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Jeroen Zuiderwijk

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Jeroen Zuiderwijk last won the day on March 3 2019

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    Bronze age, iron age, early medieval.

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  1. It's correct. I have a kitchen knife that I forged 7 or 8 years ago, which hasn't developed a single speck of rust, despite it being in a pretty humid house (70-80% humidity). I clean and dry it directly after use, and it hangs free from the wall in the kitchen, so there can be no moisture trapped against the blade. It's only during prolonged contact with moist that rust will start to develop.
  2. A lot of what you see in the old examples is a result of the tools uses to make them. If you want to get that kind of finish, you have to move away from tools like belt sanders etc. which allow a lot of material removal fast, as well as easily making very accurate sharpely defined geometry. Rely more on forging to shape, and use the grinding process to clean and sharpen. So much less material removal after forging. Then you already get much closer to the more organic shapes of antique blades.
  3. Yes, definitely check out kleinanzeigen. There's a lot on there for very favorable prices. Anvils from 50 euro if you don't mind the face not being very straight, and ones below 200 euro in very nice condition. For example: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/amboss-schmiedeamboss/1693516127-84-6864 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/amboss-steckamboss-klempner-schmied-schmieden-handwerk/1667430622-84-3704 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/schmiedeamboss/1667161198-84-6806 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/amboss-alt-ca-100-kg/1655273140
  4. That's if you look at the highly overpriced buy-it-now adverts on ebay.de. If you keep an eye out for auctions, you'll get one for much less. But still ebay is the more pricy option. It would be cheaper to get one offline. But that takes a bit more exploring to find a place that may have them, such as used tool stores, antique, curiosa and garden ornament stores etc. I don't know if you are near the dutch border, but here I at least know my way. And the dutch marketplace is more favorable then ebay, with a large amount of anvils for decent prices.
  5. For Germany, that would be very expensive. I'd expect he should be able to find something like that for less then 100 euro easily with a bit of searching.
  6. Erm, none of those things belong in an anvil. An anvil should be a solid piece of steel, nothing more. What you describe is something that will take out as much of the energy from you hammer as possible, which is exactly the opposite of what an anvil should do. In that case you might just as well use a bag of sand as an anvil. I see that you live in Germany, so finding old anvils shouldn't be that much of a problem. If you are concerned about ringing, get an old church window style anvil. Those are mostly wrough, and don't ring very much. If that's too large, then get a stump anvil of decent s
  7. I've been following that one. Great to see how it all came together!
  8. That's fantastic! Well done! You do see spearheads of this length from more periods. There's a 84cm long bronze age spearhead from Belfast, Ireland (top one): http://research.ucc.ie/doi/worsaae/figures/Image03.jpg
  9. I've been on here for 13 years it seems Time flies I got to the point where I was just about to start making the stuff that I was working towards for many years, and then I became a father and that put a stop to it. I still have the desire to get back to it, but it's just not possible at this time, and probably won't be on a sufficient scale for years to come. And and at the moment it also doesn't help that I still have a house extension that needs to be finished. I guess that's just life as it happens for many. And yes, my attention is now shared between forums like this one an
  10. Maybe, but I just take what I have close to me, and it always works quite well.
  11. Polishing wood works best using: wood. Take a piece of round wood, and just rub with it. It both burnishes and polishes the handle beautifully.
  12. That sounds very interesting. No idea of price, but I would be quite interested in some shear steel.
  13. A knife can be as small as you want. The smallest knife I've made fits at least ten times in that billet. The few times I've made a billet of laminated steel, I just kept making smaller knives from the left over bits. All still fully functional full scale reproductions of historical knives. Once I have a nice billet, I don't waste any of it. This is the smallest, a late medieval eating knife. IIRC it's about 9cm long in total, blade thickness 1mm (laminated wrought/spring steel):
  14. That is so awesome! I just love to see the progression in modern made seaxes: from poor derivatives, to good reproductions that truly honor the old blades, and then raising it further to a whole new level. That's truly putting "standing on the shoulders of giants" into practice!
  15. It's more that it sounds similar to asking how would they have added slag to wrought to get the more rough wrought. It's the other way around. Such pure ores like the black sand are a rarity here and you're very fortunate to have access to that. Most iron ore here in Europe is bog ore (red hematite), ranging in quality from poor to terrible. It takes a major effort to turn it into something usable. Another source would have been rattling stones (don't know the English term, but called "klapperstenen" in dutch) which are a bit better (black hematite I think?). The highly priced more pure ores a
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