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Sade McCraw

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About Sade McCraw

  • Birthday 10/18/1969

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Interests
    Traditional blade smithing, Japanese blades. Learning more every day
  1. I think I'm following whay your saying. Yes, your anvil helps you along by doing to the other side what your doing with your hammer. However, what the anvil really doesn'nt do is put the evenness in that you need. The evenness that helps make both sides exactly the same, helps you from having your blade warp on you during heat treatment Even though it may be more difficult for you to work one side than the other, practicing to hit both sides the exact same way and number of sides is going to help you and provide you with a superior blade. I hope that this helps some.
  2. Hey all, just wanted you to know that if anyone wanted additional info or pictures on this knife I would definitely do everything I could to accomidate, as well I am open to some price negotiations and discussion in that regard. Thanks a lot.
  3. Sade McCraw


    Hi Marco, I like your hawks a great deal, it's a neat style you went with,maybe another time you can fuller the hammer head and draw it out to a spike, or upset the blade, to increase the cutting edge and perhaps form a beard. I like the hole for the handle a lot, it looks like a nice clean oval hole. Did you make the drift yourself? If not I'd like to know where you got it - all I can seem to find is the tear drop style. Anyway - great job and keep up the good forging.
  4. Hello everyone, I have a camp knife that is forged out of 5160 leaf spring, differentially heat treated, with African Blackwood handle and nickle silver ferrule and buttcap. Blade is 7 1/2 in. and hand finished, handle is 5 in. I'm asking $200 plus shipping for it, if interested please give me a call or e-mail me. 520-312-4048, sadejm@hotmail.com. Thank you.
  5. O.K., sounds good, seems like it's just the stuff I'm looking for. Thank you very much.
  6. Hello Bill, thanks a lot, that's great. Is Waterlox a brand name?
  7. Hello all, I was wondering if there would be a kind and generous soul, or maybe even several souls who would be willing to share a recipe for finishing a wooden knife handle. I'm working with a piece of Bocote and it definitely seems to be the kind of wood that could use a sealer and finish. I also just completed a camp knife with an African blackwood handle. Now it doesn't seem to need anything, but I just want to make sure. Thank you very much. I just realized that I placed this topic under the wrong category, please forgive me, and thank you for your patience.
  8. A simple quench test will tell you a lot, after it's quenched put it in a vise and hit it with a hammer, if it breaks like glass it's high carbon.
  9. Thank you az mike. What part of the desert do you call home?
  10. It's funny that you happen to mention that, I have the piece sitting in vinegar right now and it doesn't seem to be eaten' away. Now that you bring it to my attention I can now see your right, it does have a slag like layer that can be chipped off rather easily. Thanks again.
  11. Well, that worked just as described. I threw a chunk that I had forged down into a little 4"x3" block back into the forge and brought it up to yellow and lightly reforged it, it looks great now. I've got some bigger pieces that I'll flux and reforge later. Thanks for all the help.
  12. That's excellent. Thank you, the shot glass is what I have now, it is anchor chain. I'm really glad to know that I can turn this into a good looking guard. Thank you very much.
  13. Thank you for the replies gentlemen, this is what I was afraid of, I clearly have forged it down using not nearly enough heat, guess I'll have to start over. I have pretty good wrought I got from Ellis, I was forging it down to make fittings with, it didn't fall apart on me, but the forging temp must have been too low because I ended up with pieces that had little hairline cracks in it. When I ground it into little square pieces I found the "wood grain" like cracks went all the way through. Sorry I don't have a way of adding a picture yet. Thanks again. By the way is it possible to fix the
  14. Hello. Long time reader, first time poster. Have seen a lot of great information pass through this board, and was hoping someone might be able to give me some help with a problem I've been having. I've been forging for some time now, but have recently introduced myself to wrought iron and have some questions about working with it. For example, what forging temps should I be using? The piece that I have forged down gave an appearance similar to wood, with a grain and small hairline cracks, and that's after grinding of course. Is this normal, or should I be expecting a smooth, polishable s
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