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Tony Coiro

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About Tony Coiro

  • Birthday 06/02/1989

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    South Bend, Indiana

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  1. 1,470F? Well no wonder. I was probably closer to 2,000F. (Mistake #??) Live and learn I guess. I think my new goal is to make as many of the beginner mistakes as I can on this knife and finish it for the story.
  2. Well crap. Looking back, I made a variety of newbie mistakes. My goal with this project was a hamon and since this is my second knife (my first was done 4 years ago), I wanted to learn/relearn as much as possible. Hammer control, grinding, polishing all got far better. I must've tried 6 times various ways to get a differential heat treat, each time knife getting a bit thinner. Kept trying to get it to work anyway (mistake #1), warpage along the edge became a problem (likely didn't normalize enough, mistake #2), went for the water quench (cuz I was idiotically pursuing the hamon, mistake #3) th
  3. Attempted two hamons this evening, neither successful. The first was the clayed version and the second was with an edge quench, normalizing before both. After both, I sanded with 60, 120, 220, 320, 400 and then 600 grit, followed by a polishing compound. While it made the blade look good, there was no noticeable hamon. My first thought was I didn't quench it with the blade at a high enough temperature. My other thought was after talking to a friend of mine in material science, I probably only had the blade non-magnetic for between 60 seconds and two minutes. Do I need it to soak at temperature
  4. So the clay has dried and I am ready to heat treat the W2. I've spent the past hour reading about the process and it appears W2 is a water quench steel but only for materials much thicker than knives. At this moment, the oil quench is the plan. I haven't yet seen it described as more than just 'oil'. Any recommendations as to what kind of oil to use? I've attached a picture of the clayed blade, although it has had 36 hours to dry since the picture was taken.
  5. Well, here's the obligatory status update. The rough grinding is very nearly done, maybe another hour of sandpaper. I also got a good start on the wooden portions, went with some figured asian satinwood. It should look pretty pending I have any skill in woodworking. (I don't.)
  6. Rough forging and grinding done today, I can't tell if I like it. I feel like I want a more gradual taper into the point, it seems to angular of a transition now. When flat grinding, how do you keep a straight "grind line"? I was using a belt sander with 40 grit sandpaper. Better to use files or do I just need to be less bad at this?
  7. Well, a lot of progress today for someone of my skill level. Managed to forge out the round stock into a 9" bar. After a couple hours of trying to beat the metal into submission with manliness, I finally really learned how to let the hammer to the work and things went much faster, better and less tiring. I am hoping to finish the rough forging tomorrow. I have forgotten how much fun forging and forming the point and edges can be. Made plenty of silly mistakes in that area today.
  8. So I'm using 2" diameter, 3/8" cylinders of W2, clearly needs to be beaten down a lot. (Turns out physicist muscles are not blacksmith muscles but it's coming along.) Anyway, I welded a low carbon metal rod onto it as a handle and that served me well for 2 hours now but just fell off, seemed like more from the motion/shock of forging than a bad weld. Is there a better weld material to use than others for this or is handle falling off to be expected when being hit by an amateur?
  9. Yup, I am excited. I am thinking of doing a camping/outdoors tanto. (Which, as an application, is sure to offend everybody.) I absolutely have been fascinated by differential heat treating and four years later, I've become enough of a geek to understand it. I also love the look of tantos. I am starting to draw out what I am thinking and would like to avoid any silly dimension errors now. Proposed, highly subject to change: Blade Length: 6.5" Blade Width: 1.125" Blade Thickness: .125" Tang Length: 2.5" (With .125" width removed on both sides for the copper habaki.) Blade spine is
  10. Hey everyone, looks like I was last active on here on the order of years ago. I got lost in electric vehicles, alternative energy and other nerdy stuff which has strangely led me right back here. I just took a job at an alternative energy startup in Johannesburg, South Africa and the majority of the solar installations will be very remote. Since I am blissfully unemployed for the next ten days, have a couple pieces of W2 left and my forge, tools and anvil sitting in the garage, it's time to make a new knife. (I am too excited to even remember I still have no idea what I am doing.) I'll keep yo
  11. Looks great. I laughed when I saw the title of this thread since I just got back in from having to use an ax to crack/loosen/remove ice (no exaggeration) 4-6 inches deep from my driveway.
  12. Haha, I can relate to this, I saw the first sheath I made awhile back and wondered if I had been drunk, sleep-deprived or blindfolded (or all three) when I made it.
  13. I know exactly how you feel about the semester being almost over and wanting to try a tanto. I was about ready to start a similar thread.
  14. Looks live I was view #1 on the first video. Looked pretty good. Newbie question: Does forging with the hammer and anvil wet really reduce iron-oxide on the surface? Or is there another reason for it?
  15. This is what I thought as well. I believe it is mostly Fe3O4, which is black rust or magnetite.
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