Jump to content
IMPORTANT Registration rules Read more... ×

Jeroen Zuiderwijk

Members
  • Content count

    1,569
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Jeroen Zuiderwijk last won the day on March 26

Jeroen Zuiderwijk had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

125 Excellent

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.facebook.com/barbarianmetalworking
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Bronze age, iron age, early medieval.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,905 profile views
  1. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    The old leaf spring debate

    P.s. I don't use most of the blades that I've forged from the leaf springs, except for a kitchen knife. That one is a lot better then the commercial ones that I use (stainless). It just stays sharp much much longer.
  2. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    The old leaf spring debate

    I have to add that I almost exclusively recycle steel myself. Most of the hardenable steel I've used are antique leaf springs from hand carts that were used in the early 20th century in my city. I got a whole pile of them for only a few euros. I also use wrought iron that comes from 17th, 18th century buildings from my city that have been renovated. I've even used some broken springs from an antique bicycle saddle that I've restored. I enjoy using materials with a history. Nice thing even that with the old leaf springs, occasionally one is shear steel too. Since these were not as highly loaded as car springs, I don't have any problems with cracks in them. A lot of rust pits though, so I have to flatten the surface before forging them, but after that, they are fine. Never had a problem quenching them either.
  3. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    The old leaf spring debate

    It's not the cheap option. Steel is cheap, fuel isn't (unless you can make your own fuel, or use waste oil as fuel f.e.). So it will generally cost you more when using scrap metal, particularly if you have failures because of it. You should only use scrap if you like the challenge of making something out of scrap, and are willing to pay the price. Just like people who like making steel from ore. That's not the cheap option either, eventhough you don't have to buy any steel at all.
  4. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    The old leaf spring debate

    One thing you have to know about leafsprings, particularly heavy loaded ones from cars/trucks, is that they suffer from metal fatigue. Metal fatigue is basically cracks forming, starting at the edges, holes etc. These start as tiny hairline cracks as soon as the springs start being used, and slowly grow throughout the use. Normally they should stay quite small, but there may be more significant cracks in there. Now if you forge, these can open up. Also, how hot are you forging? If you forge too cold, then you can get cracks. The worst thing you can do is straighten a piece out just before putting it back in the forge. On the other hand, if you keep the steel very hot for a long time, you get grain growth. This makes the steel more prone to cracking during forging, in particular the if you do the former. Annealing twice sounds insufficient. You need to go through at least 3 normalizing cycles. Break one of the cracked blades, and it can tell you a lot. What does the grain look like? And what does it look like at the crack? Is it significantly more coarse there, and/or oxidized? Then the crack was was in there before you annealed and quenched.
  5. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    yet another freakin seax topic

    Another option that either it's a fuller, or a secondary bevel like this one (can't see which of both it is):
  6. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    yet another freakin seax topic

    It's possibly a groove, like on this one:
  7. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    yet another freakin seax topic

    Those are completely different saxes. They are the baltic type, and are essentially unrelated to the Norwegian single edge saxes/swords. Very different blades, size, construction etc., and there's no cross-over in any features, other then both being single edged blades.
  8. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    sandpaper for handsanding

    Having used it for a while now myself, I must agree.
  9. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    Arctic Fire Backup Blade Finish

    That is looking really nice!
  10. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    Gas forge cement popped off - Heellppp

    Are you using a refractory cement, or a normal cement? Normal cement is not suitable for forges.
  11. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    My lastest WIP

    No guards, so you need the length to keep your hand on the handle. It works a lot like a hammer haft. As to how it was used, this shows it
  12. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    My lastest WIP

    The earliest short saxes were in that range. By the time they have developed into broad saxes, particularly the heavy broad saxes, a blade length of 40cm and width of 50mm is quite typical, with a hilt of around 22-23cm (up to 30cm). Long saxes get a bit more stretched, with a blade width of around 45mm, and blade length of around 50cm or over, with a total length including hilt at around 70 to 90 cm. The picture below gives a good size impression, with heavy broadsaxes next to swords and a longsax:
  13. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    My lastest WIP

    Cool. I'm assuming you are aware that these blades are quite a lot bigger then the test blades you've forged (and a lot bigger then bowies as well). If you need any data, dimensions, blade decorations etc. feel free to ask.
  14. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    full tang handles

    I prefer burning in myself. It's a quick method, but it requires a bit of practice, as well as having a bigger piece of wood. Drilling a hole first speeds things up, and helps with the alignment. Burning in can only be done before you do much finishing work and particularly before you harden the blade. Burning in can be done by placing the blade in a vice, press the wood against the tang (or the tang into the predrilled hole), and hit the back of the wood with a hammer or mallet. But not too hard, so you don't split the wood. It can take as little as a single heat to burn in the tang, but that depends on the density of the wood. If the tang has to extend to be able to peen it, keep the handle longer, so you can cut it off at the right length. Also recommended to keep the front end a bit longer, and burn the tang in so far that also the first part of the blade is burned in, and then cut off the handle at that end to the required length.
  15. Jeroen Zuiderwijk

    full tang handles

    Do you mean a full tang, as in scales riveted on, or a stick tang, inserted in a hole in the handle?
×