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Ben Potter

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Everything posted by Ben Potter

  1. My friend has one with an inferred sensor built in and one (that died) with programmable times/temps. Pretty nice cause you can prevent over heating...IF you take the time to set it
  2. Thanks for all the replies. After spending the better part of the day in research I think what I'm looking for is powder metallurgy with a high temp sintering. I still dream of a sea water safe sailing knife...
  3. It's called cermet for CERamic METal. Turns out you can make it in a microwave with argon if you use alumina and titanium. It is used for metal cutting circular saw blades.
  4. The forges can be programmed for temps and hold times etc.
  5. Will titanium wet silicon carbide (or aluminum oxide) when it is melted? Titanium melt point: 3034 F Silicon carbide melt point: 4946 F Take powdered titanium and mix evenly with powdered silicon carbide heat to ~3500F vacuum cast to shape, final shaping with diamond tooling. My question is will the titanium wet (stick to) the silicon carbide making a tough but very abrasion resistant matrix or will it not stick making an expensive crumbly mess? Aluminum oxide is another option but the melting point is only ~700F from the Titanium. Way over my head on this one.
  6. If you are using water cooled grinders for stock removal the back of the blade would be annealed (or what ever temper it comes with) and the edge would be hard. Or in the case of spring tempered saw blank material the edge/teeth could be hardened and the back left at spring temper. No real advantage in most cases just an idea I've had for years and would like to try out.
  7. Here ya go: Induction forge HT Another one of the whole process(and yes you are not supposed to touch the coil with metal...) Induction forge quench edge hardening UHF induction set up
  8. I'm interested in trying out a new HT method. Using an induction forge to heat only the edge then water or oil quench. A clay coating could be used to help avoid vapor jacket and control the "hamon" and avoid over oxidation/decarb. My question is what steel would be best? I normally use NJSB 1075, 1084, and 1095(my favorite). My initial thought was to go with 1084 because it is eutectic and shouldn't need as much of a soak time. I've also been thinking of trying W2. Any thoughts?
  9. I'm not actually planning on using this for pattern welding but for things like springs, saws, stock removal knives, etc. That's why I need it straight and the temper intact if possible. Someone recommended a carbide steel cutting circular saw but I've heard mixed reviews of those for hardened steel.
  10. That is the other type of shear I was thinking about. I wonder which would have less distortion. I think I have access to one of those now that I think about it...I'll have to give it a shot tomorrow.
  11. Well, done! Way better than my first or second or third...
  12. I tried a small plate shear and it cuts it pretty well but the one I have in only 4" wide and I need at least 8". Is there a type of shear that will not warp the steel, as I need the pieces to be straight. I have been looking at this one: Northern Tool plate shear
  13. I'm looking for a quick way to cut strips of admirals 15n20 steel. It comes in 8x36x.062" tempered sheets. I have used an angle grinder (slow and prone to burning), a plasma cutter(faster, but leaves a HAZ that wastes material) and a hacksaw(WAY too slow). I am wondering about a plate shear or any other method that would be quick and not waste too much material. It needs to not warp it either. Thanks
  14. I've been looking at the helve type hammers, and beam hammers some look good some not so much. They tend to be much more efficient than some of the other types, but less safe and less powerful. The de lisle hammer is pretty nice once you have the compressor to power it. I love the thought of not needing electricity to forge, but I also like my joints the way they are (or at least don't want them any worse). Thanks for all the input.
  15. Well, the prototype worked pretty well, got it yo hit hard enough to break itself to pieces... Pretty good snap and not terrible speed. But, using a treadle puts a pretty good load on your (or at least my) lumbar spine...So power hammer it is. Thanks Alan for mentioning the health aspects I had stupidly overlooked.
  16. Hmmm, that is an excellent point, I have a really messed up back from an EMS injury, which is why I've been looking into treadle/power hammers in the first place. I'll have to go out and stomp something for an hour and see what happens. OTOH If you look at how a striker swings a hammer, long swing that accelerates the whole way, and compare it to most treadle hammers, short stroke with very little snap I wonder what would happen if one designed a treadle hammer with a long snappy stroke. E=mv2 so if the hammer head weighed 1//2 less but it hits twice as fast each hit has twice the energy and you have twice as many hits so theoretically 4x the power...ish.
  17. Here is sort of what I was talking about. Most of the video he has the hammer set like most of the ones you see low mechanical advantage, high control, for use with tooling. but when he is talking about the belt used for adjustment and sets the belt all the way back you can see how much faster the hammer hits/reciprocates. Treadle hammer with belt adjustment. I have a prototype in the shop that i'm messing with and it seems possible (otoh the Anyang 33 is persistently calling to me...)
  18. I've been toying with the idea of building a treadle hammer. Most of the designs I've seen are designed for heavy controlled hits for using tooling. 100lb yup low mechanical advantage treadle. Are there treadle hammers designed for faster use? My thought was legs are stronger than arms and have more endurance, so it should be possible to forge harder and for a longer time if the hammer was designed for fast enough reciprocation. I know it won't be like a power hammer, but could use a workout anyway and could motorize it in the future. Ever seen a hammer like that?
  19. What would happen if you took a double acting cylinder and attatch the pump/valve to the rod side and a precharged accumulator to the other. Sort of like a excavator breaker?
  20. Thanks all. Any idea how fast the different hammers hit? I haven't found any velocities listed only bps/bpm which doesn't tell how much "snap" the hammer does. I can hit at about 1bps with my 6lb(for a limited time) and would be happy with a hammer that could hit that hard but at 2-4bps. I have access to an anyang 55, which is a sweet hammer, but it is way over kill for most of my work. Bigger is better...till it goes through the slab , and I don't own my shop space so hammers that require a foundation or are overly noisy are out. I have looked into treadle hammers but the ones I have seen are too slow, if I could get a treadle capable of hitting faster than my hand hammer that would be just the ticket, but hands are faster than legs usually (perhaps a pedal power one that struck with each leg?). Thanks again.
  21. Is there a rough rule of thumb for comparing the two? i.e. I do most of my forging with a 6lb hand hammer, if I want a power hammer that has about the same impact force (but higher rate) how would one figure that out? Thanks in advance, Ben
  22. That is what I thought, because I was thinking about a spool type devider, and didn't realize that the gear types act as a pump on the unpowered side and suck the fluid in...in theory anyway.
  23. Thanks so much. Especially for the tip about adding the 15% loss into the calculations. Here is a link to the article about the flow divider Use a flow divider to double cylinder speed. I have another idea but I need to crunch the numbers and see if it is even theoretically possible.
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