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Jeroen Zuiderwijk

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Jeroen Zuiderwijk last won the day on June 17

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    Bronze age, iron age, early medieval.

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  1. Mostly nothing special, and not very well maintained either, though the knives are still much sharper then in the average kitchen The only knife in the kitchen I made myself is a reproduction of a Roman chef knife: It was forged of an antique leaf spring, and is the only non-stainless knife in the kitchen. It's also not gotten a single speck of rust, despite being in the (humid) kitchen unprotected for at least 15 years. It certainly does hold it's edge much better then the stainless steel ones.
  2. I can do better, if I want to (leatherwork) The sheath was made with two purposes: to store the knife, and to get some practice doing something I've never done that could be useful in a later project. It did both, so I'm happy I did order some leather dye which I want to play with. I want to have a go at authentic medieval leather dyeing some time, but that's another project I need to make time for.
  3. Summer, what's that? I'm still waiting for autumn to finish It's been 10 months already. Anyway, lovely filework again Alan!
  4. Various projects are waiting because I need punches for them. And to make punches, I need hardenable steel rods, some 6 to 8mm, which I can't easily get. I do have a fair amount of old leafsprings, so I started cutting them up, to use them. The way my mind works though, is rather then just making the punches that I need, I first made a crown shaped punch for a late medieval knife makers mark, which a knife I haven't even started making yet And I also did make one I need, a U-shaped punch for the Osmund-knife. For that one I need more punches for the inscriptions. Nice thing about punches though is that they are small contained projects, that I can do late in the evening when I have some free time, and which don't make much noise. And I can harden them in the kitchen, so they don't need to wait for a rare moment that I can light the forge.
  5. So I had a an unidentified piece of pleistocene mammal bone (mammoth or other contemporary animal), and wondered what to do with it. Since it was just an unidentifiable fragment, it wasn't worth much to my fossil collection. But it had a nice flat area, which I thought would make it ideal for making handle scales. I was curious to work the material, and so I did. I used one find as inspiration. It's a knife with preserved wooden scales. It's dated to 725-900AD, found in Maasdriel, Netherlands. Though I have my reservations with regards to that dating, as scale handled knifes are to my knowledge very out of place for that period. Anyway, it wasn't going to be a historical reproduction anyway due to the handle material. Also, I was looking for a simple small thing that I could finish quickly, and get that feeling of progress again, motivating me to start doing more work. Initially I thought I might be able to forge and finish it on the same day, but that was a bit too ambitious. I did get as far as forging, rough finishing and hardening the blade the same afternoon. It took me two more weeks to actually completely finish it, though I did some other work in between. I also feel I should make sheaths for any new knife that I make, since I found they don't actually take much time, and it allows me to store it better. I used no. 147 from "Sheaths and scabbards in England AD400-1100)" as an example. I've not made one of this type before. Was easier to make then I thought. I used a piece of my not so good for sheaths leather (too thick, doesn't take shape and decoration well), as I didn't expect it to succeed first time. Well it did, and despite the limitations of the leather, I'm quite pleased with it. Lesson for next time: do take the good leather right away
  6. The new charcoal is a success b.t.w.! Tested with the castings and forging last sunday, it gets the heat and burns clean. I actually burned away one of the knives I was forging, since it got hot so quickly, which I wasn't used to anymore So a great investement. Now to do larger castings with it again. So my hobby is saved!
  7. Yesterday was a rare day where I was able to do some hobbying. I did a bit of casting and forging. My daughter had asked me earlier to play around with the casting sand, so we prepared some molds, including some of her My little pony's In the mean time I did a bit of forging. I had a fragment of undetermined pleistocene bone (mammoth or other animal) that I found on the beach, and thought it would be fun using it for a knife. I forged, rough finished and heat treated the blade the same afternoon (with casting in between. I've started on the bone knife scales. The knife is based on a dutch find that is dated 725-900AD, but I sincerely doubt that dating is correct. Still a fair bit of work left to do, and cutting out the second hilt plate. It's probably a lot later then that. Anyway, it's not meant to be a historic reproduction, ust something I used as an example to work from. I was also forging another knife, but I accidentally burned up the handle, so that's a loss. It's good practicing accurate forging again. It's something I've not done much for many years, and I'm finding it quite a challenge again. And in the morning we made scones
  8. Grinding dust building up inside can be an issue. Sometimes you just have to take it apart, and clean out the insides. And sometimes these things just wear out or break.
  9. Of later examples mentioned on the site it includes marble pommels though.
  10. Is it stone? According to this site they are all ivory: http://www.salimbeti.com/micenei/weapons1.htm Of course that's not an official source. I don't know if I have a document on these, but I'll have a look if I don't forget.
  11. Soda releases CO2. Not something you want when you poor in the liquid metal. Oxidation isn't the real problem, but oxygen dissolving into the metal. Although oxides can also result in defects in the casting. Better then placing charcoal in the furnace is directly into the crucible. The bronze is good when the surface looks like mirror. If the surface is moving around, it's too hot. No, the metals will mix properly by themselves. It's actually not mixing, it's desolving and happens practically instantly. The solution does have to mix through to get an even percentage, but that automatically happens due to the movement within the liquid metal due to thermal differences. Only when you add f.e. lead, which doesn't fully dissolve, you can get differences, including blobs of lead in the cast.
  12. Technically yes, but several found examples I've seen have single piece hilts. There are early british daggers which have hilts of multiple components, including hilt plates and a pommel (latter bone, ivory etc) which held the back of the hilt together. But also once they move to rapier type swords, hilts become simple one piece and such separate pommels (which are usually preserved when wood isn't) disappear. Though of the swords with such washers used, I don't know any example with a preserved organic hilt. The Nebra swords are an interesting example though, as they have one side bronze, and the other organic and multi part pommels. So they did have a separate front and back hilt plate. So the possibility of multipart hilts exists. It could even have been done in different organic materials, like one side wood, the other horn.
  13. Yeah, they were like that on the original, including most swords from that period. My guess is that it has to do with how difficult it is to get the rivet holes in the hilt to line up with the holes in the blade, which also has to line up with the slot in the hilt. It was quite a hassle doing that with a drill press. If there's any misalignment (and having to increase the holes to compensate so that the rivets will pass through) that gets covered up by the washers. They did figure this out though with the tools they had, as later swords did not have these washers, while still having single piece hilts. With even later full tang swords, this gets much easier, as you simply use the sword to drill to one hilt plate, and then use that hilt plate with tang to drill through the next hilt plate. Although I wonder if they actually drilled such holes, or simply burned them in, either through friction or by heating the rivet rod and pressing it through the wood or horn.
  14. Oh b.t.w. a great tip, for final buffing I now use sanding pads, like 3M micro fine/ultra fine. I've not used the buffing wheel since, happily skipping that dangerous part of the process. Edit: I have to check which sanding pads I really have. I just looked up 3M micro fine, and it doesn't look like the ones I use.
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