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Chris Moss

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About Chris Moss

  • Birthday 04/16/1987

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Yorktown VA
  • Interests
    knifemaking (duh)<br />I particularly like Japaneses style knives and swords. Hamons are a painting. blades are a canvas, clay is my paint, fire is my brush. the problem is.. i am still painting like Pablo Picasso.<br />i am inspired by the work of Don Fogg and Don Hanson in particular and many many many others.

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  1. Hey everybody, Finished this blade a little while ago and been holding onto it. It my favorite sword by far, but I had some big bills come through so I need to sell it to get some quick cash. I will be really sorry to see this one go, but bills come first. This is a light, small wakizashi that I built to be as fast and agile as possible while still going with a traditional design. A San Mai blade, cable Damascus sandwiching a 1095 core, distal tapered, with a gorgeous hamon . The fittings are textured copper and wrought iron, Full rayskin wrap on the handle and silk ito. The saya i
  2. This is one of 2 knives I made for fun from blades I forged on an Iron Kiss hammer. It was designed as nice user with a sturdy resilient blade, strong corrosion resistant fittings and a nice user-friendly finish. It is light in the hand and very agile. It is hair-popping sharp and comes with a stacked veggie-tan leather sheath with custom stainless belt stud and nickel coated brass snaps. I am asking $300 shipped for this knife. Please let me know if you are interested via PM or email: Knifemaker87@gmail.com. I do ask 3% additional if paying via PayPal. Redwood Burl Camp Knife
  3. Hey everybody, This is one of 2 knives I made for fun from blades I forged on an Iron Kiss hammer. It was designed as nice user with a sturdy resilient blade, corrosion resistant fittings and a nice user-friendly finish. It has a nice heft in the hand with nice palm and butt swells for a positive grip and comfortable use. The blade is nice and thick with a very strong edge made for heavy work. It is hair-popping sharp and comes with a stacked vegie-tan leather sheath with custom stainless belt stud and nickel coated brass snaps. SOLD. Please let me know if you are interested via PM o
  4. And, i got the pics from SharpBy Coop... and let me tell you... Coop has delivered! thanks guys! ~Chris
  5. the carbon fiber changes from a white to gray-black to green to light tan depending on how you look at it. it is a totally mesmerizing shift of colors as you rotate it in the light. did you check out the video? you can really see what it does in the light. thanks so much, and i am really glad yall like it. the balance point on the blade is about 0.5" in front of the guard. I think the pronounced S guard do accentuate that placement. i will also get final weight before i ship it off. it is deceivingly light. very easy to carry and use. thanks all! ~Chris
  6. thank you sir for your knid works, after being such a fan of your work that is high praise indeed! Sorry for the confusion on the bluing. I am using Perma Blue which is a cold bluing for repairing or refinishing guns. I have been wiping it on the blade with a sponge brush and then using a mixture of 2000 grit paper and 1500 grit free abrasives (and WD40) to accentuate the pattern. it is totally not a dumb question. as for the high sports. the paper does that, however the free abrasives to a little bit of work on the low spots as well, but most importantly it leaves a smoother fin
  7. I really dont have any new information for you on this post, however I do have pictures, (:D:D). I sanded the handle to 2000 grit to make everything smooth and to get out some drips in the paint. Here it is cut and ready for buffing: Here is the knife all assembled. This is a preview. I am still not quite happy with the blade; I think it will take at least one more cycle of bluing to get it where I want it, as I got some streaking on the last blueing. You can see it on the blade, but it gets better each time, and I want it to be perfect. also..I wan
  8. hey i actually painted the finger nail polish on the blade, then drew my mark on with a fine tip sharpie then removed the fingernail polish with an x-acto knife free-hand, then cleaned it up with a acetone soaked bamboo kebab skewer. it is just a sharpened piece of wood, but the tip is fibrous and cleaned up any small bit of polish inside the mark that the x-acto knife missed. i plan on getting some templates made but haven't found a good resource for them yet. i used salt as the electrolyte. I actually used my Ti anodizing set-up to do the etching. It is a variable AC power source t
  9. Thanks guys! i am really glad you like it. I am nearing the end of the project and am very happy with it. The leather for the final sheath will get here in the next day or so. While the total carbon wrap didnt work out so well, I am planning on doing a carbon fiber inlay in the sheath, and it will have the stud anodized. I think it should make a really pretty package. Before I got to the final grits of polishing I etched my mark in the blade. This is the first time I have ever etched my name, so I didnt have time to get stencils made, however I used nail polish, (my wife doesnt
  10. Hey everybody These knives are for an order i have been working on. it started as just one curved kiridashi for marking and light chisel work, and then turned into a matching set of left and right. They are 1095 with Madacassar ebony handle and peened brass pins. They needed sheaths so the new owner could carry them around in his pocket as he apparently doesn't like belts. The sheaths are some of the first leather sheaths i have actually liked. You know what they say... practice makes perfect. thanks for looking! ~Chris
  11. I got the guard cleaned up to 400 grit and ready for blasting- I didn't want there to be any scratches that showed through. Also notice how I made a cap and a plug so I wouldn't round any corners. The sand blasting was done, and I threw it back on the handle just so you can see how it fit, and what the handle looks like now.. also to 400 grit. It will be getting a 2-part epoxy clear coat in just a few days, (once it warms up to above 60 degrees). I got my anodizing setup working. The only glass container that is large enough, that I had, was a beer stein, (wo
  12. I got the gaurd set up in the vice. Using some copper to protect the face, I am holding it deep enough in the jaws that it should eliminate any warpage of the mating surface. Plus i would have to get it hot and the larger cross-section keeps it from getting too hot. So.. turn on the propane torch and get ready to do some bending! It only took about 3-4 heats to get the right bend. I used my drawing as a template.. and it is really, really close. This is why I left extra material on, because now I only have to get it as close as I can before removing the excess stock to r
  13. I got the dowel pins drill and set in the guard and spacers. With the holes set I heated the parts to pop them apart, then cleaned them and re-assembled them with short pins. Then I assembled the knife and glued the two spacers to the handle. The pins are a nice tight slip-fit so I slid the spacers off along with the handle and used the spacers as a template to drill the holes in the handle. I used both spacers in order to get enough thickness to ensure I drill the holes straight. It goes together with the pins, without gaps, and aligns perfectly every time.
  14. I am trying to figure out the cross-section of the handle where it intersects with the spacers and gaurd. I want it to be slightly smaller than the width of the guard and fit with the curves of the s-guard, so I look at my handle drawing and extrapolate lines for the slot and the height of the finished handle. Then I square the guard with the lines and trace the width of the guard on top of the lines. To get the width of the slot I line up the slot with the lines I traced for the outside of the guard and then trace along the outside of the guard that is te
  15. I decided that I wanted to make a second guard for two reasons; I wasn't quite happy with the tolerance of the first guard, and I wanted a little extra length to play around with for the curved sections of the guard. So I cut out a piece of Ti on the saw and put it in the vice on the bridgeport to make everything flat and square. Once I had the block square and to the right dimensions, I used the existing part to scribe the rough location of the slot onto the face. Now, since I had the existing part, I took the dimensions from that and figured out w
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