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About WES

  • Birthday 06/03/1962

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    Thermopolis, Wyoming
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  1. Really like the Damascus blade and beauty of the wood. A perfectly round handle can be a bit challenging to use much of the time though as indexing your edge in use requires looking for your edge and adjusting.
  2. My personal favorite and inspiring video maker for forging and sword making is Freerk Wieringa. Check him out. Forgot to mention that these are Youtube videos.
  3. I mix up a little spray bottle of 1/2&1/2 distilled water and simply green and it works quite well.
  4. Ok, I give! I've been forging out a lot of damascus lately, both cable and layered and I'm tired of having to cool off the square bar handles. That being said, some time back,(and I have no idea how far) I saw a modified set of vise grip pliers fashioned to slide over and clamp down on a square 1 inch bar stub welded onto the billet of damascus, leaving your detachable handle always cool. I'm not even sure if it was on this site but I've googled this to death, and searched these sites as far back as I care to, which isn't very far anymore since photobucket shafted everyone, all pics shared fro
  5. I've done a good bit of looking and come up empty so I'm just going to ask! I acquired a press from uncle ALs and not had alot of time on it yet but I'm now in the process of building various dies for it(rounding dies done) and I'm now on to the squaring dies. I know I'll need two to three different sizes but my question is this, how much undersized would the dies need to be for getting a good welding squeeze on say a 2 inch canister? I've got heavy 2 inch angle iron for this that I can shorten the sides down on (because it stands to reason that making them full sized will not put much squeeze
  6. I've always enjoyed this forum topic and as long as I've been pounding out blades I've never purposely tried for a good Hamon. So this is my first try at it, still somewhat unclear about all the polishing process's . This steel is Aldo's 1075. I didn't have any sort of clay for coating the blade but I did have some dried and clumped up ITC100 which I pulverized and added water to until it was like mustard. I polished the blade to 1500 and briefly etched in ferric etchant, then cleaned up with 2000 grit and then used some titanium carbide powder(about 3000 grit) that a rock polisher gave me, mi
  7. It's called "knifemaking unplugged", or s some others define it as "tribal"knifemaking!
  8. To my minds eye, if the object in question was fashioned through the use of a programmed machine, then it was not "hand made". Lots of grey area there to be debated though. I strongly admire fine double shotguns and rifles for there beauty and the way they fit and function and are decorated, yet, most of the steel parts they are made with are in fact cnc cut, even the stock blanks are often roughed out on a programmed machine, but ALL the final fitting and finishing are meticulously done by hand, by very skilled craftsmen. So do you admire them as being Handmade, or, handcrafted? A buyer who p
  9. Sorry to hear about your loss! Even here in the wide open spaces of Wyoming we are experiencing a raging meth problem. Missing and rotted teeth are the dead give away around here for Identifying a user. Had a weapon stolen from a hidden compartment of my locked truck last year, they left the loaded spare clip in the ashtray and the two full box's of ammo in the glove box, so I know it was someone close to me, which is why they still have two hands, yet! Only other thing I've had stolen three separate times now(3 damn times), are my bottles of windex which I use for neutralizing etching acid, c
  10. My two cents here! been doing this for just over thirty years now,and the first twenty I did little to protect myself. My forges and grinders were usually in fairly open spaces with good ventilation. about 8 years ago I went through a couple major operations(unrelated to my forging and knifemaking), but I spent months on my back and full of anti biotics, which afterwards left me with little ability to fight off anything, my respiratory system has suffered the most in the way of developing asthma and allergies, sinus infections,etc. My daily routines now involve doing sinus flushes sever
  11. Very nice blade for that handle. This reinforces my hard learned motto about designing a blade to go with an antler, rather than finding an antler,or horn, to go with a blade.
  12. Nice! I'm going to start trying flux free welding and have read a bit on it, but have not read of anyone welding up cable this way and was wondering if it works for cable. I'm not meaning to side rail your post, but thought you might have some insight on this , thanks.
  13. If you are going to go through another rehardening again, and it were me, I would recommend first doing a single normalizing on the blade just to get that grain more even throughout for a better result. Also, if your hardening is good, 335 as a tempering temp will leave an edge that will most likely chip on you in use. I've found 350 to be the lowest i would go with 365 to 375 giving the best for a servicable edge that you can still resharpen in the field.
  14. A few years ago I moved back to Wyoming(not by choice) from Kodiak Island ,AK, and I found lots of blacksmithing items there but the one that stood out the most(actually found several of them) were ships swedge "plates" from the old days. These were actually huge swedge blocks used the same way we use the smaller blocks, only these were 4ftx4ft and 5 and 6 inches thick. The one I saw on a daily basis had been sitting in a yard next to the shore for the last 40 years, at times of really high tide it was partially covered by water, but was still in pretty good shape, and will most likely be ther
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