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josh powell

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    Portland, OR, USA
  1. Jason.. The finish is 220 to A100(Gator), to blue scotchbrite. A couple of light etching cycles in ferric chloride with a polish of Mothers mag and wheel polish. Pretty easy. These are not nearly as distinct as they would be if they were hand rubbed to 1000 and then hit with paste polishes. I'm pretty sure that there is some crazy activity going on in these, but it does not show up because of the machine finish. William.. I'm not sure why the pictures are not showing up for you. They are hosted on photo bucket, and should be visible to all. If you send me an email @ powell.josh@gmail.com I will try to find a way for you to view them.
  2. Not the normal fair for this board, but I thought I'd toss them out there.. Not forged, just grinder jockeyed, but still nice knives. Don's forum has been my favorite place on the internet since it was born, and I thought I'd give anyone lurking here a shot at these if they want them. All are differentially heat treated, 1095 blade steel. Hand ground from 3/16" stock, with carbon fiber handles. Finishes are satin, off of a blue scotchbrite belt, with an acid etch over the top to show the hamon. These do show some scuffing from the kydex sheathes, and they are not perfect over all, just very good. The plunges aren't always perfect, but are not bad. Of course, a 7 day inspection period is granted to the purchaser. Past that, if there is ever a problem with your knife, I will do my best to make it right. I'm happy to sharpen these free of charge (you pay shipping both ways). Prefer paypal, will accept postal money order as well. First up is a Wharncliffe style, 2 3/8" cutting edge, 5 3/8" overall length. 85$ shipped CONUS. Sold on another forum. Next, drop point style, about 2" of edge, and 5 1/2" overall. 65$ shipped. Sold on another forum. Next, another Wharncliffe, 2" edge, 5 1/4" overall. 70$ shipped. Another drop point, with a different curve. About 2 1/4" of edge, overall 5 1/8". 70$ Shipped Sold on another forum. Last drop point, 2 1/8" edge, 5 1/8" overall. 65$ shipped. Sold on another forum. Next, a sculpted wharncliff.. Flint knapped texture, no scales. The handle is finished using an old black smiths finish touched up with a bit of plum brown patina. It's nice, but it is kind of rustic. Edge is 2 1/4", over all is 5 /14". 55$ shipped. Sold on another forum. Almost done: A sculpted blade with a flint knapped texture. Textured handle has a the same forge finish as above, but is less even and tempering color shows through it in places. I'm including pics of both sides, because they are different. 2 3/8" of edge, 5 3/8" overall length. 50$ shipped. And last but not least, a bigger fighter. This one isn't differentially heat treated, just a big sharp knife. 4 1/2" inches of edge, 5 3/4" of effective blade length, 10" overall. 200$ would talk this one out of my pocket, where it is currently residing, and provide a custom kydex sheath with your option to carry it the way you choose. The kydex it is in is scratching the crap out of it, and will have to be fixed. And, striking and submission tools.. Inconspicuous, difficult to detect, and probably at least as dangerous as a pen in the correct hands.
  3. It's amazing how hard it is to get that first enclosure for a forge built. I spent months looking for a pipe of just the right size to replace my brick stack forge. Never did find it. I eventually took a hobby welding class up at the local community college.. They pointed me in the direction of a local steel forming company who sold me a sheet of steel and were kind enough to roll it into a tube for free. Once you get over that first hurdle, though, forge bodies seem to just appear from the world around.. I've got a pair of fork lift propane tanks that might some day become vertical forges (very carefully, of course), a couple of smaller helium tanks (the party size, about the shape of a bbq propane tank), 2 25 gallon steel drums (small heat treating forges?), a couple few 55 gallon steel drums (dunno, full sized heat treating forge, or maybe a burnout oven for casting bronze).. I wonder if that happens with power hammers. I think that (1) 3/4" burner will heat 4"x4"x10" very well. Watch out in the wind, though, venturi burners are a little tweaky since they pull air in from the surroundings.. the air intakes on mine are exposed to the wind and a good gust can take the atmosphere in the forge from rich to lean and back very quickly.
  4. The red plunger looks like it might be part of a lubrication system. The one surface grinder I've run (with a very brief tutorial from our machine guy) has one that is similar. In the brief tutorial I was given, it's importance was emphasized, but I couldn't tell any difference when I forgot to use it.
  5. You might try http://www.pmtsco.com/ Don't count on the website, it hasn't been updated in years. It's best to just give them a call. Josh
  6. Don't forget to mask off the detent balls path during the etch, otherwise the folder will feel like it has gravel in it. How did you cut the lock bar into the liner? I've been looking for a good way to do this for a while.
  7. Mat, Check out the work of Jimmy Fikes/Don Fogg that inspired this piece.. http://www.dfoggknives.com/photogallery/Ju...Test/index.html 32" OAL, 16" handle is accurate, I think.
  8. Very cool Taylor. I'm pleased to be proved wrong on this one.. That is a great piece of info, I'd love not to have to run for propane any more.
  9. Thanks John. I'm more interested in techniques that have successfully been used for a face mount motor.. This is the motor I have: http://www.baldor.com/products/detail.asp?...ting=40CMB-CONT As you can see, it does not have a base mount. As such, I have to fabricate that mount. I'm looking for solutions for that problem, specifically. I could fab an L shaped mount to bolt the motor on to, then mount that on a hinge to provide tension for the belt, but I'm not 100% convinced that it is the best way. What I'm really concerned about is whether or not I need to support the motor beyond bolting the face to an upright plate.
  10. Anyone have experience or suggestions for mounting a baldor face mount 3hp 3450 rpm motor to a KMG? I bought a pair at a price that was way to good to pass up, but now I have to do the work to make them work. I'm thinking that I can probably fabricate a motor mount out of 1/2" plate, but I'm a little worried about tensioning the belt. I have a little mill that I'm installing in the shop, I could probably use it to cut slots for a sliding mount, but if there is a faster way, I would love to hear it. I also thought about building a 3rd pulley into the system for belt tension, Additionally, I'm unsure as to whether I should just bolt the motor to the mount, or if I should worry about supporting the bulk of the motor beyond the mount to prevent vibration. I know that my Burr King's at work support the entire grinder assembly off of the face mount, so I suspect that is probably strong enough to support the weight of the motor alone.
  11. I looked into building some natural gas forges for a local community college. In the end, we went with propane instead. Unless you have an industrial source of natural gas already available, you simply don't have a large enough pipe coming into most residential areas to supply the volume that you will need for a forge. I will say that when I was thinking about it, the local gas company rep that I talked to was very willing to assist me in getting a higher volume line installed pretty much anywhere I wanted. He did feel like the forge would have needed to go through the engineering department at the gas company to get approved, but he made it sound like it wouldn't be that hard. If I remember correctly, Olsen's "The Kiln Book" http://www.amazon.com/Kiln-Book-Materials-...n/dp/0873419103 was very helpful in making the calculations for the necessary volume of natural gas vs propane. It's pretty calculation intensive, tho. I'm not great at math, but I'm not terrible. I had to seek assistance from a friend with an engineering degree to make heads or tails of some of the notation for gas and temperature.
  12. Cyrus.. You could use counter sunk holes from the inside of the liner to attach the wootz bolster. The ivory scale would be more difficult to attach in this manner, but still possible with threaded inserts. I'm not sure why you needed an additional spring for the liner lock. I've seen many folders with .050" liners that functioned quite well, using only the force of the bent liner to provide the detent a and lock. Is this an automatic knife? Edit to Add: If forgot to mention, the thickness of the liners is not unappealing to me. This is a very nice looking folder! I"d love to see some close up pictures of the pattern in the blade and bolster. Josh
  13. Working for a major knife company. One of the most successful in the field. Pro rated raise this year.. .16$ per hour. Over the course of the next year, this will amount to about the price of one of the cheapest knives I will make. Over the course of the next year, my partner and I will finish about 1,000,000$ worth of knives, retail value. While our profit on them will be much less (after you account for the cost of materials, the other peoples labor that goes into the work, and the cost that we vendor the knives at), it's still pretty paltry for the level of work and responsibility. Edit: The worst part is, I LIKE this job. It wouldn't hurt nearly as bad if I didn't.
  14. You could try http://www.pmtsco.com/.. I haven't ever asked for a batch analysis for the w-1 that they sell, but they do have a lot of it, and I believe that they do offer some technical services.
  15. Cool to look at, but they are small. I could probably almost watch the propane level going down in the 10# cylinder.
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