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Doug Lester

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Doug Lester last won the day on June 16 2020

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About Doug Lester

  • Birthday 03/01/1949

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  • Location
    Decatur, IL
  • Interests
    knives, swords, history

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  1. You would probably have to rig some system to hang the knives in that kiln to prevent the blades from sagging from being stood on end. You will also need to be wearing a face shield and infra-red filtering glasses to save the skin on your face and your eye sight. Doug
  2. One other thing that I just noticed in rechecking you photos. Get rid of that glove on your hammer hand. It will rob you of control. A welder's glove is better for your off hand. It will protect your lower arm better and will be faster to get off if you overheat it, and you will overheat your gloves. Doug
  3. I would like to recommend to you [i]The Master Bladesmith[/i] by Jim Hrisoulas and keep it by your bedside for light reading. As far as tools go you might find some hammers at a hardware store that aren't too heavy. I also started out with files. Get the biggest bastard file that you can find for the initial hogging off the steel and getting rid of the dings. Smaller files in 2nd and smooth cuts will help you refine the surface before going to sandpaper. Speaking of files, get a file card and use it frequently and look up draw filing. Glad to have you aboard. Dou
  4. You might also want to check the height of you anvil face. Differing opinions but you need to try to have it at about knuckle height. Also, if your hammer face has any sharp edges try to grind them smooth. Try to make sure that you are bringing your hammer down flat on the work and don't try to hit the steel as hard as you can. That might reduce the hammer marks on the blade, at least the deep ones. The fewer hammer marks you leave on the blade the fewer you will have to grind out. Doug
  5. That's a nicely composed photo. Doug
  6. I do like the shape of the sword but over 3 1/2 lbs is heavy for something that size. I think that part of the problem is the thickness of the steel. Also, does it have any distal taper in the thickness? Doug
  7. I have some experience in acid bluing fittings. I exposed them to muratic acid fumes in a container to build up a layer of rust, brushed it back a bit with a steel brush, and repeated the acid fumes in a container until I was satisfied and then boiled the part in water. The parts came out almost black; not like the gun blued parts in the picture. I'm trying to remember, which is hard at my age, but I believe that someone made a solution of table salt in hydrogen peroxide to build up the rust on the fitting. Of course if that fails you could just pee on it until you're satisfied
  8. As far as exposure to heat, if it's hot enough to draw the temper it's probably hot enough to kill you. However, if it falls into a hot fire the temper would be drawn and ruin the blade. As far as cold goes, Jaro made a good point, it has to get extremely cold to increase the brittleness in blade steels. Doug
  9. Keep us posted. This ought to be good. Doug
  10. Outstanding knife. I'm sure that your workmate will be thrilled. Doug
  11. After you get the new burner, get it running and see how hot the sides of the hard fire brick get (carefully). If they get really hot, like you can't touch them, then at least cover it with something that will keep the heat in and protect you from burning yourself on the hot bricks. Doug
  12. Not only is the burner too small the hard fire brick is not very insulating. They can provide a lot of mass to hold the heat but you would need to wrap it in soft fire brick or insulating ceramic matting to help it hold heat even more. Doug
  13. Unlike Jerrod, I'm not a metallurgist but I would not attempt that steel unless I had a regulated heat treating over because of the high carbon content and complex metallurgy. I don't know what the steel availability is in Denmark but I would recommend that you stick with a steel that you can handle with the forge that you have, like the 1070 and the 1080CrV2 (80CrV2?). The size of the grain in that blade would indicate that it was overheated. Not uncommon starting out. Welcome aboard and keep working. Doug
  14. I second Alan on the hardware on the scabbard. That is just first class work. Doug
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