DJPratt

instead of having a step around the hammer can you sink the anvil 6" below grade? maybe by making the hammer a two part design like the old steam hammers and what not? Just a thought ~~DJ

I scored a complete 3m Adaflow system on Ebay for under 500$ last summer. That might be an option as well ~~DJ

and 1000.

I also like the Blaze belts, but Tru-grit has a generic version of them now called Best Value Ceramic. they are about last and cut about 80% as well as the blaze belts and at less than half the cost... I switched to these about a year ago and have been fairly happy. Beyond that i use Trizact gators and Non-woven Scotch bright belts for satin finished stuff. Hope this helps! ~~DJ

I really like a 120mm Mortar can from a Military surplus for this very purpose. like this one http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/ammo-cans-storage-containers/120mm-mortar-can-2948.html They hold enough oil not to over heat (around 7 gal.) and it seals well enough to be moved full (i can lay it down in my trunk if i have too.,..) Hope this helps ! ~~DJ

I had to buy and oil heater for my press. If it gets below 20F in the shop the press moves like molasses and the belt slips on the pump..... figured it couldn't be good for it. 25$ at the auto parts store got a magnetic block heater that works wonders. Keep Warm! ~~DJ

I run belts over the edge of my contact wheel all the time. As long as you are careful not to dig that part of the belt in to your piece you should be fine i would think. On the other hand if you lean to much to that side you might cause some deep belt gouges in the piece. ~~DJ

How is your fuel economy? I am liking my T-rex but it dosnt have the raw power my old blown forge had..... but my old forge ate a 40 pound tank in less than 8 hours and i can run for over 24 on my new burner. I am wondering if it was a design flaw on my part.... Thanks! ~~DJ

It pretty forgiving stuff. If it too hot it will all spit out of the hole as it boils (ps wear gloves the burns arnt that bad but...) and if its too cold it hard to get the tang all the way in. My normal procedure is to put a thick (i use a 1" thick peace of maple) wood block over the tip of the knife and lightly seat it with a few taps wrap the blade in some damp paper towel or leather then clap the filled handle in a vice heat the tang till its black hot insert the tang till it bottoms out tap the wood block with mallet or hammer a few times to make sure every thing is seated fully Mind you most of the knives i do are historical reproductions with short tangs that only run partially though the handle. You might need to add something to prevent the very liquid resin from running out if the hole goes all the way though the handle. That being said i can clamp a knife handle glued this way in a vice, grab the blade with vice grips, and not be able to pull it out. That's with a 2-3" tang. ~~DJ PS be warned the knife will crackle in use if its thin enough to flex around the blade tang juncture. Its nothing to worry about in my experience.

that is one slick knife! Have you considered doing a how to video or tutorial for your website on how you do your various types of folders? I have always admired your work and i think we could all learn a fair bit from one! ~~DJ

I gotta say i got a SR series Foredom from Riogrande.com and while they were not the cheapest price out there i love the customer service there. I had some issues with the chuck on the hand piece when i got it and explained the issue and my time constraints to them and they just mailed me a replacement part and told me not to worry about it. Any place that is will to give me that level of service will get my business and my recommendation! ~~DJ

I have also had good luck with Frankincense. It smells good and is available at most heath food type stores and spice shops. Just crush it up pack it in the hole and insert the tang heated to black heat (i have never checked the temp). After i am done i let it set up and get the left over bits off the blade with a brass chisel. ~~DJ

Beaumont Metalworks has some nice ones. http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/parts.html They are not cheap but i can attest to the quality.

Cool project! You can also make a single ring that fits the inside diameter but extends past the edge and then peen/flair the silver over on to the steel on the outside. I hope that makes sense i am fairly half awake at this point! ~~DJ

Sears makes a 2x42" grinder for ~150 bucks. I used it for many years and still use it for finish handles and what not in my other shop. Belts are readily available from tru-grit, and you don't have to pay shipping. If you can wait it out and by a grinder i would. To be honest the KMG isn't that much more expensive than a Koote grinder. For 720 bucks you can get a KMG with the flat platen, and then add a contact wheel later on when cash frees up. The Koote on the other hand doesn't track as well or have the same range of accessories available and still cost 500$+. Regardless of which route you go let me know when you get the grinder if you need any help. I know some local sources for motors and have extra material for mounting plates and what not. ~~DJ