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Doug Lester

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Everything posted by Doug Lester

  1. If I find a wood that needs to be stabilized, no matter how pretty it looks, I look for another wood. An exception to that might a nice piece of burl wood. I share Geoff's opinion of Osage Orange (the North American variety). It's not exactly fancy and it's not exactly plain but it oxidizes to a russet brown with a deep luster. That wood has been used for fence posts that stood up for decades. Doug
  2. I had an 86# block of H-13 that was my best anvil until someone cleaned me out of almost all of my tools. I had a leg vice that would hold my hardy tools, it was just a little high. So you don't need a classical anvil to do your work on. Anyway, I'm glad it's working out for you. Doug
  3. Both are top notch but the pattern on the first blade is outstanding. Doug
  4. Others may not agree but I like to cool to black and check the blade with a magnet to be sure that phase change has occurred before returning the steel to the forge.. The magnet should stick to the steel. Doug
  5. Ya, I guess it's one of those cases where you wish you could really examine the blade. Doug
  6. Looks good. I see from your layout lines how you are going to deal with that bolt hole. My one concern is the thickness of the stock that you started out with. My impressions from the khurkuris that I have made from the car springs is that they're rather thick and might produce an overly heavy blade. But all in all I think that it's coming along nicely. Keep posting your progress. Doug
  7. I agree with Charles. Especially #1, even though I wasn't able avail myself of classes.. Remember that Charles lives in a smaller country and isn't faced with traveling from central Illinois to eastern Arkansas or Montana or any other distant place. One thing that I noticed is it doesn't appear in the photos that you gave it much of a primary bevel. I'd try to take it up more to the spine. It's a must that you learn to make the steel do what you want it to do. If you haven't started a library, videos included, on knife making. I would suggest [i]The Master Bladesmith[/i] by Jim Hrisoulas to start with. Kevin Cashin has some good videos that you can find on the American Bladesmith Society store. Doug
  8. Very clean looking work. They look like they would make you want to go chop some wood, almost. Doug
  9. Love the handle and guard. I can't imagine the process of enamaling wood. The sword makes you want to pick it up to see how it feels. Doug
  10. Top notch work The long one looks like it has some mosaic work in it. Doug
  11. As illustrated by the museum picture, organic parts of a knife/sword rarely survive so it's hard to say that your selection of handle material is wrong. I agree that the handle of the knife is as impressive as the blade and I am handy to see that you chose to duplicate the stub tang on the blade. As you see from the museum photo, the size and shape of the tangs can vary a lot. The smaller knife is also quite impressive. You, sir, have real talent. Doug
  12. The more I look at it the better it gets. Doug
  13. Amazing little boot knife. Doug
  14. Top notch work, Faye. I'm sure you sister loves it. Doug
  15. Great looking! What are the dimensions of the sword? Doug
  16. Good job. I like the slight recurve to the blade. Doug
  17. That's one great looking knife. Handle carving is above first rate. Doug
  18. Don't worry too much about how the knife turned out. If you're not making mistakes you're not trying hard enough. You have been given good advice, now go make another blade. Doug
  19. I never heard of them before. Your two look great, especially to first (or bottom) one. Thanks for putting up pictures of your work. BTW, how are the two pieces joined at the dovetail, just friction? Doug
  20. Great looking job. Well done. Doug
  21. Sounds a little backwards but the way I learned to spot decalescence is to heat the steel to yellow (I've never seen cherry red in my forge under any ambient light situation) and check for the recalesence. The shadow passing over the steel looks the same but it's as the returns to a dark red. They're both caused by the steel giving up energy to change phases. Doug
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