo (the hunter with the spear). how height shoud be the letters of the name to be clearly readable? 3 mm (0,12 inch) sounds good for me. how height are the letters of your marks?
  16. here it is my first "real" etching on the blade of a stake-knife. I used the DC output to etch deep: 5V, 2,40amp, water and salt as electrolyte, pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad (felt over a stainless steel plate) for 10 min, then I changed the transformer to blacken the etch AC, 12V, 1,00amp, same electrolyte for 2 min. I like the result but next time I'll etch in AC with longer rests to let the blade and the stencil better cool down as I noticed some stencil damage and some little black scrubs also over the letters. moreover on my knives I'll use smaller font, maybe 3mm (these are
  17. ... some other test results. I follwed some ads like use a real felt and not toilet paper on the pad, put a piece of stainless steel plate under the felt, etche small areas and try shorter etching time with higher voltage. 1 - 9 - see post #1 of this thread 10 - output: DC, 5V, 2,40amp; distilled water and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad (felt); etching time: 30 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage 11 - output: DC, 5V, 2,40amp; distilled water and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad (felt); etching time: 10 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage 12 - output:
  18. in the first pic you can see the kit with the connections done and you can also see the tag on the transformer saying the positive pole is inside the jack and the negative is outside the jack. the double wire I use has a white wire and a white-red wire. I attach one end of the white-red inside the jack and the other end to the blade; one end of the white outside the jack and the other end to the clip holding the pad. but I think it is ok if we can etch in different ways
  19. I just made a test inverting poles. I attached the negative to the blade and the positive to the pad. no etching at all. then I attach the positive to the blade and the negative to the pad and I etched. For me it works this way....
  20. mainly the article says: "Metal attached to the positive (+) pole will be etched." This should be the blade in my case, the sprayed strip in his one "Metal attached to the negative (-) pole will produce bubbles." This should be the pad, the bare strip in his one ...but I will make a new test to check if I can get a deeper etch reversing the poles
  21. I don't agree... http://www.navaching.com/forge/etching.html http://www.engnath.com/public/manframe.htm everybody says to attach the blade to the positive pole and the pad to the negative pole to get a deep etch.
  22. well, i spent some time to test my etching kit and these are the results. first of all let me introduce you my kit: a - the transformer (I tested 5 of them) b - 3 office clip (1 medium and 2 small size) c - a scrap wire d - a small electrolyte container to wet the pad e - a piece of wood to support the pad f - the pad (toilet paper) g - the electrolyte (I tested some combinations) h - stencils/scotch to mask the blade the pad assembled: I used a piece of stainless stell I found in the scrap pile as blade, with some sand paper I make it even and I clean it with alcoho
  23. I really like it. it seems the right tool to make perfect bevels (even for daggers) with the maximum control on the blade. I think I can use an angular grinder to start the bevel and finish it with your filing station. I also ask you if you have any plan, project or other pics to get every element specs... i.e.: is aluminum also the sqare rod at the far end of the base where the vertical rod is inserted? or is it iron? and the vertical rod is 3/8''ish right? I know these are uninfluent measures but if they work for you... I can follow your path. btw, which are the very few mods to the origina
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