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Alan W.

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About Alan W.

  • Birthday 01/07/1965

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Central Massachusetts
  • Interests
    18th century swords and knives
  1. Thanks, gentlemen. I had thought of mixing the dye with alcohol but wanted to see what came up here. I had not thought of leather dye OR keying the surface with vinegar. I've made up some test pieces and will try those....I'll post results. If anyone else has other ideas, please let me know. Thanks again!
  2. I am looking to dye a polished (no brown left) and carved antler handle green for an 18th century sword I am making. I have tried Lockwood aniline green dye powder in water and it soaks in to the soft inner part but barely touches the polished outside. Any ideas on how to do this better? Thanks!
  3. Where else might i get these things?
  4. I sent the emailasking for: · (1) Z burner $75 · (1) Simple gas forge Burner holder $25 · (1) Single burner Connection kit $77 · (1) Tank manifold kit $20 Like I said, I understand if he's backed up...just want to know I'm in the que. Thanks!
  5. I recently sent Zoeller an email (as directed on his website) with the list of things I wanted to buy to fit out my HT forge. I didn't hear back so I called the number on the website and the automatic voice said the voicemail box was full. I sent the email last week...should I just keep waiting as he is backlogged or search for another supplier? I don't want to be impatiant but don't want to waste a month if he is out of business. Thanks!
  6. Do you think a 3/4" burner is enough for a 55 gallon HT forge? I am looking at the Zoeller burner...
  7. Jesus: Is the pipe in your forge (used to hold the blade) closed on the far end? Everyone: Is Rutland castable as good as Satanite for lining the forge? Thanks!
  8. Anyone have any experience or feedback on these? I am thinking about one and, at this point, it makes more sense for me to buy rather than build...I think Meyer Machine Tool
  9. BRIAN - When you say "Mine is 55 gal drum with a 1" T-Rex style burner at the bottom. The burner is more than sufficient. When you say bottom, how do you mean? I am getting ready to build one with a metal 55 gallon drum, 1" of insullation, satanite lining and a 1" burner...with probably two internal supports. I am thinking about making it on apivot so the blades can ahng while heating but pivot to extract when required. How think should the Satanite be?
  10. When I was married in the base chapel after being commissioned, swords were not allowed in houses of worship...they were stacked outside to be reclaimed for the arch we walked through afterwards...
  11. Thanks everyone...good stuff! DAVE - My favorite Jayne quote: "Firefly: Heart of Gold (#1.12)" (2003) Jayne: Don't much see the benefit in gettin' involved in stranger's troubles without a up-front price negotiated. Shepherd Book: These people need assistance. The benefit wouldn't necessarily be for you. Jayne: That's what I'm sayin'. Zoë: No one's gonna force you to go, Jayne. As has been stated, this job is strickly speculative. Jayne: Good. Don't know these folks, don't much care to. Mal: They're whores. Jayne: I'm in.
  12. Anyone know of: (1) A supplier for hard solder and the related stuff such as flux, etc? (2) Any good books or articles on hard soldering? I am making a sword and want to make a metal top and bottom for the sheath. I have the book "The Master Bladesmith" but am looking for a little more detail and wher eto hget the materials. Thanks!
  13. Thanks guys! Stewart - I just joined that forum but can't find the info you mentioned...where should I look? Thanks again!
  14. Great thread! What do you use as blades supports inside the heat treater? I would think metal would either droop after time oor create hotspots on the blade (since the support is already to temp and in physical contact)...
  15. I am looking for a Ricasso filing jig...I 'd rather buy this than try to make one. Anyone know of someone who has or makes these? To make sure I am calling it the right thing - this is the jig that clamps on to the knife and has a hardened steel surface so you cane file the ricasso stratight and even. Thanks!
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