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Everything posted by Bennypapa

  1. Starting about 4:30 they begin heat treating blades. The process appears to be edge heat, oil quench, dual hammer, scrape edge, straighten, scrape, final cool in water. The hammering right after the oil quench has me confused. They hammer both sides without really looking for straightness so I'm not SURE if this is a straightening procedure or what. What's your take? Why are they double hammering both sides after the edge quench? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNeJQvooxAk&t=66s
  2. I think you are on the right track with the 36" or 48" dia platen.
  3. 72" radius would make a 12 foot diameter wheel. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone using anything that large. Most of the ones I've seen are about 3'-4' DIAMETER (18"~24" radius).
  4. I should have stated central US. We have home depot, lowes, michaels, hobby lobby and an actual hobby store. Are there any brands that are better than others?
  5. I don't have brick dust on hand but i do have the other materials i mentioned. What is your favorite, locally available epoxy?
  6. I wonder if iron oxide would work. I have some on hand from my pottery hobby. I might also bisque fire some powder terra cotta clay I have. That would be really inert and mimmic the chemistry of the brick dust exactly.
  7. I'm looking for an epoxy additive that will mimic the look of cutlers resin using brick dust. Is there such a thing as stains for epoxy?
  8. found the video with the sen
  9. If you look around on youtube i found a couple other videos showing the use of a sen. One in particular featured a father and two sons. Super production quality on that video too. Ill see if i can find it.
  10. What is the purpose of cold forging as seen at about 6:00 in this video. Ive seen this technique in some videos of other Japanese knifemakers too. Sometimes done on a stump, sometimes on an anvil, once on a power hammer.
  11. Comments welcome huh? How about "beautiful" or "elegant" or "awe inspiring" Those work? Can't wait to see it polished out. Ben
  12. If you want a smoother mix you might try including calcined kaolin in the mix. Serves the same purpose as grog only it is finer particle. You would have to experiment to determine the right proportion. Ben
  13. See, I was thinking it was more to do with varying hardness within the steel. HMM. If the outer layers of steel are harder than the interior the tooth will cut it differently when it runs perpendicular to the face. As it moves from hard to soft steel it will cut away more of the softer steel. That is my theory anyway since the pars of the piece that were parallel tothe blade didn't show the same effect. Do the teeth of a metal cutting band saw have any set? If so then what we are seeing could be due to the alternating teeth's set as they enter the cut. Could it be both? FWIW I
  14. I am building a KMG clone and hade these pieces of scrap cut on a band saw at the local metal supply place. A couple of days later I was looking at the cut edges to see if they had rusted any when I noticed a strange thing had been revealed by the cutting. My link The cut was made with the steel lying on its larger side and when the blade broke free from that it was only cutting the vertical portins of the narrow sides. I guess the inner core of the steel is softer and the blades teel have some set to the so they didn't cut the harder outer skin as easily as they did the inner softer c
  15. My mind wanders back to high school physics. We measured heat by testing the effects on a body of water. We would burn things and use that to heat a cannister of water. Knowing the volume or mass of the water and the temperature change would allow you to calculate the calories generated with the combustion. We were burning fixed amounts of fuel so that made the calculation easy. For a burner that is burning gas as a fuel we have a much more complicated story unless we can measure the volume of gas burned. OR we can use this same principle to make comparative measurements. If burners are ru
  16. Do you know the orifice size? We could calculate the gas flow from the pressure and orifice size to get some kind of number on btu/time. But, then again, that wouldn't tell us about how much heat is escaping the forge will it? That would be the true measure of efficiency wouldn't it? I can't think of any simple way to measure the heat loss from a forge. I can think of ways to do it but they would be elaborate and expensive and would envolve heating a volume of water with the waste heat from the forge. Not something I would do. I guess the comparative method is best in situations like this.
  17. I am not unfamiliar with kaowool type refractory blanket insulation. Being a potter I have used it in many kilns through the years. After the fact I have come to the conclusion that I'd rather not mess with it. I have been exposed to enough silica dust through my pottery and don't want to add insult to injury with kaowool fibers. I am glad to see that most designs I see on the web call for a coating on the wool to minimize release of fibers. I like this but wonder about comparative efficiency between wool insulation and soft brick because I feel more comfortable using brick at this point. Howe
  18. What types of testing methods/procedures/machines are used to get an analysis from and unknown steel? Who does these tests? Who has these types of machines? What industries or teaching institutions typically have them on hand? I live near a major university and wondered if they might have this ability on campus. Could be a great exercise for a student to learn how to do the test as part of their class work. A real world test that is. Ben
  19. Yeah! Clay talk. One of my favorite topics. I make pottery as a hobby so I'd like to share an online resource for data about most ceramic related materials. http://digitalfire.com/4sight/material/index.html Materials listed by name. If you want smooth and low shrinkage and heat resistance you should look into calcined kaolin. The clay is fired which preshrinks it which will help with lowering the wet to dry shrinkage of your mixes while maintaining a small particle size for smoothness. FWIW anything smaller than 200 mesh will feel smooth when rubbed in the fingers. Also, g
  20. Hi Shadow. I found this thread recently when searching the same topic. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3054&view=&hl=FILE&fromsearch=1 There is some great info there. As to annealing, you need to get the steel to its non-magnetic temp and let it cool slowly over several hours. I am a potter so I just throw things in with a bisque load of pots if I am firing. If not I have built a small trench in the ground and burned a fire in it until it is full of coals. Then put your file on the coals and build the fire up on top of it and let it burn. Test your
  21. My forge is a stack of soft bricks that I unstack and pack away when not in use. I have had fun playing with it but I am preparing to Attempt my first heat treating on actual knives. I have had success making fire strikers and some pottery trimming tools from hay rake tines(1095) and commercial sawmill blades (?L6?) respectively. Normalize 3x. Heat just past non-magnetic and quench in used motor oil. I tempered the trimming tools in the forge too. That fire steel out sparks any others that my reenacting friends have! But that is another topic. The heat treat on these objects isn't as criti
  22. I really wish I lived close to your shop. You'd never get rid of me! You make great work and I really like it. I especialy like some of your blades that have pattern welded outer layers with solid cutting edges. Great stuff and thanks for showing us the product and the procedure. Bennypapa
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