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Ben Potter

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Ben Potter last won the day on April 30 2016

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About Ben Potter

  • Birthday 09/17/1982

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    Spending time with loved ones, Celto-Norse lore, Sailing, Shroud-sticking, traditional arts and crafts, woodcraft, sustainable living, reading.

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  1. My friend has one with an inferred sensor built in and one (that died) with programmable times/temps. Pretty nice cause you can prevent over heating...IF you take the time to set it
  2. Thanks for all the replies. After spending the better part of the day in research I think what I'm looking for is powder metallurgy with a high temp sintering. I still dream of a sea water safe sailing knife...
  3. It's called cermet for CERamic METal. Turns out you can make it in a microwave with argon if you use alumina and titanium. It is used for metal cutting circular saw blades.
  4. The forges can be programmed for temps and hold times etc.
  5. Will titanium wet silicon carbide (or aluminum oxide) when it is melted? Titanium melt point: 3034 F Silicon carbide melt point: 4946 F Take powdered titanium and mix evenly with powdered silicon carbide heat to ~3500F vacuum cast to shape, final shaping with diamond tooling. My question is will the titanium wet (stick to) the silicon carbide making a tough but very abrasion resistant matrix or will it not stick making an expensive crumbly mess? Aluminum oxide is another option but the melting point is only ~700F from the Titanium. Way over my head on this one.
  6. If you are using water cooled grinders for stock removal the back of the blade would be annealed (or what ever temper it comes with) and the edge would be hard. Or in the case of spring tempered saw blank material the edge/teeth could be hardened and the back left at spring temper. No real advantage in most cases just an idea I've had for years and would like to try out.
  7. Here ya go: Induction forge HT Another one of the whole process(and yes you are not supposed to touch the coil with metal...) Induction forge quench edge hardening UHF induction set up
  8. I'm interested in trying out a new HT method. Using an induction forge to heat only the edge then water or oil quench. A clay coating could be used to help avoid vapor jacket and control the "hamon" and avoid over oxidation/decarb. My question is what steel would be best? I normally use NJSB 1075, 1084, and 1095(my favorite). My initial thought was to go with 1084 because it is eutectic and shouldn't need as much of a soak time. I've also been thinking of trying W2. Any thoughts?
  9. I'm not actually planning on using this for pattern welding but for things like springs, saws, stock removal knives, etc. That's why I need it straight and the temper intact if possible. Someone recommended a carbide steel cutting circular saw but I've heard mixed reviews of those for hardened steel.
  10. That is the other type of shear I was thinking about. I wonder which would have less distortion. I think I have access to one of those now that I think about it...I'll have to give it a shot tomorrow.
  11. Well, done! Way better than my first or second or third...
  12. I tried a small plate shear and it cuts it pretty well but the one I have in only 4" wide and I need at least 8". Is there a type of shear that will not warp the steel, as I need the pieces to be straight. I have been looking at this one: Northern Tool plate shear
  13. I'm looking for a quick way to cut strips of admirals 15n20 steel. It comes in 8x36x.062" tempered sheets. I have used an angle grinder (slow and prone to burning), a plasma cutter(faster, but leaves a HAZ that wastes material) and a hacksaw(WAY too slow). I am wondering about a plate shear or any other method that would be quick and not waste too much material. It needs to not warp it either. Thanks
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