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Matthew Krotzer

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    N.E. Ohio, USA
  1. No argument about hard camp knives. Good to know. quote name='Brett Josef Schmidthuber' date='Apr 30 2007, 11:31 PM' post='68472'] As for flexing/bending and taps referance... Why do you think you strope? any edge no matter how finely polished looks like a hack-saw under intense magnification.. You're re-alligning those "teeth" straight. Steeling accomplishes the same purpose for "wire-edge" or very coarsely honed blades (though steeling has no place on a razor, unless you're playing a very sick practical joke on someone..). My goal with most edges is to achieve a balance between too hard/too soft.. I just feel the edge has a better fighting-chance for those little "teeth" not to break off if there is some resiliancy in them, both in shaving but primarily in stroping and re-stroping (and again and again..) - I was stupid/wrong not to mention that right off the bat and leave the wrong impression, My bad dude. Thanks for clarifiing things, I wasn't at all miffed if I came acrossed that way. It's just something I'm going to have to find out for myself and see what I want. The thread has given me a lot to think about though. quote name='Brett Josef Schmidthuber' date='Apr 30 2007, 11:31 PM' post='68472'] Speaking of hacksaws... Your friends little project sounds like a hell of a scary skinner, Though I dunno much about hacksaw hardnesses (uh oh, research time..), I would like to say he should make sure it's solid M-2 unless he's very easy when honing and it has no belly.. Alot of hacksaws have just a thin (maybe 1/16'' wide) stripe of M2 welded onto the body of the blade, at least the ones I have/have seen. Yeah, he uses old all-hard power hacksaw blades. He's been doing this stuff for years. Thanks for everything, matthew
  2. Good info I've dealt with soft stuff all my life, if I make it too hard I could always just temper it....that's my feelings at least. About the tap, know a guy who ground a skinner out of an m2 hacksaw blade, sharper edge than a straight razor. It's literally ground thinner, layed on a hone flat and lifted off the spine for the last few strokes of honing. Anyway, it's for skinning cows and nothing else. I think it is a great example of tap hard steel in use, very specific use. About the flexing, I think hardness doesn't matter. Either the edge will flex too much and break, or flex too much and bend. In the archives of the metalurgy forum this is a posting on something like this. I'm not sure how to explain it. I could be wrong all together. matthew
  3. It's amazing the difference between a thin blade and a thicker one. I lay the skinner of my stockman on the hone, the last few strokes I lift the blade a tad. It pops hairs of no trouble at all, only good for a couple of things though. So, did you keep your razors in the proportions Mike talked about? matthew I think I recall the old guys saying the big razors shaved better because of the weight. I recently moved my forge back to a shed, so I lost my electric blower. I may make a gas forge....not sure yet, haven't had a lot of time for smithing. I got a lot of the bugs worked out of my heat treating I think. I can see the decalescence and all that. I will post some pics if I do this. matthew
  4. Those mukluks are cute, nice work. I'm still trying to comprehend mukluks in tuscon........ matthew
  5. Thanks guys, gonna have to try and make some mead.
  6. Would that be pretty simial to cases CV steel or are they by chacne using something proprietary? matthew
  7. I've been reading the original posters link with great interest. Thanks So Geoff, is it possible to create your own yeast from the starter you use. Say, like sour dough or miso? matthew
  8. Hmmm, just my personal opinion, but I think it's a waste of money. Knife laws very a lot by county, township, and city ordnances. I live in ohio, my state does not care what I carry. The local governments......who knows, everything is illegal if you ask a cop. I live in a town, just outside city limits.....the area is small enough where I can be in and out of probably a dozen juristictions. I imagine they all have different laws regarding this. matthew ohio
  9. I've never brewed mead, or anything else for that matter. I've looked into it a bit, seems like you need to age it quite a while for the best product. There is an israeli producer of mead, it's rather sweet as far as I recall. matthew
  10. Just thought about this a little harder, and a tap is a good real world example I think. Ultra hard an purpose specific + good heat treatment. Cool post. I feel its easier to get a great edge with harder steel. Just my preference and limited experience. And yeah, having two relatively small bearing surfaces keeps things nice. I never liked hollow grinds until I layed a hollow ground knife flat on a stone. When I get my heat treating down I'll give a flat ground razor a try, no cold-treatment. See if I like it. matthew
  11. Sounds cool! Jim Hrsoulas' master bladesmith book shows the use of beding forks or a stepped bic. Bending forks are easiest iirc. The newest edition of the $50 knife shop shows a bottom tool made from a sledge hammer and a special hammer as top tool. "The world of the javanese keris" has a couple pages on forging. Although the kriss was straight and not unulating. (both are traditional) Goddard says he saw the setup he uses in a kids video from indonesia or something. Grinding is to wasteful for the culture/times..... I think the best way is with forks......but I've never done it. matthew
  12. Thanks for all the info. I'm not at all setup to heat-treat stainless properly. With the cold-treat, even with dumb 1095 I can increase the hardness. I figure for something that is only for cutting, I want a ultra-hard blade. If the heat treating is right there shouldn't be any trouble. Seems to me the people who get crumbly edges aren't doing their heat-treating right. If someone wants to correct me on this please do, just qoute a metalurgy source. I figure a ultra-hard edge should shear off rather than crumble. Stainless is pretty much not on my list for anything If I had the heat treating technology I would go for higher alloyed tool steels, like m2. Something else I just though about, I always heard barbers favored wedge grinds. I think it's probably easier to keep a hollow ground of fullered blade honed properly. matthew
  13. Been thinking of doing a straight razor once I get my heat-treating down. Thinking about the traditional ones I have makes me wonder how much of the design is a result of a production enviroment. Just like modern knife manufactures make a trade-off or just make crap. How much of straight razor design is about tools/cost to produce? Are razors made at x angle because it's the best angle or did factory settings dictate the dimensions. All the ones I have are a hollow grind of some degree with the backs being about 1/4 inch thick, the biggest being 5/8 inchs wide. Wanted to get a bigger 6/8, 7/8. or even 8/8 but never did. I often wander what size tha backs are of the larger razors, anyone know? The bigger razors are known for being better shavers, I wonder if the edge is more acute than the smaller ones. I'll have to try one..... My beard is pretty coarse, I can sharpen a razor to hair popping performance but it doesn't shave me that good. My feather disposable blade straight razor does very well. Mayeb the edge is thinner and more acute? Something else to think about is the blade angle to my face. I think I would naturally adjust for a more acute angle. Then you gotta figure out what angle the steel can take for the facial hair........ If I made one, it would be a simple carbon steel, and have some some kind of cold treatment. any thoughts, matthew
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