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About Scott.Rapp

  • Birthday 06/22/1987

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    Oscoda, Michigan

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  1. HAHA! Actually, this blade cracked in two places - I found another crack later on. But six ... ouch. I'm working on polishing this one I did last night - I hate doing the first coat - it seems to be the hardest one to do. After the steel is good and flat from the first hand sanding (I start at 220) then the rest go really fast, it seems. /sigh. Another 5 or 6 hours or so of sanding.
  2. That helps a lot! Thanks so much for your input. Hmm - what do you mean by crowned, and how would I do that? Is there a benefit in using 4" wheels instead of 2" wheels for the platen? Ok... this is starting to make sense to me. I'm finally seeing how this thing is built. Out of curiosity ... I was thinking about getting the 4 step drive wheels... I finally understand how they are done with the belt, but my question is ... if I made the base of the motor movable ... wouldn't I be able to put that belt on in any combination of the 2,3,4,5" sizes? That would yield a lot more than 5
  3. Hey Matt, that looks awesome. Would you mind pointing out to me exactly what your ordered from sunray? I found them online - however, I'm still pretty stupid when it comes to what exactly I'm looking for in the wheels and what not... Thanks
  4. On a much happier note - I quench another blade tonight. This one doesn't appear to have any cracks. It's a different shape than the one yesterday, but oh well. I have one similar to yesterdays in the making. Gonna try it again. I did the same things I did last time, but I left the edge a lot thicker. It was pretty thin on the last one. This one was prolly about 3/32-1/8" So, it's in the oven right now at about 350. Gonna go through 2 cycles, then I'll polish it up while I'm at the office tomorrow. Gotta love Wednesdays... always slow (darn... i think i might've just jinxed my
  5. Hmm... maybe I should just buy one, eh? That's gonna take me awhile Have to hope my little craftsman lasts long enough, hah
  6. Hmm .. well ... I was trying to find a way to figure the cost of materials. I know I can get a decent motor on ebay pretty cheap, and I think the biggest cost would be the steel for it. I have a good bit of free time on my hands, being single. I don't mind putting a lot of time into building it, either. Doesn't really look like it would take more than a couple days if I had the part. Add in that I'd only have about $500 to work with ... buying one from beaumont would save me a lot of time - but it would be double the price, if I can squeeze it out of $500 somehow. I also just fou
  7. That is what I was thinking I'd do this next time. I use satanite too, and it does seem to stay pretty tight ... but during the final heat, after 3 cycles, it decided to start peeling off. Oh well - lesson learned. Normalize 3 times, air cool, clay it up, heat it up, quench it. I really need to get myself a decent magnet ... I keep having to go by the colors, because I have no magnets, lol.
  8. Hey! I'm looking to find places where I can buy the steel required to build this grinder. http://www.dfoggknives.com/PDF/GrinderPlans.pdf Is there anyone out there that would have the stuff that they would be willing to sell to me? Or maybe someone knows a good place to go to get stuff like that? I'm kinda out in the middle of nowhere, so there really are no shops in my area. Thanks for your help!
  9. It was 120 grit - and no, I didn't. I actually just found that advice a few minutes ago. Hehe, live and learn, eh? I'll have to do that on the next one. Hey - question. Where do you guys get wire for wrapping the blade to keep the clay on it? Mine was trying to fall off on me during my normalization cycles.
  10. eh, I'm not too upset. Thankfully, I hadn't put a lot of work (besides the hammering) into it. The first blade I made I put a good 3-4 days into it before I quenched ... I decided that was too much work, since I had to do a lot of it again (darn scale!) After that one broke, I forged two more before I decided to quit for the night. And I forged some nickel silver while I was waiting for the steel to heat. I'm really starting to understand the heat colors and stuff ... I've been forging WAY too hot. I've easily been forging at 2000 or better. I found that in the sun, in order for
  11. This evening at 8:30 PM EST, a 2 day old blade died in the quench. It was a fun blade, that loved candlelight dinners and walks on the beach. It had much promise, but alas this promise was cut short and destroyed in an instant by a hairline fracture. *bows head silently* Ok, ok ... I know... that was rather cheesy. Oh well, it was a lame attempt at humor Here is a picture of the poor thing. On a happy note, it was my first time ever grinding in bevels Don't know if you can seem em very good in the picture, but I'm happy with my first.
  12. mind reporting back to us about your testing? I'd be curious to see some hard data on it
  13. Care to share a better way to check temperature in the forge and everything? I was looking at perhaps getting a thermocouple type thing ... but I couldn't find much in the way of that. Anyone have setups that are more accurate, or is the IR reader gonna be about the cheapest to go to get a somewhat accurate reading?
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