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Guy Thomas

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Guy Thomas last won the day on October 18 2016

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About Guy Thomas

  • Birthday 09/26/1962

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    Tallahassee, Florida
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing and creating things. Norse culture, enjoying the outdoors. Reading is big on the list!

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  1. I really like the idea of no flux welding, seems it would rule out the need for any "durable" cast refractory. I can however, see armoring the wool with a cast refractory to protect against mechanical damage from the billets.
  2. In the distant past I ordered solely from Admiral Steel. I actually have more steel now than I know what to do with, but I am low on a few things like 1/8" thick 1084 and would like some 1075, 15N20 and 80CrV2 in various sizes to fool around with. The next time I order steel will certainly be from New Jersey Steel Baron. Aldo has a reputation as a supplier of high quality steel.
  3. In case anyone hadn't heard yet, Ashokan Sword is set for Sept. 17-19. Probably not in the books for me this year unfortunately. Ashokan Sword Seminar 2021 And for those of you on Facebook: New England Blacksmiths Guild
  4. What's the stuff you are used to Alan? Man, I haven't been to a Hammer-In in six years or so (Ashokan I believe) so this would be tempting and not too crazy a drive from Tallahassee.
  5. Wow, life has really been getting in the way the past few months. I actually had no idea it had been four months since I posted this, I've noticed one of the effects of the past year and a half dealing with the pandemic is a severe disconnect with my recollection of the passage of time and the actual amount that passed. Avoiding adhesive issues and oil finish penetration issues. As usual I was just overthinking. A thin slice off the end on the table saw was fine.
  6. Gary, do you have any pictures that show the surface better after etching?
  7. Thanks Alan, that's what I was thinking would be the case (not knowing via internet which is frustrating). I wasn't aware they would typically be shear steel for rough and tumble springs though, that's a good thing. You just don't see them down this way too often to be able to compare really old ones with newer ones, or perhaps I just don't know where to look. This past year has really put a damper on poking around and going to flea markets and such.
  8. Any tips on what look for on sets of old rusty wagon/buggy springs that might give you an indication they are old enough to possibly be blister steel? (Beyond positively knowing they are actually old enough to risk buying on the off chance they might be!)
  9. Good luck on the build. I really need to get started on a forge better suited for welding myself.
  10. Yeah, that comparison was more tongue in cheek. That's not the first time I seen it compared to a souped up 5160. I posted the meme over on the Fiery Beards forum. If 1086modified were available I would have used that instead!
  11. After a little discussion in another thread in which I described a meme I wanted to put together I enlisted my son's help (and his copy of photoshop, lol). Here it is:
  12. Having a quench medium that works best at room temperature was a huge draw for me to buy some Parks 50. The other reason is I mostly work with simple eutectic steels like 1084. I do however have a fair amount of 5160, that stuff Admiral was selling as L6 years ago and other odds and ends but I'll make do with canola oil for the time being for those. I can always get some AAA later. It's odd, after so many years of not doing much bladesmithing it's almost like starting over as a beginner. Even with the decision to "try" and stick to a small range of similar steels for now while I tr
  13. Thanks Joshua! Do you ever use a flux of any kind? The one time I tried making bronze in my small freon tank forge I lost a huge amount of copper to oxidation. Ended up with a bronze that had 20% or more tin. Probably says more about my forge atmosphere than anything else. The alloy, while not what I wanted was interesting and I discovered it is similar to alloys the Japanese make. It was a pale silvery gold color. Need to forge it down one of these days and make a guard or spacer from it. (I think I know where it is, lol)
  14. Thanks, I missed that thread (and I forgot I posted this, lol). I had trolled around the other knifemaker forums and essentially while there are some anti-scale products with chemical components that could cause degradation by and large clay coatings collect in chunks on the bottom of the tank and just need to be screened out perhaps yearly. The oil can benefit from filtering from time to time too. The main thing is keeping them sealed from the general atmosphere to limit water exposure from the air and probably most importantly, always fully immerse items when quenching to prevent surface fla
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