Jump to content

Jeroen Zuiderwijk

Members
  • Content Count

    1,724
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    17

Jeroen Zuiderwijk last won the day on March 3 2019

Jeroen Zuiderwijk had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

235 Excellent

7 Followers

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.facebook.com/barbarianmetalworking
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Bronze age, iron age, early medieval.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,636 profile views
  1. We also happen to be in week 42 b.t.w. And it just happens that 42 was the hardest sum of three cubes solution to solve, which took a global network of computers months to crack it: https://news.mit.edu/2019/answer-life-universe-and-everything-sum-three-cubes-mathematics-0910 So there you have it. The ultimate question is (-80538738812075974)^3 + 80435758145817515^3 + 12602123297335631^3
  2. That depends entirely on the cast. The more solid, the colder the mould and the thinner, the hotter it needs to be. Some objects can be cast in cold moulds, and for others (thin walled casts in particular) it can be near the melting point of bronze to have any chance of the casting being complete. But the gate and vent system also plays a large role in this. The more and bigger the gates and vents are, the easier it casts and the colder you can allow the mould to be. However, the size and placement of the gates and vents need to be such that the air can escape correctly, and the gates such tha
  3. "Perhaps I'm old and tired, but I think that the chances of finding out what's actually going on are so absurdly remote that the only thing to do is to say, "Hang the sense of it," and keep yourself busy. I'd much rather be happy than right any day." To me the most important lesson from THGTTG and something I try to live by (and I'm getting older and more tired by the day )
  4. Also worth keeping in mind, anything thinner then 3mm, the bronze will have difficulty entering. Below 3mm the number of failures grows exponentially. Below 2mm, you can pretty much forget. Then the surface tension of the bronze is too great to be overcome with gravity and you'll either need centrifugal casting or vaccuum casting. And in addition to that, bronze needs time to fill the mould. And to have that time, the mould should be hot enough to allow the metal to fill the mould before it solidifies. That doesn't mean hotter is better. The hotter the mould, the slower the metal c
  5. You know, I've found a great use for cheap, case hardened files: you can bend them easily, which is quite handy if you have to file inside all kinds of curved shapes.
  6. You know I did guitar lessons for two years. If I were to pick up a guitar now I'd be like: ".... ehhh I got nothing". Apparently you need to practice too if you take lessons I'd probably be able to play a few songs again though if I were to dive into the tabs and practice a bit.
  7. Yeah, I've had similar problems. Also with nordic gold (or real fake pirate gold as I also know it ), which also contains aluminium. Thanks for reminding me not to deal with this, and certainly not messing up my crucibles with it! If it casts, it looks nice. But it very easily turns into a sticky goo if you try to melt it.
  8. If you just leave it bare, it will become dark due to use, and loose all the characteristic looks of olive wood. I've had an Opinel with olive wood handle for years. It looked great new, but after a few months of use it just looks like a random dark colored wood.
  9. Well, not really. Unless you mean Swedish style seaxes. But there we already knew that fancy carved handles were used. For other regions, the archeological evidence still points towards undecorated hilts.
  10. Most certainly not. It's not even closely related to broken back style seaxes. It's more likely a Jorgensen's type 1 sax (narrow sax).
  11. Well today it wouldn't be, as it's archeology based. But it also depends where you apply it. If you'd put this handle on a broad sax, or broken back style seax, then you'd rightfully be scorned for it
  12. It's correct. I have a kitchen knife that I forged 7 or 8 years ago, which hasn't developed a single speck of rust, despite it being in a pretty humid house (70-80% humidity). I clean and dry it directly after use, and it hangs free from the wall in the kitchen, so there can be no moisture trapped against the blade. It's only during prolonged contact with moist that rust will start to develop.
  13. A lot of what you see in the old examples is a result of the tools uses to make them. If you want to get that kind of finish, you have to move away from tools like belt sanders etc. which allow a lot of material removal fast, as well as easily making very accurate sharpely defined geometry. Rely more on forging to shape, and use the grinding process to clean and sharpen. So much less material removal after forging. Then you already get much closer to the more organic shapes of antique blades.
  14. Yes, definitely check out kleinanzeigen. There's a lot on there for very favorable prices. Anvils from 50 euro if you don't mind the face not being very straight, and ones below 200 euro in very nice condition. For example: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/amboss-schmiedeamboss/1693516127-84-6864 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/amboss-steckamboss-klempner-schmied-schmieden-handwerk/1667430622-84-3704 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/schmiedeamboss/1667161198-84-6806 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/amboss-alt-ca-100-kg/1655273140
×
×
  • Create New...