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Everything posted by WES

  1. Really like the Damascus blade and beauty of the wood. A perfectly round handle can be a bit challenging to use much of the time though as indexing your edge in use requires looking for your edge and adjusting.
  2. My personal favorite and inspiring video maker for forging and sword making is Freerk Wieringa. Check him out. Forgot to mention that these are Youtube videos.
  3. I mix up a little spray bottle of 1/2&1/2 distilled water and simply green and it works quite well.
  4. Ok, I give! I've been forging out a lot of damascus lately, both cable and layered and I'm tired of having to cool off the square bar handles. That being said, some time back,(and I have no idea how far) I saw a modified set of vise grip pliers fashioned to slide over and clamp down on a square 1 inch bar stub welded onto the billet of damascus, leaving your detachable handle always cool. I'm not even sure if it was on this site but I've googled this to death, and searched these sites as far back as I care to, which isn't very far anymore since photobucket shafted everyone, all pics shared from there have disapeared, and this subject tool will be hard to imagine without pics. So, anybody out there know what I might be talking about and maybe help me an others out ? I would love to build a pair without having to reinvent them. Thanks
  5. I've done a good bit of looking and come up empty so I'm just going to ask! I acquired a press from uncle ALs and not had alot of time on it yet but I'm now in the process of building various dies for it(rounding dies done) and I'm now on to the squaring dies. I know I'll need two to three different sizes but my question is this, how much undersized would the dies need to be for getting a good welding squeeze on say a 2 inch canister? I've got heavy 2 inch angle iron for this that I can shorten the sides down on (because it stands to reason that making them full sized will not put much squeeze on the can) but I don't want to distort the canister a great deal either by making them too much smaller. Can anybody help me on this? thanks!
  6. I've always enjoyed this forum topic and as long as I've been pounding out blades I've never purposely tried for a good Hamon. So this is my first try at it, still somewhat unclear about all the polishing process's . This steel is Aldo's 1075. I didn't have any sort of clay for coating the blade but I did have some dried and clumped up ITC100 which I pulverized and added water to until it was like mustard. I polished the blade to 1500 and briefly etched in ferric etchant, then cleaned up with 2000 grit and then used some titanium carbide powder(about 3000 grit) that a rock polisher gave me, mixed with a bit of clove oil rubbed on the edge. I have a lot of fine tuning to get the effects most of you here are getting. Practice, practice, practice.
  7. It's called "knifemaking unplugged", or s some others define it as "tribal"knifemaking!
  8. To my minds eye, if the object in question was fashioned through the use of a programmed machine, then it was not "hand made". Lots of grey area there to be debated though. I strongly admire fine double shotguns and rifles for there beauty and the way they fit and function and are decorated, yet, most of the steel parts they are made with are in fact cnc cut, even the stock blanks are often roughed out on a programmed machine, but ALL the final fitting and finishing are meticulously done by hand, by very skilled craftsmen. So do you admire them as being Handmade, or, handcrafted? A buyer who pays $80,000 for a handmade, or, a handcrafted shotgun, does not quibble about whether the reciever was cnc cut, or drilled and filed to perfection. Handmade or handcrafted? This is one of those questions that is always to have a debatable definition. Just my view.
  9. Sorry to hear about your loss! Even here in the wide open spaces of Wyoming we are experiencing a raging meth problem. Missing and rotted teeth are the dead give away around here for Identifying a user. Had a weapon stolen from a hidden compartment of my locked truck last year, they left the loaded spare clip in the ashtray and the two full box's of ammo in the glove box, so I know it was someone close to me, which is why they still have two hands, yet! Only other thing I've had stolen three separate times now(3 damn times), are my bottles of windex which I use for neutralizing etching acid, couldn't figure that one out for the longest time till I got curious one day, and I googled "Windex for drug use", and low and behold, it finally made sense to me, these idiot's are spraying their pot buds before roling and smoking, go figure! Anyway, I now live in an apartment over my shop so my place is always monitored, but some sort of surveillance camera sounds like good advise.
  10. My two cents here! been doing this for just over thirty years now,and the first twenty I did little to protect myself. My forges and grinders were usually in fairly open spaces with good ventilation. about 8 years ago I went through a couple major operations(unrelated to my forging and knifemaking), but I spent months on my back and full of anti biotics, which afterwards left me with little ability to fight off anything, my respiratory system has suffered the most in the way of developing asthma and allergies, sinus infections,etc. My daily routines now involve doing sinus flushes several times a day. These were "very" difficult for me to get used too, but now, they actually are a great relief each time. The reason I'm mentioning all this is that after a full day of forging, and particularly grinding(both metal, and any and all handle materials)I'm amazed at all the particulate matter that flushes out, even after wearing a face mask. I wear the painters masks when I do wear one, they are not great and my glasses always fog up, but they do help. Hind site being what it is, if I had known how effective sinus flushing was way back then, It would have certainly become a religious practice for me. Now I know the flushing won't do anything for whatever goes in your lungs, but I've found two things that help me most, the first is a good fan blowing crossways at your grinding station(if you don't have a dust collection system), and second, always use the most course grit abrasive possible when removing the bulk, rather than the finer grits. Your particulate matter will be bigger and heavier and not float in your breathing space as much or as long, and is easier for your lungs and sinuses to expell. Any kind of masking is better than nothing, and these guys are spot on about the floating fibers from forge liners, the gases will not be a problem if your not sticking your face in the front of the forge, which you shouldn't be doing anyway because then you will have to deal with your vision problems. Anyway, consider the sinus flushing practice, when done right, it can only help.
  11. Very nice blade for that handle. This reinforces my hard learned motto about designing a blade to go with an antler, rather than finding an antler,or horn, to go with a blade.
  12. Nice! I'm going to start trying flux free welding and have read a bit on it, but have not read of anyone welding up cable this way and was wondering if it works for cable. I'm not meaning to side rail your post, but thought you might have some insight on this , thanks.
  13. If you are going to go through another rehardening again, and it were me, I would recommend first doing a single normalizing on the blade just to get that grain more even throughout for a better result. Also, if your hardening is good, 335 as a tempering temp will leave an edge that will most likely chip on you in use. I've found 350 to be the lowest i would go with 365 to 375 giving the best for a servicable edge that you can still resharpen in the field.
  14. A few years ago I moved back to Wyoming(not by choice) from Kodiak Island ,AK, and I found lots of blacksmithing items there but the one that stood out the most(actually found several of them) were ships swedge "plates" from the old days. These were actually huge swedge blocks used the same way we use the smaller blocks, only these were 4ftx4ft and 5 and 6 inches thick. The one I saw on a daily basis had been sitting in a yard next to the shore for the last 40 years, at times of really high tide it was partially covered by water, but was still in pretty good shape, and will most likely be there for the next hundred years. I can't imagine how much that thing must weigh. I have a friend there that collects blacksmithing items and could open a museum of blacksmithing if he wanted. When I left he was in the process of rebuilding a 2000lb steam driven powerhammer that came off the AK railroad. I would travel back there just to see it running if I could, hopefully during a good salmon run!
  15. The bottom of the ricasso needs a more defining outline?
  16. I have some cans of "Sperm Oil" sold long ago by Brownells and it's excellent for firearms lube, even stock conditioner. It has the same smell you described but is a clear waxy fluid. It's scarce, and I wish I had a bunch more.
  17. It's a nice idea, but in the day and age we live in, it's not probable that one can come up with a blade profile that has never been done before. Now I did say profile, and maybe that is not what's unique to your design, may be it's a contour or geometry your talking about, and if it's a mechanical aspect, that another story. Today every single design that is born comes from a minds eye that has seen dozens, hundreds, even thousnds of different blades. We see a good aspect of each knife that appeals to us, and combine many of those aspects into one blade, this has been done over and over again down through time, but, I'm not telling you anything new, and I hope your design might shed a new and appealing light on a good design for us all.
  18. Have used lots of purple heart, you couldn't stabilize it if you tried. It's to dense and full of it's own resins.
  19. I have several orders for katana's with 29.5" blades and the cross section and the tsuba will be just over .250 when finished so the available barstock thickness is undersized.
  20. I am wanting some W2 barstock .375x1, or some round stock that I can work down; nothing to large as my hammers are only 50pders.
  21. If you follow the link and fill out the order specs, you will see it as "out of stock". I spoke with ALDO yesterday and he confirmed that, and is not expecting a shipment until May if his order gets placed. I decided to go with his low manganese 1075 for now but would like to purchase some W2 from members here if Christmas is good to me. USAknifemakers has very little W2 actually in stock and what they do have is not in the dimensions I need.
  22. Well, I haven't placed an order with him yet. This info was from his secretary, he hasn't gotten back to me yet. Would you still be interested in selling any?
  23. I'm hoping to find someone who would have some W2 barstock or round stock they would sell. I have a few sword orders to get started on and Aldo is out and not expecting a shipment until 06/15. I have several 50pd powerhamers so I can draw it down if it's not to large. Thanks, Wes
  24. I like it too! I just took my first order for a Japanese katana, 26inch to 29inch blade. The customer wants a more modern two handed handle though. All new territory for me, and I just ordered the forging and heat treating video's from Walter Sorrells site for as much in site as I can get. I will probably be ordering up some W2. Wes
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