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Jeroen Zuiderwijk

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Everything posted by Jeroen Zuiderwijk

  1. A dirty weld, with carbon diffused into the iron I would say. The dirtier the weld, the less both layers are attached. But considering the diffusion of the carbon into the iron, quite a significant amount of the surface between both layers must have bonded.
  2. I've used petrobond sand a lot. It's great in that it it's quite stable and doesn't fall apart easily (though between petrobond sands there is quite a bit of variation) and allows very fine detail. Downside is that you get internal porosity in the cast due to the oil burning, and the gasses being dragged down with the metal. I've not found a way to completely avoid that, but sharp corners for the metal to flow over should be avoided, and it should be hammered together as compact as possible to reduce the effect. You don't notice those internal bubbles, unless you grind into the cast.
  3. That's a fantastic blade Mareko! I've been breaking my head on how these were made. But I guess the best way to find out is to just go and do it, or playing with playdoh a lot. I'm still thinking in terms of billets, and cutting and stacking, rather then individual moziac elements stuck together, though of course I could be wrong. I expect it to come from what went before, in gradual steps playing with the known techniques and creating new variations by additional steps on top of the known patterns. Also to keep in mind that they didn't have welders, so everything had to be kept together mech
  4. Considering the time I used to spend on it in the past, it was pretty much a second job, just not a paying one (not much at least).
  5. Still lurking about. My activity in making is still very low, although since two months I have the odd hour here and there to progress on filing and finishing the one big job I still have to get done (another big bronze ceremonial sword) before I'm free to make stuff again just for fun. But ever since becoming a dad nearly 4 years ago, it's been "if I can get this and that off my list, I can finally spend some time on hobbies again" and then the next thing comes along. Beginning last year it seemed tangible, and then Covid came along and changed my plans entirely. Finishing the room for my dau
  6. Nice work! That socketed flanged axe is a bit of an oddball isn't it?
  7. We also happen to be in week 42 b.t.w. And it just happens that 42 was the hardest sum of three cubes solution to solve, which took a global network of computers months to crack it: https://news.mit.edu/2019/answer-life-universe-and-everything-sum-three-cubes-mathematics-0910 So there you have it. The ultimate question is (-80538738812075974)^3 + 80435758145817515^3 + 12602123297335631^3
  8. That depends entirely on the cast. The more solid, the colder the mould and the thinner, the hotter it needs to be. Some objects can be cast in cold moulds, and for others (thin walled casts in particular) it can be near the melting point of bronze to have any chance of the casting being complete. But the gate and vent system also plays a large role in this. The more and bigger the gates and vents are, the easier it casts and the colder you can allow the mould to be. However, the size and placement of the gates and vents need to be such that the air can escape correctly, and the gates such tha
  9. "Perhaps I'm old and tired, but I think that the chances of finding out what's actually going on are so absurdly remote that the only thing to do is to say, "Hang the sense of it," and keep yourself busy. I'd much rather be happy than right any day." To me the most important lesson from THGTTG and something I try to live by (and I'm getting older and more tired by the day )
  10. Also worth keeping in mind, anything thinner then 3mm, the bronze will have difficulty entering. Below 3mm the number of failures grows exponentially. Below 2mm, you can pretty much forget. Then the surface tension of the bronze is too great to be overcome with gravity and you'll either need centrifugal casting or vaccuum casting. And in addition to that, bronze needs time to fill the mould. And to have that time, the mould should be hot enough to allow the metal to fill the mould before it solidifies. That doesn't mean hotter is better. The hotter the mould, the slower the metal c
  11. You know, I've found a great use for cheap, case hardened files: you can bend them easily, which is quite handy if you have to file inside all kinds of curved shapes.
  12. You know I did guitar lessons for two years. If I were to pick up a guitar now I'd be like: ".... ehhh I got nothing". Apparently you need to practice too if you take lessons I'd probably be able to play a few songs again though if I were to dive into the tabs and practice a bit.
  13. Yeah, I've had similar problems. Also with nordic gold (or real fake pirate gold as I also know it ), which also contains aluminium. Thanks for reminding me not to deal with this, and certainly not messing up my crucibles with it! If it casts, it looks nice. But it very easily turns into a sticky goo if you try to melt it.
  14. If you just leave it bare, it will become dark due to use, and loose all the characteristic looks of olive wood. I've had an Opinel with olive wood handle for years. It looked great new, but after a few months of use it just looks like a random dark colored wood.
  15. Well, not really. Unless you mean Swedish style seaxes. But there we already knew that fancy carved handles were used. For other regions, the archeological evidence still points towards undecorated hilts.
  16. Most certainly not. It's not even closely related to broken back style seaxes. It's more likely a Jorgensen's type 1 sax (narrow sax).
  17. Well today it wouldn't be, as it's archeology based. But it also depends where you apply it. If you'd put this handle on a broad sax, or broken back style seax, then you'd rightfully be scorned for it
  18. It's correct. I have a kitchen knife that I forged 7 or 8 years ago, which hasn't developed a single speck of rust, despite it being in a pretty humid house (70-80% humidity). I clean and dry it directly after use, and it hangs free from the wall in the kitchen, so there can be no moisture trapped against the blade. It's only during prolonged contact with moist that rust will start to develop.
  19. A lot of what you see in the old examples is a result of the tools uses to make them. If you want to get that kind of finish, you have to move away from tools like belt sanders etc. which allow a lot of material removal fast, as well as easily making very accurate sharpely defined geometry. Rely more on forging to shape, and use the grinding process to clean and sharpen. So much less material removal after forging. Then you already get much closer to the more organic shapes of antique blades.
  20. Yes, definitely check out kleinanzeigen. There's a lot on there for very favorable prices. Anvils from 50 euro if you don't mind the face not being very straight, and ones below 200 euro in very nice condition. For example: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/amboss-schmiedeamboss/1693516127-84-6864 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/amboss-steckamboss-klempner-schmied-schmieden-handwerk/1667430622-84-3704 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/schmiedeamboss/1667161198-84-6806 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/amboss-alt-ca-100-kg/1655273140
  21. That's if you look at the highly overpriced buy-it-now adverts on ebay.de. If you keep an eye out for auctions, you'll get one for much less. But still ebay is the more pricy option. It would be cheaper to get one offline. But that takes a bit more exploring to find a place that may have them, such as used tool stores, antique, curiosa and garden ornament stores etc. I don't know if you are near the dutch border, but here I at least know my way. And the dutch marketplace is more favorable then ebay, with a large amount of anvils for decent prices.
  22. For Germany, that would be very expensive. I'd expect he should be able to find something like that for less then 100 euro easily with a bit of searching.
  23. Erm, none of those things belong in an anvil. An anvil should be a solid piece of steel, nothing more. What you describe is something that will take out as much of the energy from you hammer as possible, which is exactly the opposite of what an anvil should do. In that case you might just as well use a bag of sand as an anvil. I see that you live in Germany, so finding old anvils shouldn't be that much of a problem. If you are concerned about ringing, get an old church window style anvil. Those are mostly wrough, and don't ring very much. If that's too large, then get a stump anvil of decent s
  24. I've been following that one. Great to see how it all came together!
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