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Everything posted by JimC

  1. Dan, whichever deity you choose as my witness, you want to find out. You really, really do. -J
  2. It looks like there's faint wave hamon near the edge in the photo. Acid, in my experience, will bring it up... unless it isn't there. If you're getting faint appearance, and you've tried all that, I can't imagine that there's anything left to truly pop out. Hazuya MIGHT give you different results, but I can't guarantee it. This is beyond my small amount of experience. -J
  3. I am so glad I'm able to be there for even PART of the weekend! Sam, save me a hammer. -J
  4. Gang, is there any room left? I won't be able to do the whole weekend, and I've got a friend I need to drag over on Saturday. -Jim
  5. Anyone know of any good tutorials on flat grinding? Try as I might, I can't get an even grind without convexing the edge or creating digs in the surface. Am I grinding impatiently? Too high a speed? Too much pressure? Piss-poor technique? -Jim
  6. A little knife to celebrate my return to the craft: http://3ravensmetalcraft.wordpress.com/2012/02/26/undead/
  7. I'm in Virginia, burning my hammers, my Nihon-toishi, and a few sketchbooks. I can't get them that nice after 4 years. Will my beard n'er be firey?! Melodrama, thy name is "Unemployed Graphic Designer"!
  8. Impressive. Honestly and truly impressive. -J
  9. JimC

    A victory!

    The next issue will appear on Monday, I think. Thanks for your support, Matt! -Jim
  10. JimC

    A victory!

    http://3ravensmetalcraft.wordpress.com/2011/08/25/not-metal-related-but-important/ I finally decided to self-publish and my wife was kind enough to design the cover! Getting to this point has been the work of almost a year, and I'm looking forward to seeing what happens next. Next on my list: find a new full time job. Wish me luck! -Jim
  11. You can make mead, but only God can make women. Man, just writing that makes me feel all Viking and I'm mostly Scottish!
  12. @Chris: raw materials, services, educational resources. Thanks for asking and helping me refine what I'm looking for. -J (Oi, we should do coffee or something.)
  13. I'm starting up a supplies/craft link project over on my website. If you would like to help out, I'd appreciate it! http://www.jamescrawfordcreative.com/index.php/metalcraft/79-crafts/96-craft-link-project
  14. EXCELLENT! This is going to be great!
  15. Don, I might be cutting my nose of despite my face, but when you were doing this (and my wife was, too), those were the days of Design and Pre Press as a CRAFT. My hat is off to you. CAD is pretty interesting. I'm trying to learn a little bit, if only to get some parts water jet cut. It always helps to hand off a DXF. -Jim
  16. Good Lord, Jake! You made my inner Lowlander hoot and run off to steal a cow! -J
  17. I've been busy with some other stuff, namely, the website that I've resisted building for quite a few years. www.jamescrawfordcreative.com Apropos of nothing, if anyone here in the US needs decent color printing done, let me know. I'm doing work for a printer/mail shop and they need some work to stay above water. The quality is good and their prices are reasonable. Next month, with any luck, I'll have my first novel e-published and will be marketing it like a madman. -Jim
  18. Applying sandpaper to the blade, well, it depends. The Scary Sharp guys use a granite reference block, a water mister, and let surface tension do the rest. Parallel is pretty easy that way, but your 45 degree or perpendicular pressure has to go against the edge or you'll cut things. Another method is using a board and adhesive to keep the sandpaper in place. You clamp the blade down to something immovable and go to town. Same issue with the stroke directions. With Japanese style blades, the final edge is built by the sequence of stones against the bevel. The odd thing is that the last
  19. I'm a bit of an edge geek. "Sharp" is an incredibly variable word. When I do sharpening for people, I ask them what the word means to them so I can get an idea of their expectations. I freely mix techniques to get as close to the results they want as I possibly can. My personal favorite kind of sharp is a highly polished toothy edge. The kind that you feel grab your thumb if you're silly enough to run your finger along the edge. Depending on the steel, you can get that result with 800 grit and careful stropping with chrome oxide on hard leather. Freaky sharp is what you end up with
  20. No problem Dan! This is what I get for spending time trying to figure out if the Japanese stones really are as unique as legend would like us to believe. (Unfortunately, as far as I know, the legends are right.)
  21. Dan, For a carbon steel blade of moderate hardness, you can use the following stones for sharpening: 1. Sandstone 2. Mica-bearing slates or schist (and some slates that don't have mica) 3. Mudstone with a high sand content 4. Volcanic Tuff (that's what Nagura stones are) 5. Cement blocks 6. Jasper (the Vikings were fond of Jasper for this reason) Hope that helps! -Jim
  22. I know some of my fellow Rogues up at Sterling will be drooling in their goatees over that one! Gorgeous work! -Jim
  23. JimC

    Dry nugui

    Sean, I know for a fact that John Smith uses rottenstone on his blades. I'd give it a try. My next experiment will be with diatomaceous earth, because that's just super fine silica. Silica is the main abrasive in honyama stones. Real nagura and Amakusa are volcanic in origin so I can't be sure about them, but I'm willing to bet that there's silica going on there as well. Let me know how it works out! -J
  24. JimC

    Dry nugui

    http://wp.me/pzCbi-7v I'm going to make an offer here, because I want someone to repeat this experiment. Shannon, Kevin, Walter, Jesus, Chris, John...anybody that is a polishing nut who might be interested in trying this, drop me a note. If you don't have toishi powder handy, I'll send you some. All you need is a mortar and pestle, steel scale, toishi powder, and a leather pad. This is how you do it. Get your blade polish up to as fine a surface as you can. Get out the "dry" materials. Use the m & p to grind down the scale as finely as you can, add 1/3 to 1/2 as much toishi powder,
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