Jump to content

Donald Babcock

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

    178
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Donald Babcock

  • Birthday 04/23/1981

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bangor Maine, USA
  • Interests
    blacksmithing, bladesmithing, Japanese Swords, Mixed Martial Arts, computer gaming

Recent Profile Visitors

367 profile views
  1. Nice find. 122 pounds is a good size as you can move it around easily enough as you figure out how your shop should be set up.
  2. Unless there are cracks or delamination that is a steal for that price. Might just be that the seller doesn't know what he has. Personnaly if that is the case then I would inform the seller of this and see if they wanted a more accurate price for what it is worth. Kinda the "due unto others" philosiphy. I know that if I was selling something for way under what it should sell for (because I didn't know what it should be worth) I would want to know. And based on the buyers honesty I would keep the original asking price.
  3. Not sure on the maker, but 100 lbs would be a low estamate on the weight based on the apperant size from the picture. Unless my eyes are lying to me that looks close in size to one that I've worked on at a living history place and that one weighs in at almost 200 pounds. Check on it and see if it has the weight markings on it. It will be 3 numbers, something like 1 1 15. The first marking is the "hundred weight" which is 112 pounds, the next number is quarter hundred weight or 28 pounds, then the third number is the odd weight (what ever is left over that is less then the quarter hundred weight). So for the markings in my example it would be 112+28+15 = 155 pounds. I'm not sure how much the price is but from what I've seen while looking in my area is that an anvil will run around $1-$3 per pound based on condition.
  4. Doug, you just broke my brain! Not really sure what all that means. But let me take a stab at it. The end design will have 4 wheels (for the flat platten attachement) with the motor spindle directly connected to the 4 inch drive wheel. Then there will be a 3.5 inch tracking/tension wheel, and two 2 inch idler wheels in the platen. Now with your explanation above it sounds like the motor and the grinder are not directly connected (thinking like a step pulley setup connecting the two drive shafts). In my case the main change would be the half size drive wheel (going from 8 inches to 4 inches) so this would take the belt speed from 3600 feet per minute to 1800 feet per second. Is that correct or do I need to also factor in the other wheels as well?
  5. Ok, first thing is first. I'm trying to figure some basics out before getting to deep into the planning phases. The main thing I need help with is as follows (per the manual): The motor speed is 1725 rpm,arbor size 5/8 inch with a speed of 1750 rpm, and it comes standard with an 8 inch contact/drive wheel, which gives a belt speed of 3600 feet per minute. I'm completly stumped on how to figure out what the belt speed would be with swapping out the 8 inch drive wheel with a standard 4 inch drive wheel. Would the speed be faster or slower with the smaller wheel? And if anybody knows how to figure out what the speed would be that would be great as well. Any help would be appreciated.
  6. I remember watching that show on tv with my wife. Ater about 15-20 minutes of not saying anything (just sitting there stewing) I paused the tv and had to walk away. My wife asked me why I paused it and I stated that it was utter crap. After about 5 minutes I sat back down and watched the rest of it and just couldn't help but laugh that this was being passed of as fact.
  7. Yup, lived in maine my whole life (so far). Man, those are some ugly photos. Gotta get the updated pics up to show the work that I did after I posted this. Looks better, but still haven't finished it yet.
  8. WOW, 138 views and not one comment. I take that to mean that everyone that has seen these has been speechless. On a serious note, I did kinda expect at least something for comments. Any comments/critisisms are encouraged. I can't fix things that I'm doing if I don't get corrective feedback. I know some one must have an opinion on them either good, bad, or indifferant.
  9. Very nice as always. Very nice indeed.
  10. This is a drop point with red/black dymondwood handle. Made from 1080, 3/16 thick at spine, 1 1/4 wide, whith brass pins and kydex sheath w/intergral belt loop. Price is $75.00.
  11. This is a drop point with red/black/tan dymondwood handle. Made from 1080, 3/16 thick at spine, 1 1/4 wide, whith brass pins and kydex sheath w/intergral belt loop. Price is $75.00.
  12. This is a clip point with blue/silver dymondwood handle. Made from 1080, 3/16 thick at spine, 1 1/4 wide, whith brass pins and kydex sheath w/intergral belt loop. Price is $75.00.
  13. This is a clip point with brown/black/tan dymondwood handle. Made from 1080, 3/16 thick at spine, 1 1/4 wide, whith brass pins and kydex sheath w/intergral belt loop. Price is $75.00.
  14. Here is my latest 4 knives. Still doing stock removal as I don't have anyplace for my forge yet. 2 clip points and 2 drop points. All with kydex sheaths. Each measures roughly 8 inches OAL, 3 3/4 to 4 inches of blade. Each done from 1080. 3/16 inch at spine and 2/16th inch at tip for drop points and 1/16th at tip for clip points. Triple normalized with decreasing heats (1400, 1350, and finally 1300). Brought to 1450 and quenched in 100 degree corn oil. Tempered for 3 hours at 475. Handles are dymondwood, pins are brass. Any comments are welcome. I'll be posting these in the for sale section soon.
×
×
  • Create New...