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Steve R

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    Ottawa, ON (Canadian, eh? :) )
  1. Thanks for the comments, all. Justin, you nailed when you mentioned doing the blade then adding a handle as an afterthought. Though I had ideas about the handle, I definitely didn't plan it out ahead of time like I should have. Live and learn (hopefully). Here's another one I'm working on with a similar rosewood handle. Still needs to be polished and I'm thinking it needs a bolster of some kind, though I can't quite decide what to do. Any suggestions? Cheers!
  2. Thanks for the feedback, Doug. I know I definitely need to work on my fit and finish. Here's a couple closer pics of the handle, perhaps you could point out the issues as you see them? One that I know bugs me is that the end doesn't line up with the end of the tang perfectly, but I didn't want to mess with the proportions as it's already close to the limit on handle length. Cheers.
  3. Hi folks. Been away from the forum and smithing for a while, but have recently been getting back into it. Though I've made a few simple blades for my own use and experimentation, I'd never really finished a knife with a proper handle and polish before this. The steel is W1 and the scales are rosewood with brass pins. I must apologize for the crappy photos, I'll figure out how to do better some day. Cheers!
  4. I get my W1 through flat-stock.com, here's the link: http://www.flat-stock.com/~store/Merchant2...egory_Code=PMDR The stuff I get is from Precision-Marshall, I've attached the .pdf of their specs (Watercrat is what P-M calls their W1). FWIW, I get a great hamon with this steel using clay and brine quench, though I'm just learning and haven't played around with folding yet. cheers, /steve drillrod_specs.pdf
  5. Ok, that is freakin' sweet! I love the primitive, but well-fitted/finished look. I think you achieved the crude but deadly look you were trying for quite effectively. I like the perfectly-finished blades as well, but there is just something about a well-executed 'rough' piece that always seems to catch my eye. Very nice work. cheers, /steve
  6. Hi John, Wikipedia has a decent explanation of it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Center_of_percussion There is also a good link under the References section at the end of the article that expands upon some of the key points. Hope this helps. cheers, /steve
  7. Hi guys, I understand the issue with emissivity, which is why I want to do some calibration runs to see how non-linear the results are (due to the change in emissivity of steel at different temperatures). I doubt the reading will be off by anywhere near 30 - 50%. I'd be interested to know what distance Jerry took those measurements at, and what the spot-to-distance ratio of the unit he was using is. This also has the potential to greatly affect accuracy, possibly more than any of the other factors combined. I hear what you're saying, I just don't think it will be quite that bad and as I said I plan on doing some testing to see how bad it is. I'll post results when I have them. As for the thermocouple, I do use a k-type in my tempering oven, but my forge isn't exactly temperature controlled so the temp of the forge isn't very useful to me - I want to know the temp of the steel itself. Trying to use a contact thermocouple in a forge is not my ideal solution (though I may try rigging something that I can poke different parts of the blade against at some point to see how well it works). I also need to get an r-type as k-types aren't as linear or accurate in the forging/heat treating temp ranges. [edit] Haha! Make that I wish I could get an r-type! Those things ain't cheap! [/edit] cheers, /steve
  8. Well, this one has a spec'd accuracy of +/-1.5%, which translates to +/-22 degrees at 1500. Probably still better than my eye and a magnet. Still, I may try doing some quick and dirty calibration with it against a thermocouple or two when I get it to see how far it's off, how linear it is, and if it's consistent. Thanks for the heads up. cheers, /steve
  9. Sweet, thanks for posting that! I just ordered one from here: http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-wareh...75-p-ESI01.html It's a little cheaper than the first link. cheers, /steve
  10. Thanks for your input, gentlemen. Well, since it doesn't look like I'll be going to Japan for an apprenticeship any time soon, I guess I have a long road of experimentation ahead of me - should be fun! cheers, /steve
  11. Hey folks, thanks for the info and links. I'd really love to get more info about some of the Japanese style metalwork; thanks for that book title, H├┐llyn. I'll be sure to look it up. Alan - I think I'll leave the flintlocks to you and stick to blades and tools! I can imagine it isn't easy to get right. cheers, /steve
  12. Hi folks, I came across some interesting pictures of the yakiire (differential hardening) of a Japanese blade. What's interesting is that the hamon doesn't follow the clay line at all (which is straight), but instead produces a wonderful juka choji pattern. I remember reading (I think it was Yoshihara Yoshindo in Craft of the Japanese Sword) where the kitae has as much to do with the hamon as the clay layout, I guess this is an example of what he's talking about? The layering of the steel and the thickness of the blade both coming together to produce the pattern, and the clay just there to ensure the back stays soft? I'd be interested to hear other's thoughts on this, especially around things like whether or not something like this is possible with mono steel, or if folding of the steel and possible certain constructions of the billet would be required to produce such a result. cheers, /steve
  13. Alan, I have a couple of questions for you, if I may. What shapes are the working ends of the gravers? Are they pointed at all or are you just using the corner of a square end? Also, it looks in your picture like you're using it on a very shallow angle, is this just the picture, or is this really how it is used? Does the angle depend on what you're trying to achieve? I'm trying to wrap my head around how some of the different marks are created and not having a heck of a lot of luck, maybe I should just make a couple of different shapes and see what they do. Last question: how exactly does the striker plate on a flint lock work (you seem to be the guy to ask)? I was reading the thread on flint strikers and some of the associated links, and they seem to say it's tricky to get good sparks sometimes. This made me wonder about the shape of flint lock striker plates and how they manage to work reliably, or at least mostly so. BTW, nice work! cheers, /steve
  14. I would definitely be interested in some. How much do you want for how much? cheers, /steve
  15. Steve R

    nice hamon

    Hi igrec, I'd be interested to hear what process you used to polish this blade. Did you use stones for the entire process (and if so, were they all natural stones or synthetic), or did you do a "hybrid" polish? Did you etch at all, and if so what etchant did you use? Reason I ask is that I'm trying some semi-traditional polishing myself, but am running into problems getting rid of all the scratches unless I use all natural stones (at least from komanagura and up). I'm also having issues with getting the habuchi and ashi to show as well as on your blade. I've managed to get a good polish on some antique kogatana (I'll add pictures when I get home this eve), but run into problems when polishing modern monosteel blades. I'm currently using W1 as my steel. cheers, /steve
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