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Marius A Bacher

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  • Location
    Norway
  • Interests
    3D Graphics, Koryu, Weapons, Tactics, Religion, Nihonto and all sharp pointy things...
  1. Hi Alveprins. Edit to say, Awesome work!! I use BND Abrasives & Tapes Limited in the UK, just got a new batch of 50x2000mm belts from them. Great service and good price. I got 30 SIA 2803 Zirc belts in 36P and 12 SIA 2920 AO belts in 60P and paid right under 2000kr shipped + 25% import tax. I'm really happy with the Zirc belts! Haven't tried the AO yet, but I plan on using them for wood so they should work fine .
  2. Wow! Beautiful knife Steve. What kind of gun bluing did you use?
  3. Wow! Lots of cool stuff here! Here's a new one for me, I haven't made a full tang knife before and now I'm going to make four... It's obviously not done yet but I haven't posted in a long time so. Keep posting your hamon guys
  4. Hi Simon, Nice blade! I also use an electric kiln to heat treat my blades, I had the same problem with scale and I found that putting a couple of pieces of charcoal in with the blade reduces the scale to almost nothing. Marius
  5. Hi guys! Here's a quick update. The hammer is running smoothly again and it's quick and responsive like new, thanks to John Nicholson from Massey Forging and James R. Johnson from Anyang USA they are great guys and very helpful. Thank you both! It looks like it was just my lack of maintenance that made the hammer hiccup, but I blame the weird Norwegian user manual
  6. WOW! That's beautiful and scary all at the same time, it looks terrifying That geometry kills Great combination of steel too, a question for you guys. Am I on the right track in thinking that the part of the pattern that has the long white wispy Hamon is the W2 and the layers with the sharper transition is the 1075 because of the difference in Manganese content and the results on hardenability? It looks awesome and is thought provoking too. Thanks for sharing!
  7. Awesome work Jesus! I really like the geometry of the Kissaki. Thanks for sharing
  8. It was a good thought I'm using a 100% synthetic oil called SEA 5W-40 Gulf Formula G, I switched to that a couple of years ago to cut down on the warm up time in cold weather. It's probably a good idea to oil every moving part, I'll start doing that, I've just sprayed down the whole thing with WD40 and pulled a trash bag over it for winter. I'm not sure what you mean with turnbuckle adjustment on the treadle? The treadle has very little (if any) play side to side on the bottom. Because of my handicap I operate the hammer a little different than most, I sit on the floor and operate t
  9. I've "fixed" the control mechanism issue, it seemed to be just a binding thing, it just suddenly loosened while I was tinkering with it and trying to find out what was limiting the travel. Btw. it looks like every part of the control mechanism that has a potential to spin on an axle has both a set screw and a locating/locking pin that goes through the axle... So there's no way of that happening. All that said it still isn't operating normally, the top die still doesn't go all the way up inside the top and it's definitely not as crisp and firm in operation as it has been. Any ideas?
  10. Hi Sam. That actually might be it! I'm pretty sure it's not just the arrow, because of the difference in function and yes I think there's some loss in power too, but it might be that the treadle has spun on the axle. Why didn't I think of that? All I was thinking about was a failed gasket or poor lubrication somewhere I'd missed.. Any idea how to recalibrate/realign the treadle and valve axle? Thanks a lot, Sam. I'll check it to morrow... It's 12:38 AM here now and I doubt my neighbors will appreciate me running my hammer now.
  11. Hi guys. I have an Anyang C41-15 (33lbs) power hammer, I'm verry happy with it, but the other day something happened. The top die stopped going all the way up and disappearing in the top cylinder, now it shows 40 - 50mm of the top die. I've also noticed that the travel of the control mechanism is limited, the indicator arrow used to go all the way from the top to the bottom of the brass plate. Here's a video of the hammer running, notice that it starts to hammer even when I turn it on. And here's video of the limited travel of the control mechanism. Do you guys have any idea wh
  12. Thanks Brent. Here's a before and after Yakiire on the Bowie. I have more of them, if you like I'll post more. I don't think there's too much to learn from these for anybody else, but I do them to see how close I can get with what changes to my routine. As you can see I'm not close at all yet.
  13. Hi guys! Ohh... there's a lot of great Hamon here, keep'em coming! Here's a Bowie I'm working on, it's the first blade I've used Nugui on (just red ironoxide and peanut oil) it helped with the contrast a lot more than I thought it would. Marius
  14. Great work and a very informative thread! That tomahawk has beautiful geometry. I know exactly what you mean about working with files and not taking the risk on the grinder. I feel the same way. Have you tried working with a Sen? I can't believe how small the hammer looks when somebody is standing beside it. I always look up on the thing. Thanks for sharing!
  15. Awesome work Niels! And I must say that is a beautifully produced video, I can't wait to see the next installment. Thanks for Sharing!
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