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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Jeroen Zuiderwijk

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Jeroen Zuiderwijk last won the day on December 29 2017

Jeroen Zuiderwijk had the most liked content!

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    Bronze age, iron age, early medieval.

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  1. Arctic Fire Backup Blade Finish

    That is looking really nice!
  2. Gas forge cement popped off - Heellppp

    Are you using a refractory cement, or a normal cement? Normal cement is not suitable for forges.
  3. My lastest WIP

    No guards, so you need the length to keep your hand on the handle. It works a lot like a hammer haft. As to how it was used, this shows it
  4. My lastest WIP

    The earliest short saxes were in that range. By the time they have developed into broad saxes, particularly the heavy broad saxes, a blade length of 40cm and width of 50mm is quite typical, with a hilt of around 22-23cm (up to 30cm). Long saxes get a bit more stretched, with a blade width of around 45mm, and blade length of around 50cm or over, with a total length including hilt at around 70 to 90 cm. The picture below gives a good size impression, with heavy broadsaxes next to swords and a longsax:
  5. My lastest WIP

    Cool. I'm assuming you are aware that these blades are quite a lot bigger then the test blades you've forged (and a lot bigger then bowies as well). If you need any data, dimensions, blade decorations etc. feel free to ask.
  6. full tang handles

    I prefer burning in myself. It's a quick method, but it requires a bit of practice, as well as having a bigger piece of wood. Drilling a hole first speeds things up, and helps with the alignment. Burning in can only be done before you do much finishing work and particularly before you harden the blade. Burning in can be done by placing the blade in a vice, press the wood against the tang (or the tang into the predrilled hole), and hit the back of the wood with a hammer or mallet. But not too hard, so you don't split the wood. It can take as little as a single heat to burn in the tang, but that depends on the density of the wood. If the tang has to extend to be able to peen it, keep the handle longer, so you can cut it off at the right length. Also recommended to keep the front end a bit longer, and burn the tang in so far that also the first part of the blade is burned in, and then cut off the handle at that end to the required length.
  7. full tang handles

    Do you mean a full tang, as in scales riveted on, or a stick tang, inserted in a hole in the handle?
  8. Stainless San mai

    That would not be the case. When you have SS in contact with carbon steel, the exposed carbon steel will rust a lot faster due to galvanic corrosion. It's the same as why you don't use SS bolts in a steel construction.
  9. buffing compound

    I only buff bronze blades. But if I do, I use a hand drill with cotton wheel, and clamp the blade so it can't go anywhere. The only downside is that you sometimes slip off the blade, and the drill head scratches the blade. I've taped that, to stop the damage if that happens. I prefer having the blade fixed, and the drill doesn't have as much energy to throw things like a bench grinder does, which is basically a flywheel. Aside from that, I've just learned of polishing pads, that on steel blades I find give a much better finish. My girlfriend had them for jewellery making. I've played with a small patternwelded blade I made earlier, and used the pad to polish up the pattern. The pad I used is a 3M Microfine CT2. I always found that at a 2000 grit, I'd get a very matte finish particularly on steel, and wanted to buff to bring out the shine. But with that type of pad, no buffing is needed. I've read that the grit is 1200/1500, but the finish is much better then 2000 grit sandpaper.
  10. Scythian short sword,akinakes.

    Wow, great job at that!
  11. Hammers

    It was a standard cross peen hammer, like this one:
  12. check this out.

    Just because you can do something potentially very dangerous without self harm, doesn't mean you control it and that it won't take you out or severely maim you if you keep doing it. It's just playing Russian roulette, but with confidence. People frequently say: "I always do it like this, and it's never gone wrong". To which I have to add "yet". If you do something very dangerous and stupid, you're just ticking off your lifespan. Particularly when you play with hot metal and other related dangerous stuff, if you want to enjoy it and life a good while, you need to stay away from any foolery, and treat the powers you work with with the utmost respect, and use whatever safety precautions that are out there to allow you to enjoy it for a long time.
  13. Hammers

    The best possible hammer is a bit like a calling: once you hold it, and work with it, you will know. And it's different from person to person. My favorite is a 2.5 pound Viking style cross-peen, that I forged from an existing hammer. I've used a variety of hammers, but that one just feels right. The balance is right, the feel in the hand is right. It's not even the haft. I had a crappy haft on it first (See: http://1501bc.com/metalworking/06150045.jpg), and put a decent haft on it later. But with both hafts, it felt so much better then all of my other hammers that I had at the time. The crown on that hammer was forged, simply by holding the hammer head in my tongs, and striking the anvil with it. And that just appears to make it perfect. I can forge with it holding it lightly in my hand, as it lines itself well during a strike, and doesn't twist on the rebound. So all of you energy goes into hitting the metal, and not keeping the hammer on course. I also much like the lowered peen, opposed to a centered cross peen.
  14. Scythian short sword,akinakes.

    Nice one! Are the guard and pommel separate pieces? If so, how are they fixed in place? I've made bronze ones, but of course there you can easily cast them in one piece.
  15. What did you do in your shop today?

    Yesterday was my last casting day for this year. And next year I'll probably have my hands full with other duties to do any casting (well, you never know, but not counting on it at the moment). Anyway, two big supersized bronze dirks, reproductions of the giant Ommerschans dirks (third one cast a week ago): These are about 2800 gram each when finished, for which I had to melt 4kg of bronze at the time. That's two hours of bellowing each to melt 4kg of bronze in 4 charges filling up the crucible. Plus 1,5 hours making a new mould in between (including compacting the sand with a 6 lbs hammer), crushing up 10kg of charcoal, and other jobs. I haven't done this much physical work in a while, but it felt good My furnace is working very predictable and efficient, which I'm very pleased with. It consumes about 4kg of charcoal to melt the 4kg of bronze, which is pretty good efficiency. And I feel with a bit more fine tuning of the bellowing I could lower that further. And that's for 4 charges to fill the crucible, including preheat. With the last casting, it started raining just as soon as I was getting ready to cast. As I cast out in the open, that's no good. I had covered the mould so that remained dry, and was anxiously watching rain radar, where a dry moment kept shifting forwards in time, to be followed by a heavy rain getting closer and closer. So I called my girlfriend out, to keep a cover up so I could cast shielded from the rain. I didn't like that, moisture and liquid bronze is a dangerous mix! But I had a full crucible with liquid bronze sitting in the furnace that had to go somewhere, and a mould that was still dry at least. Next time I will wait for a dry day, no matter how rare those are here or build a temporary roof, good enough to ensure everything stays dry within the casting area.