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Jeroen Zuiderwijk

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Jeroen Zuiderwijk last won the day on March 3 2019

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    Bronze age, iron age, early medieval.

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  1. Maybe, but I just take what I have close to me, and it always works quite well.
  2. Polishing wood works best using: wood. Take a piece of round wood, and just rub with it. It both burnishes and polishes the handle beautifully.
  3. That sounds very interesting. No idea of price, but I would be quite interested in some shear steel.
  4. A knife can be as small as you want. The smallest knife I've made fits at least ten times in that billet. The few times I've made a billet of laminated steel, I just kept making smaller knives from the left over bits. All still fully functional full scale reproductions of historical knives. Once I have a nice billet, I don't waste any of it. This is the smallest, a late medieval eating knife. IIRC it's about 9cm long in total, blade thickness 1mm (laminated wrought/spring steel):
  5. That is so awesome! I just love to see the progression in modern made seaxes: from poor derivatives, to good reproductions that truly honor the old blades, and then raising it further to a whole new level. That's truly putting "standing on the shoulders of giants" into practice!
  6. It's more that it sounds similar to asking how would they have added slag to wrought to get the more rough wrought. It's the other way around. Such pure ores like the black sand are a rarity here and you're very fortunate to have access to that. Most iron ore here in Europe is bog ore (red hematite), ranging in quality from poor to terrible. It takes a major effort to turn it into something usable. Another source would have been rattling stones (don't know the English term, but called "klapperstenen" in dutch) which are a bit better (black hematite I think?). The highly priced more pure ores a
  7. The local bog ore here usually has a lot of phosphorus in it. For local smelters it's a challenge to find a source that is low in phosphorus. IIRC, the high phosphorus is more purple in color. There is a lot of wrought here too that is high in phosphorus, usually used for things like wall anchors. So a lot of the wrought I find I can't use due to the high phosphorus content, which makes it impossible to forge.
  8. Phosphorus is a natural contamination in bog ore. So it's not added, it usually is a matter of getting rid of phosphorus by roasting bog ore prior to smelting. If you want to keep the phosphorus content, skip the roasting.
  9. I don't see the point of using ivory, particularly for smaller pieces? Regular cow bone is practically indistinguishable. Very few people can tell the difference.
  10. Yeah, work with a non-refundable deposit to sign up for a class, which is sufficient to cover any costs you may have made in case of cancellation. And if he passes up a chance to do a course in bladesmithing, then that's definitely his loss and him being an idiot. What person doesn't want to learn to beat and shape hot steel, play with fire and make sharp implements? That's like saying you don't like food or something :)
  11. Sweet! Also on my list of whenever I have time to make stuff again
  12. And it looks like you have been paying attention too to the hilt finds :) Nice!
  13. And it's very convex, so much so that the spine is actually thinner then the middle of the blade. It weighs 1138 gram, which is a lot for such a relatively short blade. The Heusden seax which I reproduced is a more flat grind, and 7mm at the spine. Otherwise the dimensions are comparable. But my reproduction of that one only weighs 680grams including the hilt. So the profile of the section matters a lot. The original has a fuller and grooves, so would have been even lighter. With these seaxes, mind that a lot of the weight distribution is achieved by the very long tip. Eventhough
  14. You need to add the flux well before that, or your surfaces will already have formed scale. You can add borax before you heat up your steel, though it doesn't stick then yet, or heat it to a dull red, so it melts directly onto the steel. When welding two or more pieces together, it's commonly already attached together. Most use a few tack welds, but if you don't have a welder, you can use some steel wire to hold the pieces together. Then apply flux at the gaps, and let it melt in between. Heat up to the point the borax starts to smoke, and gently tap the pieces together (soft hits, fast across
  15. The first image you show is Jorgensen's seax type 4: Sax4: OAL 68-99 cm, Blade L 51-85, W 5-5.9, Ratio blade L/W 12.6 8th C, here the only continental parallels are in north Germany/Austria, this is where the Scandinavian saxes split off at the start of the Viking era. More types and size ranges can be found in Jeff Pringle's post here:
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