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Doug Lester

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Everything posted by Doug Lester

  1. Heat treating 5160 is pretty straight forward. Go to "Heat Treating by Alloy" and you should find it. Doug
  2. That is fantastic for a third knife, especially if you are restricted to less than ideal tools. Doug
  3. My opinion, worthless as it is, is much like George Silvers'. However, I'm really interested in seeing what you do with it. Doug
  4. Looking at you pictures of the burner assembly I instantly started wondering where your air inlet was. I'm not seeing where it was getting any air. Alan's idea of going to High Temperature Tools and Refractory and get the whole outfit that has what you need to go from the propane tank to the forge. If you have a hot shop that has an electrical supply I'd recommend that you go to a blown forge. Doug
  5. Matt Easton on Scalagladitoria has presented full tang "patent" hilts on sabers. Some with clef or lap welded soft iron tangs, but this is in the industrial era. Get into earlier Alan is quite correct, except for the dussacks and messers, European swords had a through tang. Doug
  6. Overall good work. From first glance at the finished pictures I would have said that it was historically incorrect. Glad you included the illustrations of an historical example so I didn't make a fool of myself, again. The only thing that I don't like is the hammer marks left up near the spine. I would have gotten rid of them by extending the flat grind all the way to the spine but I have to admit that it's just my taste. Also, dealing with a corroded blade as an example I can't really argue that the hammer marks were always ground out. Doug
  7. USA Knife Maker sells hand cranked blowers. It says that it's for wood fueled forged but I see no reason why it wouldn't work for coal fired forges. Doug
  8. If you have a band or table saw to re-cut your wood you could try looking at some wood turning outfits and look out for seconds. I got a 12" spindle blank of Lignum vitae that had one edge missing about one third of it's length. I still got a couple of blocks and scales for a whole lot less than I would have been able to get them from a knife making supply house. Even if you buy a good quality spindle or bowl blank you can still save a lot of money by cutting your own blocks and scales from them. It will also give control over the direction of the grain. Doug
  9. They all seem to sound like a jet engine warming up. See how well it heats up. Doug
  10. Great work. One thing that a power rotary tool will really help you do is screw up in a hurry, as in there's going to be a learning curve. You do real good work with those knives. Just say'n. Doug
  11. First of all, no blade, stainless or not, is dishwasher safe. Getting bounced around by the water will dull the edge and the chemicals in the dish washer cleaner will attack the steel, even stainless. If you want to go forward, try Micarta or G10. A marine epoxy will stand up to the heat of a dishwasher better than what you'll find at a hardware store. Doug
  12. With O1 you're not going to get a hamon by clay coating, it's too hardenable. You could do an edge quench and etch to show the quench line though. Doug
  13. That is outstanding for a first knife. What is the steel? How did you heat treat it? What is the wood used for the handle? Oh ya, over all specs would be nice too. Doug
  14. I watched the Smithsonian Channel last night about there series on the development of weapons. Usually it's pretty informative but last night two of the three segments were ridiculous. One was the history of the Roman scorpion catapult. A nice segment on how it worked but then they started going on about armor penetrating ability of the bolts when the enemy they fought against did wear armor. What was more ridiculous was then they fired the bolts at 1 mm sheet steel backed by wood planks and got all excited about about 1/2" penetration that the head got as if that would be significant if armor had been worn. The second piece of garbage was when they tested the armor penetrating of the European long sword, or two handed sword, and the Japanese katana. They nailed a sheet of 1 mm sheet steel between two posts and tested how well the two types of swords cut the steel from the edge. Which 1) ignored the fact that ancient was not made of 1 mm cold rolled steel sheet and 2) plate armor was not attacked from the edge. Then they had a penetration test by attacking with the point of both swords against unsupported; as in no mail, no gambisan, and no ballistics dummy; as if it meant anything. Doug
  15. EN45 is equivalent to our 9260. The low carbon content and the silicon in it gives it some toughness. Because of that you'll find that alloy being used in swords and big choppers, if you can find it[i/]. There was only one outlet for 9260 here in the states and they stopped carrying it a few years ago. Now it's unavailable here unless you want to buy a couple of tons at a time. Doug
  16. Some problems have silver linings. I think that you will be happier with Kast-O-Lite than you will with the Satinite. You'll be patching and rebuilding your forge less often. Doug
  17. Still having problems with computer gremlins, thanks for the explanation. Doug
  18. I couldn't access the site but thanks for trying. Doug
  19. If you can hold out until around the 20th of June you might give the Atlas knifemakers anvil another look. It has different radius' on the edges. The front edge appears to have a large radius that will do the same thing as a round horn, also known as a bick, that can be used to draw out a bar of steel or help put an upward curve in the blade. Another thing is that they have a 3/4" hardy hole that could hold a bick tool or a guillotine tool that will do the same thing for you. Doug Oops! I just read your last post. I hope you enjoy your Kanca. It will serve you well. For anyone else, consider the Atlas for the reasons that I've stated. I haven't used a horn for knife making in ages. The main reason that I want the Atlas is for the hardy hole to use my hardy tools with.
  20. Very nice job. Maybe I'll try my hand at a puukko when I get set back up in the forge. Doug
  21. I emailed Atlas last night and this mourning they emailed back that their target date for having more of the 67 lb knifemakers anvils in is June 20, just in case anyone's interested. Doug
  22. Thanks for the replies guys. When I woke up this morning it just sort of popped into my head what the name was. The Atlas Knife & Tool anvil is the one that I had been looking for. It's light enough that I can bolt it down to the stand and then use my hand cart to roll it back into the garage without too much trouble to keep it from growing legs like my last two anvils did. I may have be mistaken about USA Knifemaker Supply having carried it. The Black Robin model is interesting but it doesn't have a hardy hole, anyway they're out of stock at this time. Doug I just had a look at their site and realized that the 67 lb anvil is out of stock. Bummer.
  23. Does anyone remember the make of the block anvil with a hardy hole that came out not too long ago. I think that it weighed in at about 70-80 lbs. I thought that it was listed on USA Knifemaker Supply but I went to that site and it was not listed If anyone remembers what it's called and who handles it I'd appreciate it. Doug
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