Jump to content

Guy Thomas

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Guy Thomas last won the day on October 18 2016

Guy Thomas had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

20 Excellent


About Guy Thomas

  • Birthday 09/26/1962

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Tallahassee, Florida
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing and creating things. Norse culture, enjoying the outdoors. Reading is big on the list!

Recent Profile Visitors

1,056 profile views
  1. Are you making a bell mallet for it too Alan?
  2. Hats off Alan! Beautiful, I envy those who have the knack of working with wood, it requires so much delicacy of precision. Way harder than metal for me.
  3. Outstanding, really liking how this blade is turning out! Out of curiosity what makes the breaking off of the tangs a particular danger of multi-bar construction while forging? The drastic transition form a wide bar to a smaller sized tang section? Combined with materials mismatched in their forging characteristics? Now that I pose those questions it seems obvious now, lol.
  4. The handle combination of ivories looks great, I believe I like it better than the original too. Looking forward to an etch reveal of the blade as well.
  5. Site is great, I look forward to exploring it more, it's (I have to say it) the bee's knees!
  6. Thanks Jake, setting the weld in the forge is something I've never considered before but I can see the benefit especially on smaller pieces.
  7. Does anyone know if Satanite, which I typically use as a light wash over blades I'm heat treating and for thicker applications for creating hamon can cause contamination or degrade a commercial quench like Parks 50? It's inevitable some flakes off in the quench. Never worried about it much with canola or peanut oil that you treat as consumables.
  8. Great thread, I'll be curious to see what Jerod says about the AEB-L issue. I remember bringing temper embrittlment up many years ago when Howard Clark was still active on the original forum as I had just read about the phenomenon. I was curious because the tempering range of most swords places them squarely in the range where this could happen, but typically doesn't cause a problem. I can't remember details now but I believe the upshot was that modern industrial tool steels don't necessarily behave the same in our bladesmithing applications as they do in their intended and intensively studied
  9. Thanks Alan, I was thinking 1/4 would be awful convenient, especially for the smaller blades, but that a broader area of weld might be better. Maybe even a "V" shape groove in the wrought to fit a beveled edge of the edge steel to provide even more weld surface area.
  10. I know I've run across this before but I can't find it now. One direction I'd like to try in the coming year as I get my shop back in order is small to moderate sized seax style belt/utility blades with wrought iron backs. How thin can you take the stock prior to welding and still get reliable butt welds between the two? I haven't built a dedicated welding forge yet but I have some 3/4" round wrought I can start forging down into square or rectangular stock.
  11. When I first started I was heat treating out of my forge but discovered I was overheating after watching Don Fogg demo normalizing and recalescence at a hammer-in. The trick is knowing what color the phase transformation is in the ambient lighting you have while you are heat treating. You can gauge this during normalization by holding up a bucket and sticking the hot blade up into the darkened interior of the bucket so you can watch for recalescence. When the phase transformation happens pull the blade out into the ambient lighting so you know what color to watch for (that same color is decale
  12. I've had good luck using WD-40 as a hand sanding lubricant, it's just handy and is convenient to apply and storage isn't an issue (and no chance of me spilling it everywhere either!). I admit I've not experimented with many other oils. I seldom start finer than 220, good to know the 320 between 220 and 400 seems unnecessary. Thanks for the tip on Rynowet redline wet/dry paper Alan, been while since I bought any paper.
  13. I think you really nailed the blade shape and proportions of blade to haft on both!
  14. A channel called Taste Life has been cropping up in my Facebook feed lately, it often showcases an Azerbaijan farm family cooking, much of it outdoors. The woman uses a similar type knife (and uses it with wonderful proficiency). Whats interesting is from it's appearance it could very well have been made from a saw blade. Look around 40 seconds in on this video : https://www.facebook.com/252891408454022/videos/366055621181443 I get so hungry every time I watch them cooking, lol
  • Create New...