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RedNeckLeftie

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Everything posted by RedNeckLeftie

  1. Beau, Thanks for posting this. I thought seriously about doing it myself for the last couple of weeks, but "chickened out." Joined kniferights.org and wrote my legislators/senators. Though I may dabble in fixed blades in my spare time as a hobby, I still carry production one-hand opening folders (2-4) on a daily basis. Hope to one day carry a one-hand opening folder I made myself Thanks,
  2. Wow, just frakkin' wow! I've not seen closer pics than that even on the forums, let alone the "real world." Thank you! I will keep you and your daughter in my prayers/thoughts. Now, if I could just get the local dealers to quit charging a "market adjustment," I could go to town on one these bad boys...hopefully the dealers in your area aren't pulling the same stunt. Thanks,
  3. Seriously hot here in Texas. As one of my friends/coworkers has stated, "We live in a perpetual drought, punctuated by occasional floods." We've seen most of June above 100F, and only got relief Tues. and Wed. I envy you Tox, I'd almost kill for 60's... At least I wouldn't confuse where the waterstone water ended with where my sweat began after only 10 mins in the garage...
  4. Durn it, Jerry, Sorry to hear about your eye issues. I Hope and pray all works out for you in the end. For me, I wear contacts/glasses (near-sighted), but I find that I can see much more details (scratches, dings) with my bare eyes. To mesh with your celt/mic spirit, my daily driver is a V8 RWD F-Body--hoping to upgrade to a 2010 Camaro SS/RS. I'll need more than a "carbon baillout!" Best Regards,
  5. It's sad they waste so much time on MJ, when Farrah Fawcett was SO MUCH more interesting...and HAWT!! I remember one of my best friends bringing "that" poster of her to middle school...wow
  6. Talk about "German efficiency"! I'd hate for John to end up in the billet, hope you move fast enough This will be a thread to watch, for sure.
  7. Hi Kevin, You're off to a great start, especially considering you got the turn-back to work (I have yet to do this successfully). One way I have found to set off the "hamon," at least on a western blade is to etch after polishing to #1000 as John suggested, then polish with Flitz. After that, degrease the blade with denatured alcohol, then single-stroke the blade with your used pieces of #1000. Then proceed with fresh #1500, #2000, maybe even #2500. This will leave you with a nice, mirror blade surface and a whitish hardening line (the "hamon"). Thanks,
  8. I like the look of this beast, another O-kissaki, that sounds quite nice. Looking forward to more pics, esp. the hamon.
  9. Amen, brother! I am still screwing-up the whole package, after 2-4 years...
  10. ...As long as you didn't cut yourself...Cool, another dry-shaver...Did you do the bevels/edges on belts or stones? Thanks,
  11. Just checking, Aldo, did you get my email (from 4/23/09) from "hephaestus" for 50lbs? Thanks,
  12. At least for "sword" blades (kats, waks, and tanto) I believe the smith generally would carve the grooves (bo-hi, soe-bi, etc.) and any special characters or figures (horimono). Then the blade is sent out for polish. After returning polished, the smith inspects it. If it is good, the smith will put in the identifying file marks (yasurime) and signature/date on the nakago. From what I remember reading somewhere, the file marks are really done with a device more resembling a saw, but this westerner just uses a 2nd cut file. I am not aware of any other kind of file work to be done. Someone else will have to jump in about other blade types (kozuka, food prep...) Hope this helps,
  13. Ariel, I always love seeing your work, you are a real artist with the steel. I really like how the blade twists into the cable-bolster and rope handle. Beautiful!
  14. Nice dag, Jake. What's the steel? Any pics of the hardening line on the "shy" edge?
  15. That's a neat little blade there. I like the whole sliced-bacon-and-blade pic--really rams it home!
  16. John, That's a darn fine-lookin' blade there! I likes it Sorry, can't help with the yokote part of it, but maybe I can advance the conversation: I am not sure I understand you; what part of getting the yokote down and clean are you referring to? Foundation grind/polish or finish? Actual yokote or the whole boshi? Thanks,
  17. As you have no doubt found, the other reason for natural stones, which has been "evaded" thus far, is matching the steel to the stone. Newer, harder steels prefer a softer stone to work them into submission. Older, or softer steels, ("can" -hagane, "scrap" -hagane, tamahagane) will prefer to be worked with harder stones. Even with the same steel, different heat treating can "desire" a different type of stone. The Al2O3 stones will be softer and burn faster. The ceramic stones will be harder, but generally last a lot longer. I used to use a Shapton Pro 2000, but quit using it with my Japanese-style stuff when I realized it was overkill before the hazuya phase. Thanks,
  18. +1. I got 5lbs from Darren/Kathryn, then got 20lbs as my stock started dwindling. Great people, great resource! Thanks,
  19. You can call me Lefty, Red, or Brian, I'll answer just the same Like you I bought my 1050 when I knew just barely enough to be dangerous. As long as you normalize it 2-3 times, you should be good to go. For the first "normalizing" I'd give it a bit of a longer-than-normal soak at temp, so all those carbon spheroids get good and spread-out--if you're only grinding. Edit--I only had problems with the spheroidization because I'm a "grinder." I assume you're forging, especially with 5/16" stock, you'll have no problems. The first forging heat will clean the carbon slate, so to speak.
  20. Crap! Time to burn down the garage and start over... Your stuff makes mine look like a school kid's guess-timate! Is that silver inlaid in the handle? Thanks,
  21. OMG, the Orange Norton Blaze belts from Tru-Grit on my Delta 1x42" will totally suck steel off a bar (60-80grit, 1050 & 1060)! I mean, I get a pile of steel "pubic hair" on the ground after grinding with these! Thanks,
  22. Hi Joe, Here's one I can deal with: "Room Temp" water (> 66F) will work just groovy with Admiral 1050. The thing to REALLY, REALLY, be aware of is the initial state of the steel. It took me Jake Cleland's advice + 2 years of blind screwing around to realize that I had spheroidized 1050 from Admiral (AP & O--Annealed, Pickled and Oiled). In the spheroidized state, you seriously need to soak the steel for at least 5 mins (at 1475-1525 F) in order to get an edge into proper austenite--for 1/4" thick stock. You will get carbide banding in the "hardened" edge and otherwise poor hardening if you cut corners/temp/time. (The spheroidized state has all the carbon balled-up in little "balls" of carbon, and takes more time/temp to get it free and dissolved into the steel, prepped for proper hardening.) Having said that, you should be good up to 120F on your quench water. I recently quenched some bulk W2 in water at 110F (not a knife blade), and got decent hardening results with no cracking. If you get water up around 160-200F, you will massively compromise its ability to cool the steel--it's a "vapor phase" thang... Thanks,
  23. Yeah, my brother has carved some stuff out of basswood--I suspect you'll like it. You can almost carve it with a dull butter knife . Like balsa, but not as light-weight and "airy."
  24. Got my steel today (okay, Friday--it's still Fri. night to me), it all arrived safe and sound. Looks great, I'm surprised how reasonably even (flat) each bar is. Gotta get my next two "projects" out of the way so I can start playin' with it... Thanks Don and Michael!
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