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Jake Durr

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    New Jersey
  1. I am posting this to judge market interest in some particularly large diameter, genuine English Boxwood I've resently set up to dry. The shrub was planted some one hundred fifty years ago, and largest log diameter is around five inches. The logs are currently waxed in parrafin with bark on. I am unaware how much time is necessary for drying, so advise regarding that will be much welcomed, though I would figure three to five years as a safe measure. The current weight of my lot is over two hundred pounds, which is more then I will need for myself in the forseeable future. I'm in no r
  2. Thank you all for the kind remarks. Alan, I am with you on the clip, and would revise this on any future attempts of this style. This was my first attempt at "broke back" style seax, or any seax really, and it is by no means historically accurate. Stew, I did a quick search for the original post to no avail. As such, I will give the process I recall/use. Heat a solution of hydrogen peroxide to near boiling, then dissolve as much salt into the solution as the volume can handle. In my experience I have used regular table salt, and 3% H202, the standard carried at pharmacies
  3. The blade was forged of 1080 and laminated with 15n20 to create the surface pattern. Contrast was attained by etching the blade and applying Brian Vanspeybroek's flash rusting technique. Though it is not quite visible in the photos the blade is hollow ground, transitioning to a convex grind just prior to the upper 1/3 of the blade. Overall Length - 12" Blade - 7 3/4 Hilt - 4 1/4 Any thoughts?
  4. Great work! What do you use for the handle material? Leather disks?
  5. More of Andrew Pott's work can be found here, if you are interested.
  6. Thank you all for the kind remarks. They mean more to me then you may know. I cut the head of prior to forging the shape as I didn't feel I needed the extra material. Jim, the blade was edge quenched in water and I opted not to temper. I've never heard of a caustic brine quench before, could you elaborate on it or direct me to some information on it? Jake, thanks for giving Brian the credit he deserves.
  7. Forged from a railroad spike. Black oxide coated from a recipe from this website. I can't recall, nor find the post to give credit where it is due. Handle scales are Brazilian tulipwood. What are your thoughts?
  8. Stunning It's the most elegant norse style peice I've ever seen, in my honest opinion. I can only imagion what it feels like in hand. I'm constantly in awe of your work.
  9. Yeah, sorry, that was a misprint. Thanks for the kind remarks. I intended on a sort of a rustic look.
  10. This is my second blade. I don't think it's quite finished as there's a little I'd like to do to it. The steel was derived from an F-250 leaf spring. The finish on the blade was my first experiment with Iron (III) oxide, though I suppose most would say that the job wasn't finished, I like the speckled appearence of the inconsistant coat. The Guard is peined wrought iron and brazed onto the tang. I etched it in HCL but that didn't yeild good results. Do you think it is to late to reetch in Ferric Chloride? The handle is cocobolo that a friend generously gave to me.
  11. Forged from a rail road spike. The grinding was done with an angle grinder. I would like to aquire a belt sander soon. I'm open for advise and critique. I need a little practice taking pictures as well, I suppose.
  12. I work on my father's farm. Prior to this year we were pretty much exclusivally floral oriented, with the exception of pumpkins, and a few acres of tomatoes, brocolli, and colliflower, however we have really taken a step into the produce market this year. We have planted over 100 acres of sweet corn, a decent amount of string beans, peppers, and a larger amount of tomatoes, broccolli and coliflower. Additionally, through some land that we are renting, we have inherited an established peach orchard, as well as an apple orchard, strawberries, and a few acres of raspberries and blackberr
  13. Thanks for the help Mike. I'll see if I can find a local source for clay.
  14. So like the beginner I am, I messed up. I assembled Lively style Washtub Forge, however since Adobe was not really availible I went to Home Depot to see if I could find anything useable there. I questioned a salesman if he had any concrete/mortar product that could be used in high heat applications. He refered me to a specific product and I purchased it without really investigating it. So I put the forge together and made the fire pot with the concrete he recommended. Upon my first fire, I encountered a lot of "Popping" from the concrete. A signifigant amount of it blew out of the fo
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