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      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Dan P.

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Dan P. last won the day on October 11 2016

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    Cotswolds, UK

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  1. There are photos showing the rough ground and etched blade toward the end of the thread I linked. To my knowledge it was the first and perhaps the only successful attempt to recreate the pattern (or at least a "proof of concept" for the most significant elements) since the original was forged in the 8th century. Jesus' effort was a different method of construction to the original. I don't believe he was going for a strict reconstruction. Edit; Patrick Barta has also recreated the Vehmaa sword. If you aren't familiar with his work, he is, in my opinion, one of the foremost smiths recreating these kinds of swords.
  2. Today's lesson; Do not arc weld when you have anti-scale compound all over your hands. Especially if you are one of those idiots who welds without gloves. The graphite it contains works as a wonderful conductor for electricity. Bzzzzzzt!
  3. Welded on bolsters? That's hardcore! *begins slow clap*
  4. Your bearings would presumably be mounted on the body of your machine or on their own pillow blocks. Whether the bearings are mounted on the spindle or on your contact wheel I guess depends on whether you want your contact wheel to be your drive wheel (as with the ones you have, I guess).
  5. Perhaps, but as long as we can disagree in a civil manner my (many and various) personality flaws shouldn't really matter too much.
  6. I don't want to step on your toes or anything, Garry, but it seems that putting the first x number of knives in the reject drawer is how one learns? Having that big pile of whoopsies gives you the confidence of not just knowing the right way to do it, but knowing many of the wrong ways of doing it too. Knowing which route leads where, in a manner of speaking. But if you want your knives to look like they were milled, perhaps better to get a milling machine? To answer your question, I don't view jigs in a negative light, rather I view taking the time to learn your business, whether for fun or for profit, in a very positive light. File guides are different, I can see their use, though I don't use one myself. I feel like I would need a guide to put the guide on straight.
  7. It may be that not all ductile iron anvils are equal, but those I've worked on have all fully complied with specification Sh1-T.
  8. In my experience the time and/or money you spend making or buying sharpening or grinding jigs is better spent practicing sharpening or grinding by eye. I have found that getting to know the work intimately by feel rather than just the theory pays dividends in adaptability and speed, with no compromise in quality.
  9. Perhaps, but if you should ever want to try a recreation of the Vehmaa sword again, you might pick up some tips here;
  10. Exciting! I was sad to have missed the last one.
  11. I had the South African version of this, Okapi brand. Quite well known, I think.
  12. I use a bouncy castle blower on my forge. I have a small collection of bouncy castle blowers, actually, and they are not all made equal. The one I use is the crappiest, weakest, and looks most like a kosher forge blower. If I may add, modulating blast via blower motor speed is very inefficient. Much better to fit a slide valve on your forge, which allows you to turn the blast from completely ON to completely OFF and back again in seconds. I have been down the dimmer type route and it is not up to snuff.
  13. No matter how big your space, you will find forges and furnaces of all kinds will multiply seemingly behind your back.
  14. Years ago I did work experience under a smith who used bituminous coal mixed with maybe 25% by volume charcoal, powered his forge with bellows. A very good set-up, a good, clean, hot fire, and a very beautiful way to work and surprisingly efficient. BUT, you have to have good bellows, good coal, good charcoal, and your forge has to be configured correctly.
  15. I can't speak of coal, but I can go through 25kg of coke in a day. That would be a solid day of forging, mind, but still, it does go. I think coke forges tend to be a bit spendthrift in comparison to coal; pile it high, burn it hot! I was a "traditionalist" for many years, and I think there is real value in learning the different processes from the ground up, but these days unless it is something that won't fit in my gas forge, I won't use the solid fuel; it's simply not as good.