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matt trout

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    Tusquittee valley Hayesville, NC
  • Interests
    All things hot and sharp, Damascus steel, flint knapping, Hard Rock, prehistoric tools, Cold Beer

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  1. Bob Found the manual for that hammer on line last night. It had the dimensions and required footer for the hammer. After much measuring and figuring in the shop this morning I do not think I can get it in there. An upright hammer (Bradley compact, little giant, ...) will fit but the rectangular footprint is an issue for me. As much as I hate it, I need to pass on this one. Thanks for response very cool hammer. Not sure how far apart we are but have to get together sometime. Matt
  2. Bob, I may have a place in my shop for the hammer. Just getting set up in Hayesville NC. Been a five year move nut here full time now. Let me know if still available. Thanks Matt
  3. Excellent job, amazing how we all seem to gravitate to Damascus, ebony and silver (plus) when making a knife for a special lady.
  4. Nickle silver is mostly copper (about 60% if I remember) the rest being nickel and zinc equally split. The high copper content makes it an easy "sweat" to copper in mokume. The zinc makes it tricky to forge or shape hot. I have converted 1' round bar to 1/4 inch flat bar using a press. Only heated to the point of being slippery or wet. Any hotter resulted in cracks and crumbles.
  5. Thanks Bob for the complement and sorry for the phone photo of the Trenton. all I had in shop today and can't seem to resize down so looks good. But you get the idea NewFace plate all of welding rod Matt
  6. Herman, Both the buildup rods and hard facing rods are still available from Stoody. Here in the states Airgas often have them in stock but I am sure you can find them on the net. If you have exposed cast iron you can face over it with a stainless welding rod if you preheat. Much more economical than pure nickel rods. I have used both and seem to work fine. For the corners I lay the anvil on its side and run a bead on and off the side building out toward the face. I peened the 2110 build up rod after each pass to relieve stress and work harden. Those rods respond well and you can feel a difference when hammering. Since you are limited on number of passes with the 1105 I found it helpful to keep the rod very perpendicular to the face and maintain a very large puddle to get the slag on top. I only have an old AC normal polarity cracker box welder but it worked fine. Here is a photo of the 175lb trenton after restoring and 4 years of use. It is the same one shown in my previous post with a busted off face plate . I essentially rebuilt the face off the cast iron. It took about $100 in rods, 6 seven and a half inch grinding wheels, a 60 grit and 120 grit flap wheel. Total time was about 2.5 days. So a 50 dollar piece of yard art is now my main anvil. So far it is holding up well and has super clean sharp straight corners. Hope this helps Matt
  7. If you are going to resell the anvil don't touch it - If you are going to use it I would fix it. I have restored seven anvils, many in much worse shape with great results. No expensive machine shop time just lots of personal time. The basic technique was written up by Robb Gunther and Karl Schuler The Forgery School of Blacksmithing published in ANVIL Magazine, April 1998. It is still out on there in several places. The grinding and then marking with a straight edge and grinding can take a huge amount of time but all have came back with great rebound, clean edges, etc.. I am attaching a before and after on an anvil I restored for my Dad. It has been in the family since before the Civil war and deemed worthless 75 years ago when the face plate delaminated. Working hard again now. I finished filling the pits on the face but did not get a final photo. The third photo is my anvil before restoring. Face plate broken off. I have been using it for 4 years and can get a photo if anyone wants it. Just my thoughts but have had very good success with this process Matt
  8. Micarta comes in many forms and types. Paper, linen, canvas, carbon fiber..... Each has a different look. I sand micarta thru 400 grit then buff on cotton wheel with 600 grit. No finish oil or wax required, I don't use a lot of it as most of my blades are Damascus and I prefer a more natural looking handle. It definitely has a place on some blades, esp. when combined with kydex sheath
  9. As promised, similar piece I just finished sheath for. My Damascus, 304 stainless bolsters on this one and gabon ebony scales. I tried four different sheath styles for these small knives (pouch, Scandinavian single loop, sort of a double loop angle carry, and this wrapped horizontal). Thought this one was the best match. The two folks who saw this one in shop both thought I was using micarta. I had to explain to them that ebony was what micarta and plastic was made to look like. Thanks, Matt
  10. Thanks Josh, The pattern is just forged flat, then the spines and cutting edges thinned down a bit on anvil. Then I surface ground them - classic stock removal. Yes they are full tang and the bolsters are peinned brass. Always interesting to me how the brass rod almost disappears in Nickle silver once buffed. Attached a top view photo. I am completing another small companion carry, hopefully this week. Different sheath design. Will try and post photos of it also. Thanks, Matt
  11. Just finished these for a friend165 layer 1095 and 15N20 Damascus, south Tx. ebony and nickel silver bolsters. I have been working on these two designs for a while. The larger piece has a slight expanding handle. Not my normal style but feels good. Have not posted or done much in shop in a while. Been to busy trying to stay employed in oil crash. Questions and comments welcome Matt
  12. Thanks Miles, I have been working on those small drop point designs for several years. Sort of a pocket knife alternative. Here is another one that is my more typical handle shape for that blade. The ebony shows the meatier top and a slight palm swell. This one said he liked the scales thin and handles straight - so we aim to please. I used a triangle file on these, need to invest in a good set of needle files. Matt
  13. Thanks, still experimenting with the multi color dyeing. I still prefer the solid black or brown but sometimes want to do something different. Have a couple more elaborate ones in the works. Will try to post when completed. Matt
  14. Have not posted anything in a while, thought I would throw these two out there. Custom order for a friend in N.C. Matched pair of clip point and small horizontal carry drop point. Blades are 99 layer voodoo (left –then right twist) 1095-15N20 damascus, roughly forged to shape, ground, oil quenched tempered twice. 304 stainless bolsters-pins-guards, All peened . Brass inserts in guard that do not show up in photo – once again phone photo challenged. I tried a bit of file work on the backs, need to practise that some more. Scales are lacewood that I stabilized with epoxy under vacuum. Sheaths are 9-10 oz cowhide. I used a tri-weave stamp for tooling and swiped black dye over the high spots in one direction before dying the entire sheath. Gives a different look. As always comments/suggestions welcome. Matt
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