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Paul Cooper

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Everything posted by Paul Cooper

  1. how would you do a differential heat treatment on 154? ive been asked to produce a couple blades in cpm 154 for slipjoint folders. assuming the backsprings are around 45rc, id want to temper the tangs to a similar hardness. for which, cpm's specs call for 1200f tempering cycles. would you temper by hand using a torch? any other ideas? thanks in advance. -p
  2. hi aiden. i finally got around to trying out the wedged construction method. i used poplar for the wedge. no glue but i soaked it in blo to expand the grain. thanks for the inspiration. -p
  3. thanks for the recommendation josh. -p
  4. thanks j amazon list the book starting at 75$. im interested but might have to wait till christmas. is this the ken erickson wip youre referring to? http://www.sablade.com/forums/showthread.php?2302-Ken-Erickson-EDC-WIP(work-in-progress)&s=1cf9364389d1d7a0b5eb75bf0bd6155d -p
  5. im looking for instruction designing multiblade slipjoints. the whittler pattern in particular. ive got plenty experience bladesmithing, machining and a little doing folders. what i need is some foundation for design. any books, videos, tutorials, etc you can recommend would be very much appreciated. thank you -paul cooper
  6. one key feature of patch knives is the grind. it ought to be flat or chisel ground, in order for the cutting edge to sit flat on the muzzle when cutting the patch. ill be interested in the finished piece. -p
  7. i was talking to my brother-in-law who does hardwood floors about this. hardwoods would be more stable because they have tighter pores and natural oils help to prevent moisture. however, he agrees with you about pines compressability and being easier to work. so maybe using hardwood is overkill. he suggests if we kiln dry the wedges immediately before assembly, theyll be dryer than they ever will be again. they may expand with humidity but wont ever shrink smaller than when putting the handle together. finishing the handle with oil or wax would help too. -p btw, are you in denver
  8. i dont remember ever seeing that type of construction before. now im excited to try it out. thanks for the inspiration. couple thoughts... seems like having a ferule would eliminate the chance of splitting your handle when tapping home the wedge and make for a stronger joint. are you at all concerned about the stability of the pine in weather swings? does dry weather ever loosen the construction? if so, what materials would be more stable? cheers -p
  9. beauty peace tom. i say you call it Mr Funky Beard! -p
  10. nice work meers. id be interested in seeing the case from the side. hope things are good out your way. -p
  11. hi all im making an attempt to scrape 1" wide fullers in a leaf spring blade. problem is chatter and galling. im using high speed steel mounted on a bar for draw knife style action. im using cutting oil and tried grinding chip breakers in the cutting edge to reduce the area of cut. i may need to reconsider how im holding the work piece to minimize vibration. id be interested in seeing what tools youre using for this type of work. any advise would be appreciated. thanks -p
  12. i like them, esp the clip. how did you finish the steel? is the clip sharp? -p
  13. the driftwood scales are realy cool. rustic and warm. did you do anything special to prepare or finish them? any idea what the wood is? -p
  14. nice looking piece but i totaly dont get the lock. would you be willing to illustrate the mechanism for us? thanks -p
  15. nice. the bocotes got a nice look. ive got some waiting for use. how did you like working with the forgev and, if you dont mind me asking, where did you obtain it? -p
  16. my original plan was a full tang with the peened rear bolster. but at some point decided to split the antler and mortis in the tang. no steel to rust under sweaty palms. i see alot of edc knives that i think would be so much better with a rear bolster. it tweaks the balance, protects the handle from drops or batoning and adds the ability to hammer. mo better with little mo work. what do you think? -p
  17. forged 1095 elk, brass pins dimensions are roughly 4" blade, 8" oal i peened the heck out of the tang to form a rear bolster. sheath fits nice in the back pocket for short hikes. real comfy. i liked this one. -p
  18. forged 1095 chemical blue wenge, elk, mild steel butt. approx 5" too ricasso 9.75" oal elk tine in the center of handle is a concave index point. sharpened clip. lightweight. easy to hide. enjoy. -p
  19. i wonder how much of this ended up on our knives... http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20110120/od_nm/us_mammoth_confiscation after the blades taken recently at the massachusetts border, id like more specific info about what the fish and wildlife gmen are looking for. it seems to have been intimiated this is not merely a customs issue. -p
  20. hi all, i had wanted to share a photo of the whole etching. a difficult shot considering the shine and mottled patina. so that its more clear, the image is a hand holding a sword by the blade with a banner wrapped. thanks to my father in law john for the photos. -p
  21. i dont want to add insult to injury... the thing that would infuriate me is thinking about the possible damage done to the original in the counterfeiting process. -p
  22. thanks all for commenting. and thank alan for finishing tips on this piece. i didnt get the etching to stand out like i wanted. still, pretty pleased with the final product. the motto translates roughly: this hand, an enemy of tyrants, seeks peace by the sword with liberty undisturbed. google algernon sydney if yould like to learn more. pretty interesting character. -p
  23. your knives look good to me, tom. nice leather work too. that third piece is especialy interesting. im curious if the knives have names? -p
  24. howdy forged 1095 wrought fittings antiqued etched design in blade. sorry i dont have a better image yet. motto is: manus haec, inimica tyrannis, einse petit placidam cum libertate quietem. -algernon sydney enjoy -p
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