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Doug Lester

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Everything posted by Doug Lester

  1. This is something that enterests me so lets see if I have it right. First you start out with a centered hole as one normally would from the front of the handle block. Then you drill another hole from the bottom end of the block that will intercept the first hole at the apex of the curve. I take it that it the hole would also have to entersect where the tang would end if the tang doesn't run all the way through the block. When the tang is burned into the wood block, the hot end will follow the path of least resistance, i.e. the hole. If the handle is other than wood, some sort of a filing gizmo will have to be use with a lot of fussing and cussing untill the channel is opened enough to pass the tang all the way. Assuming that I get all this done and I haven't destroyed the handle by throwing it repeatedly across the room, I take it there will be some slack in the tang groove that will have to be filled up with epoxy and the end of the handle will have to be capped off with something to hide the hole in the butt end. I also assume that the shallower and more even that I make the curve of the tang the easier life will be with me and I may not end up throwing the handle block across the room quiet so many times. Doug Lester
  2. Great looking knife. Love the file work, simple but well exicuted. Please post a picture when you have it finished. I'd love to see what you do with the handle. Doug Lester
  3. Jeroen, the picture of the first blade with the sheath made up of wood strips is exactly like the one Oakeshott has a drawing of in "The Archiology of Weapons", at least the sheath and the handle of the seax do; the knife is in it's sheath in Oakeshott's drawing. It is from the late Roman period in Britian. Doug Lester
  4. Supurb craftsmanship. Doug Lester
  5. Ben, another place you might find info on seaxs is www.myarmoury.com. Just run a search on that site and you can come up with a lot of info on anchant weaponry. Doug Lester
  6. Ben, I think that I have to warn you that making those things can get to be habit forming. I've got two designs rattling around in my head (plenty of free space there) while I'm waiting to order some 1 1/2" stock. Doug Lester
  7. Just goes to show you that Webster doesn't know everything Asking when a short seax, handseax, becomes a long seax, langseax, is like asking at what length does a dagger become a sword. The seax was used throughout Europe for over a thousand years and still survives in various blade shapes. Depending on time and place, design varies extensively. The broken back seax, which I think a lot of people bring to mind when they read the word "seax", was pretty much confined to Saxon England, even though it really wasn't the seax of the Saxons that gave them their name. They all also didn't have a staight edge from the heal of the blade to the point. Seax's from the Migration Period, at least the examples that I've seen pictured, tend to be broader and have a curved full tange that comes straight off the spine of the blade. They also had more of a spear or drop point. I believe that Oakeshotte would support those last observations. The tangs of later seax's are more like stub or stick tangs that form out of the center of the blade. Most had no type of guard but some did. Some may well have had a curved blade. Ewart Oakeshott noted that some were concave instead of convex on the edge side. The Norweagan Vikings were fond of a single edged straight backed sword with an upper and lower guard and pommel, just like a double edged sword, which is often refered to as a seax. It was frequently longer than the double edged swords of before before the 10th century with which it is contemporary. The term scramaseax is found in only one historical reference, according to Oakeshott, in an account of the murder of a Frankish king. He felt that I probably refered to a shorter weapon that was used more like a standard fighting knife. Besides Ewart Oakeshotte's various book, "The Archeology of Weapons" is probably the best and most available of his works, you might also want to find "The Sword in Anglo-Saxon England" by Hilda Davidson. What I have is the corrected edition published in 1994. Some of these books are out of print but can be obtained from used books stores or borrowed from a library. Amazon.com is a good place to look for books that are currently being printed and even has some that are out of print that are being sold by private sellers and used book stores. Doug Lester
  8. That knife is coming along nicely. Keep up that quality of work finishing it and it should be fantastic. By the way, I'd forget the kevlar vest; it won't even slow that blade down. Doug Lester
  9. Thanks, Jake, that was an amazing tutorial. Got me thinking about doing a casting project. One thing, what do you use as a flux for casting bronze? Doug Lester
  10. when you cut your finger while filing a blade and you figure that you had to annoint it with your blood sometime anyhow and you keep on working.
  11. Ben, seeing as how a lot of people complained about Admiral switching to it from L6, not knowing that they never had L6 but sold the 8670M thinking it was L6, I'd treat it just like L6. Doug Lester
  12. Do what your physical therapist and orthopedic surgeon tell you. What others have experienced with similar injuries may or may not apply to you. I feel for you. When I was in the Reserves a guy in my unit said that there had to be a special place in Hell for physical therapits and he was one. Doug Lester
  13. Aint that ugly. That handle should develope a nice petina for you. Doug Lester
  14. You know that they're spring steel so they should be of an alloy that will make a good knife and the price was right, the only thing to watch for is that used springs can have fatigue fractures in them. I'd forge them out flat and give them a good look before spending my time making a knife. Doug Lester
  15. Yes, our kids grow up and make their own way and all we can do is pray about it. Our parents, grandparents, aunts, uncles, and the like said their prayers for us when we started out. I had a nephew over in the big sand box as a civilian contractor trying to get experience as a fire fighter so he could maybe get a leg up on getting a job stateside. I was sure glad that his boss put him behind a desk shuffling paperwork 12 hours a day, 7 days a week and Scott told him that he went over to Iraq to fight fires and came back home. Too bad it cost him his marrage. Doug Lester
  16. This is the problem dealing with mystery metal, you'll have to experiment with it to find out how to heat treat it and the like and what works for one band saw blade could be slightly, or substancially, different form the next band saw blade. If you are talking about free steel, it may be worth your time to play with it, but I wouldn't put any money into it. You might look up the data for L6 and use that AS A STARTING POINT. Doug Lester
  17. Truelly awsome With the full tang I would call it more of a grossemesser but about the only difference between the falchion and the messer is the tang and the pommel. Can hardly wait to see it finished. Doug Lester
  18. Looks real good and talk about a blade design that looks like it was made to go into a warthog's tooth. Doug
  19. Reminds me of one of the Antique Roadshow episodes where some guy brought in a gen-u-wine Conferderate officer's sword that he bought from a web site for a real good price. The appraiser informed him that the sword was made in India and was distressed by someone to look like it was old. Leason...buy only from reputable dealers who will give a money back guarentee if the item turns out to be fake. On thing from the add from the langeseax that stands out is the claim that Vikings carried them along with a sword. From what I have read, even though that may have happened, they were usually carried by the average ground pounder who couldn't afford a sword. May not necessarily point it out as a fake but usually legitamate dealers are also experts in what they deal in and know the history of the items. Another thing, my mother always told me that if something looks too good to be true it probably isn't. Doug Lester
  20. That's one of the reasons that I like to buff with my knife clamped in my knife vise and using my hand drill with a buffing wheel on it. Remember the basics, do not have the wheel over the bench. Use the bottom half of the wheel only. Keep something below the buffer that can catch the blade or at least decrease the bounce. Keep your arms in tight and use your body to move the blade across the wheel. Do not hold a cloth in your hands while buffing. There are probably a few others but those are all that I thought of off hand. Doug Lester
  21. I had a buddy when I was stationed out in 'Diego decide that he was going to take a pot shot at the blade of an abandoned bulldozer when he was out shooting targets in the desert. He was shooting a lever action .45-70 and the bullet came back and smacked him over the sternum. Left a nasty little bruise and took the starch out of his legs for a while. Doug Lester
  22. Two things that I can think of not knowing any more than you've told us, first how thick are you leaving the edge of the blade? Taking it down too thin can cause problems. Another is that I had problems with a edge quenched blade coming out looking like a potato chip once because I got it too hot. That's why I like to heat my blades for quenching in a kiln, if I can, so that I can control the temperature better. I monitor the heat with a pyrometer. Doug Lester
  23. Alan, you've got me thinking (need I explain how dangerous that can be ) and I came up with two ideas. One is to get a plate of metal, guess that it really doesn't HAVE to be steel though it probably will be, and make a little sway or dip in it and lay it across the anvil face. The other would be to get a sizable piece of end grain wood and put a little dip in it and use a wooden mallet or a wooden rod to take the kinks out of a blade. The thinking is that the wood wouldn't mar the steel. Doug Lester
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