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Paul Cooper

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Posts posted by Paul Cooper

  1. how would you do a differential heat treatment on 154?

     

    ive been asked to produce a couple blades in cpm 154 for slipjoint folders.

    assuming the backsprings are around 45rc, id want to temper the tangs to a similar hardness.  for which, cpm's specs call for 1200f tempering cycles.

     

    would you temper by hand using a torch?

    any other ideas?

     

    thanks in advance.

    -p

     

  2. Book-- "How to make Multi-Blade Folding Knives" by Shadley & Davis. They do a whittler pattern in the book

     

    do a search for Ken Erickson folding knife WIP - lots of great photos and tips

     

    J

     

    JDWARE KNIVES

    thanks j

     

    amazon list the book starting at 75$. im interested but might have to wait till christmas.

    is this the ken erickson wip youre referring to?

    http://www.sablade.com/forums/showthread.php?2302-Ken-Erickson-EDC-WIP(work-in-progress)&s=1cf9364389d1d7a0b5eb75bf0bd6155d

     

    -p

  3. im looking for instruction designing multiblade slipjoints. the whittler pattern in particular.

     

    ive got plenty experience bladesmithing, machining and a little doing folders. what i need is some foundation for design.

    any books, videos, tutorials, etc you can recommend would be very much appreciated.

     

    thank you

    -paul cooper

  4. one key feature of patch knives is the grind.

    it ought to be flat or chisel ground, in order for the cutting edge to sit flat on the muzzle when cutting the patch.

    ill be interested in the finished piece.

     

    -p

  5. I'm glad this post has been useful to a few people, there isn't much information (in english at least) about this sort of knife. Along with that, however, I am far from an expert about this type of handle (I'm far from an expert about any type of handle, but this one more so). That being said, due to the fact that the wedges are made from a wood much softer than the handle, I think there isn't much of a risk in splitting the handle when driving them in. However, I'm sure a ferrule couldn't hurt and would strengthen the knife overall/be an interesting design element. With how tight the tang is friction fitted into the handle, and the amount of epoxy, even without the wedges, I think anything short of heating up the handle with a torch or grinding it off wouldn't pull it apart before the tang broke/wood split. However, this knife is intended for indoor use as a utility knife in my workshop, so it likely won't go through too much stress.

     

    As to the stability of the pine, I do live a mile high, and have seen noticeable shrinkage of wooden handle components (and my interior wooden doors, which with any luck will start closing properly again in a little while) during late fall and winter when the climate gets dryer, so soon I'll know how the wedges respond. If you wanted to make them more stable, a denser wood might shrink a little less, but would be harder to carve and less forgiving in terms of fit. Just some thoughts. Good luck.

     

    -ACC

     

    i was talking to my brother-in-law who does hardwood floors about this.

    hardwoods would be more stable because they have tighter pores and natural oils help to prevent moisture.

    however, he agrees with you about pines compressability and being easier to work. so maybe using hardwood is overkill.

    he suggests if we kiln dry the wedges immediately before assembly, theyll be dryer than they ever will be again. they may expand with humidity but wont ever shrink smaller than when putting the handle together.

    finishing the handle with oil or wax would help too.

     

    -p

     

    btw, are you in denver?

  6. i dont remember ever seeing that type of construction before.

    now im excited to try it out.

    thanks for the inspiration.

     

    couple thoughts...

    seems like having a ferule would eliminate the chance of splitting your handle when tapping home the wedge and make for a stronger joint.

    are you at all concerned about the stability of the pine in weather swings? does dry weather ever loosen the construction?

    if so, what materials would be more stable?

     

    cheers

    -p

  7. hi all

    im making an attempt to scrape 1" wide fullers in a leaf spring blade.

    problem is chatter and galling.

    im using high speed steel mounted on a bar for draw knife style action. im using cutting oil and tried grinding chip breakers in the cutting edge to reduce the area of cut.

    i may need to reconsider how im holding the work piece to minimize vibration.

    id be interested in seeing what tools youre using for this type of work.

    any advise would be appreciated.

     

    thanks

    -p

  8. my original plan was a full tang with the peened rear bolster.

    but at some point decided to split the antler and mortis in the tang.

    no steel to rust under sweaty palms.

    i see alot of edc knives that i think would be so much better with a rear bolster.

    it tweaks the balance, protects the handle from drops or batoning and adds the ability to hammer.

    mo better with little mo work.

    what do you think?

     

    -p

     

    1302905827.jpg

     

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  9. forged 1095

    elk, brass pins

    dimensions are roughly 4" blade, 8" oal

     

    i peened the heck out of the tang to form a rear bolster.

    sheath fits nice in the back pocket for short hikes.

    real comfy. i liked this one.

     

    -p

     

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  10. forged 1095 chemical blue

    wenge, elk, mild steel butt.

    approx 5" too ricasso

    9.75" oal

     

    elk tine in the center of handle is a concave index point.

    sharpened clip.

    lightweight.

    easy to hide.

     

    enjoy.

    -p

     

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  11. hi all,

    i had wanted to share a photo of the whole etching.

    a difficult shot considering the shine and mottled patina.

    so that its more clear, the image is a hand holding a sword by the blade with a banner wrapped.

    thanks to my father in law john for the photos.

     

    -p

     

    1295387056.jpg

  12. thanks all for commenting.

    and thank alan for finishing tips on this piece. i didnt get the etching to stand out like i wanted. still, pretty pleased with the final product.

    the motto translates roughly: this hand, an enemy of tyrants, seeks peace by the sword with liberty undisturbed.

    google algernon sydney if yould like to learn more. pretty interesting character.

     

    -p

  13. howdy

    forged 1095

    wrought fittings

    antiqued

    etched design in blade. sorry i dont have a better image yet.

    motto is: manus haec, inimica tyrannis, einse petit placidam cum libertate quietem. -algernon sydney

     

    enjoy

    -p

     

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