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Jeroen Zuiderwijk

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Jeroen Zuiderwijk last won the day on March 3 2019

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    Bronze age, iron age, early medieval.

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  1. I don't think they would have made a notch in the wood. The wood just automatically dents inwards as you hammer the tang in to a loop against it. It probably wasn't even the intention that the loop was sunk into the wood.
  2. It's rather short to be a Viking age single edged sword. But it is a good match for earlier period longseaxes. You could go for a type 4 longseax (Jorgensen's Nordic sax typology) with double fuller. You'd need to change the profile of the tip a bit for a good match. Unfortunately with regards to patternwelding I have very little info on earlier nordic longsaxes. I know the Viking period ones were patternwelded, but when patternwelding was introduced I wouldn't know. However, it would look great if you would apply the double fuller at the location of the torsion bars. Usually with
  3. And that just answered a question I had since I started forging. I had the same problem every time I use mild steel. Apparently S235 can have up to 0.55 % copper content.
  4. In terms of millimeters on a part of 70cm in diameter IIRC. That's for a fairly solid part.
  5. This is creep. Due to the bending, there were internal stresses in the blade. When metals endure stress for a long time, this can result in deformation through creep. This is something we have to keep in mind when milling large aluminium parts from large stock for aerospace applications. They are pre-milled, then left on the shelf for months, and milled to the final shape then. If milled to the correct shape at one go, the parts will start to warp due to internal stresses, and won't fit when they are assembled later, eventhough they were milled accurately.
  6. I did things! I made fire, and put iron in it! Last evening was a rare occasion when I was on my own at home. So I pulled out my makeshift forge for hardening two seaxes that have been waiting for many years. That seems to have worked well. And since I still had a good amount of glowing charcoal, I forge welded a bit of layered W2 to a piece of wrought.
  7. When the blade is tempered, the file will bite again. Only after hardening and before tempering the file won't bite, as the blade is harder then the file in that condition.
  8. I've had a similar experience with yew. I couldn't stop coughing, up to a point that I had slept only one hour a night for three nights in a row just coughing my lungs out continuously with barely being able to catch a breath. I got various medications to reduce the coughing, and after several months it went away, but I ended up with asthma and had to take medication for that for a while to be able to breath at night. It took me a few years until my lungs got back to mostly normal, with the exception that I now get post viral coughs whenever I get a cold that usually last one or two months, du
  9. Well, since it's steel related Last couple of weeks I've been busy re-restoring my antique cargo tricycle. Stripping down all the bits, and hopefully doing a better paint job this time. I restored it befor 10 years ago, when I didn't have a clue what I was doing and very much learning as I went. Coincidentally, similar leafsprings have been my main source of steel during the years I was actively forging. Though those leafsprings were even older, of the hand carts that predate these cargo tricycles. And the mud guard brackets were made in my force 10 years ago
  10. Of course understanding the blade shape and being able to forge it accurately are two different things that need to be acquired. My first attempt was terrible too (also in the presentation), but that was intended to be wrong. It then took a few blades, refining the blade shape and comparing with originals until I felt I had the blade geometry within historic proportions. You are of course free to choose how closely you want to match historical examples. But personally I feel that even if you don't want to make historical ones, understanding them well makes much nicer blades. I know various bla
  11. I also recommend having a look at the presentation on seaxes I did some years ago: lecture_saxes_final3.pdf
  12. Box wood, used frequently on medieval knives, and also found on one broken back style seax. I'm also fond of apple wood, though no direct evidence of it having been used on seaxes (though fruitwood in general I believe is supported). On Merovingian seaxes, the hilt woods were just whatever was available: oak, ash, beech, willow, alder, poplar, cherry etc.
  13. A dirty weld, with carbon diffused into the iron I would say. The dirtier the weld, the less both layers are attached. But considering the diffusion of the carbon into the iron, quite a significant amount of the surface between both layers must have bonded.
  14. I've used petrobond sand a lot. It's great in that it it's quite stable and doesn't fall apart easily (though between petrobond sands there is quite a bit of variation) and allows very fine detail. Downside is that you get internal porosity in the cast due to the oil burning, and the gasses being dragged down with the metal. I've not found a way to completely avoid that, but sharp corners for the metal to flow over should be avoided, and it should be hammered together as compact as possible to reduce the effect. You don't notice those internal bubbles, unless you grind into the cast.
  15. That's a fantastic blade Mareko! I've been breaking my head on how these were made. But I guess the best way to find out is to just go and do it, or playing with playdoh a lot. I'm still thinking in terms of billets, and cutting and stacking, rather then individual moziac elements stuck together, though of course I could be wrong. I expect it to come from what went before, in gradual steps playing with the known techniques and creating new variations by additional steps on top of the known patterns. Also to keep in mind that they didn't have welders, so everything had to be kept together mech
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