Jump to content

Jeroen Zuiderwijk

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Jeroen Zuiderwijk

  1. The first image you show is Jorgensen's seax type 4: Sax4: OAL 68-99 cm, Blade L 51-85, W 5-5.9, Ratio blade L/W 12.6 8th C, here the only continental parallels are in north Germany/Austria, this is where the Scandinavian saxes split off at the start of the Viking era. More types and size ranges can be found in Jeff Pringle's post here:
  2. This should have been obvious, but don't put a damp crucible into the furnace. I'd left it outside after a casting to cool down, when rain had passed over. It looked dry, so I thought it must not have been in the rain directly. Aparantly it was, it just soaked it up well. Anyway, that cost me a these days precious and rare casting opportunity, and 65 euro for a new crucible. I'd have had another sword if I'd been more careful.
  3. It's not a topic for that group, as it focusses on recreating techniques from the past only. The important thing is how do the alloys you want to fuse together behave at the right temperature. Are they forgeable at that heat? Traditional tin bronze isn''t, it will just crumble . The only way to fuse those is to have alloys with enough difference in melting point, and have one melt while the other stays solid. A trick to make that easier is to melt the bronze with the low melting point first in a crucible, take the crucible out of the furnace, and stick the other alloy into the crucible. That way the colder metal will cool the liquid bronze, so it will all solidify into a solid lump. And then you have to cut that to size, and cold work/anneal if you want to work it further.
  4. And yesterday behind the furnace for the first time since my daughter was born. Another of the big bronze Ommerschans dirks (one more, then I'm done casting these):
  5. From: https://www.carnmetals.co.uk/ I got one of their big 26kg ingots years ago. The first 16kg is gone, partly sold and partly used up by myself (no idea on what, it went much faster then I expected :) ). This last chunk still had to be processed into smaller bits.
  6. First time since my daughter is born I got to cast something again I have the house for myself due to construction work being done, so I'm taking the opportunity to do some metalwork. I had a 10kg tin ingot that had to be turned into more manageable size pieces, so they can be cut to size for future casting projects. So the large ingot went into the kitchen oven in an old pan at 250C, and 2 hours later cast into ingots.
  7. Personally I find horns a nuisance, which are terribly in the way. So an old style hornless anvil or a large size square stake anvil I find ideal for bladesmithing, preferably with a lot of mass right below the edges, the heavier the better. A hardy hole on one side can be quite helpful. At least there should be two sides at a right angle without anything in the way like a horn or a hardy hole, which is where I do all of the beveling etc.
  8. There's an Anglo-Saxon one in the British Museum that is quite slender and light weight. I believe the complete sword weighs about 750gram.
  9. What you experience is the van der Waals force between the two plates. If you get the atoms close enough, they start to attract eachother. But for them to bond, they have flat at the atomic level. At that point, the plates would become one by simply touching them together. You may experience that some spots do weld together, which need to be broken apart though, particularly if you press them together.
  10. The last part isn't true. It can't get colder, as temperature is defined by the vibrational motion of atoms, rather then the motion being a result of temperature. So zero vibrational motion of atoms is the absolute lowest possible temperature. It's not the lowest enthalpy state however, but that is not temperature.
  11. Some things to keep in mind, on the mainland (Frankish Empire), seaxes disappear either during or shortly after the reign of Charlemagne (followed by Louis the Pious). In the Isles, they disappear after the Norman conquest. History isn't really my thing though. And yeah, I don't fancy spending the precious time I have to write a book. I've uploaded most of the photos and documents I have (still in progress of adding more) to the facebook group. So basically if you go there you can quite easily catch up on what I know on the subject.
  12. I don't know, changes in regulations, battle tactics etc. In the Isles you also had seaxes of short size as well as longsaxes, while on the continent there were only longseaxes, which formed part of warriors weapon kits. I suspect that the shorter ones were carried by civilians as personal defence. Something also to keep in mind is that burrying the dead with their weapons stopped around the same time as seaxes disappear from the archaeological record. So there may have been more around then the archaeological record shows. However, swords continu to be found in later periods, while seaxes disappear.
  13. Before patternwelding became common, seaxes were constructed the same way as knives, which just about any combination to have a steel edge and iron body. However, I've never seen a fully steel seax with an iron tang welded onto it myself. Rounded spines on seaxes were used simultaneously in Anglo Saxon and Frankish regions. The broken back shape is later, and the reason you mostly see them from the British Isles is because seaxes disappear from the archaeological record in Frankish regions at the time the broken back becomes the common style.
  14. I've never seen this on any of the seaxes I've studied. Which seaxes were these?
  15. I'm guessing the owner must have lost more then just his knife.
  16. Not that I know of. The blades are pretty corroded, and I see no sign of patternwelding.
  17. Exactly, and a bit oval in top view.
  18. And just for fun, here's one of the most extreme original examples. Max blade width 87mm! Blade length 415mm.
  19. Just for completeness sake, here's a picture of what it's like finished. I've finished it many years ago but never uploaded photos to this thread. Just to be clear, while the blade is based on an original, the handle isn't and most likely was just a straight, longer hilt much like on other seaxes. However, more complete examples need to be found to be certain about that.
  20. And there's also one with horn hilt plates remaining, but the pommel not preserved. I've reproduced that hilt on one of my Ewart Park swords (blade cast by Neil Burridge).
  21. I only just see this thread now. You're not far of, but some differences in shape were used with regards to the pommel shape and the hilt ending. Of the Ewart Park style sword, several examples have been found where the hilt was made either partially or entirely of (hollow) bronze, which show what the hilt shapes would have been.
  22. It's a pretty common practice among antiques dealers to put fake hilts on authentic pieces. A complete looking piece sells better then an incomplete one. There's even a seax in the National museum here that has various bits of belt plates etc. glued together to form a hilt. The one with the bronze hilt I am pretty certain that it's a fake, inspired by the wooden hilted one. The blade is probably real, but the hilt certainly isn't. It's a broad seax with an iron bolster. Iron bolsters on broad seaxes are fairly rare, except on Langobardic ones, where nearly all of them have an iron bolster. So there's a good chance that the blade is Langobardic. The one with the "wooden" hilt may be the real thing. But I strongly suspect that the hilt isn't wood. It looks more like bone or horn to me. But anything that doesn't come through official archaeological circles I automatically assume to be a fake or messed with, unless there is very strong evidence to prove otherwise. And anything that does come through archaeological circles that looks off, I still don't trust. Much of the collections of museums also comes through antiques dealers or from private owners, and a lot has been messed around. Provenances are falsified, bits are "restored" or faked and sometimes the entire artifacts are highly questionable, even in official museum collections. This is why artifacts are found by archaeologists and properly documented are so much more valuable.
  23. That's not the case. Copper alloys can take up hydrogen and oxygen. Hydrogen causes brittleness and oxygen causes porosity. So you need to ensure the metal is in a reducing environment (preferably have some charcoal floating in it if you use a gass forge), and don't overheat it. The hotter and longer the metal is heated, the more gasses it absorbs.
  • Create New...